Well, since I guess I am the resident curmudgeon, I'll offer my observations.
The first drawing is the only one I would go with. It is a pretty good starter drawing. Handle to blade ratio looks good.
The others all have issues.
There are a few small things that should be changed, as noted by Clint.
1) The Corby bolts on the ends should be moved in a little. Maybe 1/4".
2) The finger groove ( It is not really a choil) is a bit too small. Have it start where it is now, but curve back about an inch total. Don't make it much or any deeper ... just longer toward the rear. See the note below on how I shape them.
3) The choil ( this is the right word here) at the end of the sharpened edge should be bisected by the plunge. That means the plunge should end at the exact top of the semi-circular choil. You have it just behind that spot, and the edge ends in a sharp angle.
4) The ricasso is a bit small, but not overly so. I would start with it about 1/8" wider. It tends to get smaller as you file and sand.
The only other shape advice I will make is that when shaping the spine, try and make the transitions from butt to spine a smooth curve with no actual angle to it. As drawn, it has a sudden drop toward the butt. The drop toward the tip can be left as drawn, or smoothed down in a curve. This is more of a matter of personal taste. Start with the tip as drawn and see where it ends.
TIP:
When cutting out the blank and doing the profile, NEVER cut the choil or the finger groove ... or any other decorative item ... out in the profiling step. Yu just want the basic outline with no dips and features. This will allow you to adjust the flow of the knife ( how the curves work together) and once that is done, you can start the bevels. Once the bevels are done, add the finger groove. The very last thing added is the choil. The edge length and plunge line may get moved quite a bit in making the bevels. If you set the choil too soon, it almost surely won't be where you want it when you are done. I don't make it until after HT and final bevel sanding. I use a small chain saw sharpening cylinder burr in a Dremel to quickly make the little semi-circle exactly where I want it in the hard steel. Go slow so you don't burn the steel.
You listed 52100 and AEB-L as the steel choices, Both will make good knives with proper HT. I would assume you are planning on sending out the HT.
Back to the handle bottom ( belly) for a moment. I don't usually put a dedicated finger groove on a hunter style knife. This shape I like is called a palm swell, and fits most any hand perfect. A finger groove may not fit all hands the same. Also, a palm swell is far easier to get rounded into the handle sides evenly.
The way I shape them is usually as a smooth in-out curve to make a small belly. It does not need to be much, and looks and feels best when it is very slight. Start where you have the finger groove now. Curve in a little ways, and then curve out toward the middle of the belly, then back in a bit and then back out to the butt. The only change from how you have it drawn now is the front curve is longer and smoothly becomes the swell.
