Possible to overtighten screws for the scales on rc5?

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Oct 23, 2010
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So I took the scales off my 5 to clean the mud and gunk off, then I put the scales back on and I think I might have tightened them down too hard?


I heard a few clicks like maybe the micarta cracked, but I don't know. If I strip out the screws or break a scale will esee sell me those parts individually?
 
So you took 'em off anyway huh? Well, you should be fine. It might just have been the screw head settling in the micarta. You would be covered under warranty, so I wouldn't sweat it. The scales are fitted to each blank, so I don't think you could get a new single scale. They'd most likely send you a new knife.
 
So you took 'em off anyway huh? Well, you should be fine. It might just have been the screw head settling in the micarta. You would be covered under warranty, so I wouldn't sweat it. The scales are fitted to each blank, so I don't think you could get a new single scale. They'd most likely send you a new knife.

Yeah I ended up taking them off since they were so grimy. While they were off I rubbed mineral oil on the handle so I won't be worried about running it under water next time.


I hope they don't break since you said they would replace the whole knife. I'd hate to have them send me a whole knew knife over a broken scale. That would be mighty expensive for them. Let's hope I didn't muck them up. :thumbup:
 
So you took 'em off anyway huh? Well, you should be fine. It might just have been the screw head settling in the micarta. You would be covered under warranty, so I wouldn't sweat it. The scales are fitted to each blank, so I don't think you could get a new single scale. They'd most likely send you a new knife.

Send a new knife for breaking a scale? I doubt it. He could send the knfie back and we would fix it though. As a side note, the Micarta most likely didn't break but you did indeed tighten too much if you started hearing squeaking in the threaded bushing, but it is most likely ok. Never tighten that small of a screw that much. :)
 
Send a new knife for breaking a scale? I doubt it. He could send the knfie back and we would fix it though. As a side note, the Micarta most likely didn't break but you did indeed tighten too much if you started hearing squeaking in the threaded bushing, but it is most likely ok. Never tighten that small of a screw that much. :)

Of course I wouldn't expect a new knife for a broken scale. To me that would border on abuse of esees awesome warranty.

And if it wasn't the micarta then I'm all good. If it was those small screws would I be able to order more screws and bushings?
 
If you have a problem with the screws or barrel nut just let us know ;)
 
Send a new knife for breaking a scale? I doubt it. He could send the knfie back and we would fix it though. As a side note, the Micarta most likely didn't break but you did indeed tighten too much if you started hearing squeaking in the threaded bushing, but it is most likely ok. Never tighten that small of a screw that much. :)

Ha! Thanks Jeff. I typed that one in haste. Was a long day.
 
you'd probably round out the hex before you stripped the threads.

someone mentioned a test on YouTube where some guy was beating the crap out of a piece of micarta with a sledge hammer. i can't find it, but evidently it took a LOT of abuse.

perhaps what you heard was a piece of grit between the scales and the tang getting crushed.

i haven't bothered t o pull the scales off my 4, so i don't know just what size they are. but most people tend to overtighten small fasteners and under tighten large ones. a 5mm or 10-32 screw gets 69 INCH pounds of torque in most applications. i've seen some people miss the INCH pounds part and use FOOT pounds and strip bolts in engine blocks. that's always fun!

69 inch pounds of torque is 5.75 foot pounds, and you won't find a torque wrench that's calibrated that low in foot pounds. most TQ wrenches are less accurate at their upper and lower ends of the scale, so you want to be worging in the middle of it.
 
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Thanks fixer. So what's an appropriate tightness?

Should I snug it up, then tighten another quarter turn? I just don't want any of those little screws backing out and getting lost in the woods.
 
~~ you won't find a torque wrench that's calibrated that low in foot pounds. most TQ wrenches are less accurate at their upper and lower ends of the scale, so you want to be working in the middle of it.
Actually you can get one, but unless you have a super precision application to use it on... it just ain't worth it. $$$$ :D
[IMO, knife handle screws don't qualify as super precision... ;) ..]

http://www.flexibleassembly.com/Products/Torque-Wrench

One of the less expensive models... :eek: :eek: :eek: ;)
http://www.flexibleassembly.com/Products/Dial-Indicating-Torque-Wrenches/751LDIN
 
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Best thing I can say on this is just use common sense and tighten them with the wrench but don't tighten them so much that the Allen wrench is about to torque sideways. You can also apply some loctite to the threads. Not trying to be a smartass but it's all relative. If you put a big enough cheater bar on a lug wrench then you can strip the lug bolts off your wheel. If you don't have a "feel" for tightening a screw then I'm not sure how to teach you outside of telling you to buy a precision torque wrench, or just loctite them and not worry about removing them anymore.
 
Great advice from Jeff :thumbup:

I take all my bolted/screwed handles apart , apply Loc-tite , tighten the fastener on with 2 allen keys of the same size. One to hold the right side looking from the top of the knife ( That screw is usually holding the barrel nut tight) and the other side I tighten on with care. I snug them up , and then maybe another 1/8 to 1/4 turn max. I've done this with my Beckers also.

I don't plan to take my knives apart afterwards. I'm not worried about rust under the handle either. It's coated and won't really see any wear that exposes bare metal . After that , I just use 'em hard :)
 
Locktite and do not continue tightening once the screw stops turning. If you do by chance strip a crew or barrel nut out drop me an email at mike@eseeknives.com . And it will be a screw or nut-- not the micarta. Mike
 
Actually you can get one, but unless you have a super precision application to use it on... it just ain't worth it. $$$$ :D
[IMO, knife handle screws don't qualify as super precision... ;) ..]

yeah... i should have said "you won't usually find one" and didn't mean it as "you'll never find one".

i work on motorcycles (motors and other stuff) with $20 clicker torque wrenches from Harbor Freight. and they seem to do a reasonable job and there was some test where they actually compared favorably with some high end stuff.

the 1/4" inch pound wrench actually has a small enough head to fit in some spaces i need to ti, and a few others don't.

the price works for weekend warriors and shade tree mechanics who want the tool to do the gob and don't get too wrapped up in the price or the name.

if i were a wrenching for a living, i'd consider buying some digital torque wrenches. but the HF cheapies do a reasonable job and seem to do it betterthan whatever some manufactures use at the factory... because i've found some stuff that's been woy over or under spec.
 
i've seen some people miss the INCH pounds part and use FOOT pounds and strip bolts in engine blocks. that's always fun!
You said that right !! :D
yeah... i should have said "you won't usually find one" and didn't mean it as "you'll never find one".

i work on motorcycles (motors and other stuff) with $20 clicker torque wrenches from Harbor Freight. and they seem to do a reasonable job and there was some test where they actually compared favorably with some high end stuff.

the 1/4" inch pound wrench actually has a small enough head to fit in some spaces i need to ti, and a few others don't.

the price works for weekend warriors and shade tree mechanics who want the tool to do the gob and don't get too wrapped up in the price or the name.

if i were a wrenching for a living, I'd consider buying some digital torque wrenches. but the HF cheapies do a reasonable job and seem to do it better than whatever some manufactures use at the factory... because I've found some stuff that's been way over or under spec.
I know, I totally agree with what you say.

I was just shocked when I saw the prices of some of those..... :eek:

I am still using my old CRAFTSMAN beam type 3/8" and 1/2" drive.... :D
 
Thanks fixer. So what's an appropriate tightness?

Should I snug it up, then tighten another quarter turn? I just don't want any of those little screws backing out and getting lost in the woods.

i'd say "snug, plus a smidge". you shouldn't need any extra long wrenches or cheater bars. an eight to a quarter turn should be fine, but i've never had to remove or replace the scales on my 4.the onle lonely ESEE i have at this point, until i get my orange Izulas and the add on scales. i'm just basing this on all the other screws of similar size i've turned over the years... and while i've been told i have one lose, i try not to leave 'em loose or lose any. :rolleyes:

blue loctite is your friend and will keep them from coming loose even if you're beating on the knife by chopping at stuff or batoning it. it keeps single cylinder "thumper" motorcycles from losing parts. (usually)

some people use fingernail polish on the threads, and that's fine in a pinch, but probably a good idea if you don't let the wife and/or GF find out that you used it... and you sure don't want to spill it! just imagine trying to explain it if it's not HER shade! :eek:
 
Thanks guys! I'm probably fine since they are holding tight. Since y'all said it's ok just to run the whole knife under water then I guess I'm never going to take the scales off again.

I'll just wash the scaled while on the knife and hope that none of the screws or handle rusts. If it does - then I can take care of it. Thanks again and I'll be sure not to overtighten any screws on my other esees.
 
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