Post Anvil Questions

Joined
Mar 16, 2021
Messages
9
Hi everyone
Looking at some h13, s7 and a 136 lb RR
Track at 36" long.
Any opinions on which might be a good start.
I would like to make a 6" knife with a hardwood handle.
Thanks in advance
 
You don't need an anvil.
Do your first with stock removal, buy fully annealed steel and use files and abrasive paper.

Look in the stickies, some are old, but there's enough there to get you through.
 
Stock removal is a common place to start for a lot of us, but I understand the desire to bash on hot steel. If that's what you're set on, a bit of railroad rail will do you to start. It's not ideal, but it does work. My first purchased anvil was a 4x4x4 piece of heat treated 4140 with a spike welded on the bottom to drive down into a stump. It has served me very well indeed. I still use it for travelling demos and the like.
 
Your wanting to know about what anvil to make is like a person wanting to go to med school and asking what type of scalpel they should get.

There are a lot more questions before you need the anvil - Forge type, Grinder or files and sandpaper, Blade type, Steel choice, HT method, Tongs/Hammers, etc.

That massive RR track would certainly work as an anvil. 136# at 36" is about the same mass as a 36" piece of 3X4" steel bar. Set vertical it will make a great post anvil. Weld it to a piece of heavy steel plate.

Fill out the rest of your profile. There might be someone near you who can help you get started. What field did you retire from?
 
Thank you all for your advice.
I do want to beat some hot metal on a hard piece of steel.
To weld a piece of heavy steel plate, what type and size to steel plate ?
I would stick weld with some 5/32" 7018, or is 1/8" 7018 a better choice.
I use 5/32" on 1/2" mild steel most of the time. I just enjoy the larger size electrode, and find it easier to manipulate.
I retired from excercise physiology.
I am still active in voluntary animal rescue.
 
Anything that will make a stable base will work. Heck, it could be a wash tub filled with concrete.
3/8" to 1/2" would be plenty thick if using flat plate.

If using a box or tub of cement, weld a 12X12" foot on the RR track to sit in the bottom of the tub/box.

If placing outside, dig a wide hole and set the post with the foot plate in it. Fill with concrete.
 
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Thanks Stacy,
Understood, thanks for your advice.
I am excited to start the process of making or forging my first knife.
Thanks again !
 
Anything that will make a stable base will work. Heck, it could be an engine block turned upside down.
3/8" to 1/2" would be plenty thick if using flat plate.
An alternative is to weld pieces of 1/2" plate to each foot. 12" square would be fine. Then build a wooden box about 24" wide by 12" deep and long enough to fit the bridge anvil. Set the anvil in it and fill it with concrete. It won't be going anywhere.
Will this work out being kept outdoors ?
What do you mean by the bridge anvil ?
Thank you
 
My Bad!!! I was posting the answer to a different anvil question. I edited my answer.

If placing outside, dig an 18"-24" wide hole and set the post anvil in the center ... then fill with concrete. Place a drywall bucket over the top when not in use.

It will last a long time outdoors if you paint it. A BBQ cover for a smoker is the best method for protecting an outdoor post anvil from the elements. Drop it over the drywall bucket and all.
 
Thank you very much Stacy.
I assume it is to be 12" deep, which would make it about 24.5" high above ground ?
Thank You for your advice.
 
Dig the hole out 12" deep and set a drywall bucket in the hole, Fill the dirt back around the bucket. Pour whatever depth of concrete is needed to get the anvil top where you want it ( say 6") in the bucket. After that cures, set the post in place and fill the bucket to the top with concrete. This will also allow the bucket of concrete and post to be moved in the future.
 
Dig the hole out 12" deep and set a drywall bucket in the hole, Fill the dirt back around the bucket. Pour whatever depth of concrete is needed to get the anvil top where you want it ( say 6") in the bucket. After that cures, set the post in place and fill the bucket to the top with concrete. This will also allow the bucket of concrete and post to be moved in the future.
I was not "allowed" to put the 3" rail anywhere near where my work area is.
My wife said she would just put up a trellis for clematis.
That got me building these two portable post anvil and a leg vice.
I was given some old pieces of steel and a shorter piece of heavy rail track.
Seems to be plenty strong.
I can't seem to load any pics from my iPhone.
Will try again.




This last photo is of a hood I had made 6 years ago with an air pump for stick welding in the shed with windows open and hood air pump going strong. Sucks up most of the fumes and my respirator keeps me safe from any fumes that do not get exhausted.
 
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