Practical Differences in Quality Steel Types?

C

Chipperman

Joined
Jan 4, 2003
Messages
77
We all know there is a world of difference between a quality steel blade, and one that you pay $5 from the flea market.

But how much real world difference is there between different steel types for good quality EDC knives?

You've got ATS-34/154CM, S30V, 440C, D2, etc.

If you were handed two knives that were completely identical except for the blade composition (say one was 154CM and the other was S30V), how much difference would there be between them?
 
I usually look at three main areas: edge retention, stain resistance, toughness.

The steels you listed are similar. They have similar stain resistance, are about equally as tough, and all have good edge retention. D2 and S30V would hold an edge longer than 154CM/ATS34 and 440C. Whether you noticed it or not depends on how much you pay attention. It might not be a noticable difference, or it might be. It depends on the user.

I have noticed a difference in edge retention between D2/S30V and 440C. Though there are many variables. Heat treat, what exactly I had to cut that week, how I performed my cuts etc...

But again, you are listed similar steels. Compare D2 to A2 and the difference is noticable in all but the lightest tasks. D2 will hold an edge noticable longer in normal cutting, and A2 will take noticable less edge deformation/damage during heavy use such as cutting metal banding, or doing heavy chopping. Rust may not be seen on either steel for most people, but in some conditions the additional stain resistance of D2 will be noticable.

Compare D2 and L6.... L6 is super tough and rusts easily. D2 will hold an edge much longer but chip more readily.

Etc... etc...

If you are wondering if spending more for S30V or D2 is worth it when you can get 154CM, it depends on what you cut, how much you pay attention to edge retention, and how often you like to sharpen as well as how long you like to spend sharpening. Nothing wrong with 154CM or 440C.

With experience using different steels, most people do develop favorites and preferences. So yes, the differences are noticable. But not just by holding the knife in your hand, or perfoming a few easy cuts.
 
Thanks for the reply. The reason I listed those types is that they are the ones most commonly used by Benchmade. Most of the knives I buy are Benchmade. Staying focused on one brand helps me keep from getting out of control with the buying. ;)

I do 99% of my cutting with one blade, which is ATS-34. I don't have a good comparison between the steels because I'm always using the same one. It seems to hold an edge pretty well. I usually sharpen it about once a month. I have other ones available to me, but I'm trying to keep most of the knives new. (Not that I plan on selling them, it's just the collector in me)
 
Chipperman,

Coming at this from another direction, the extent to which you see a difference in performance between these steels is directly related to how hard you try to bring out the performance differences.

Take, for example, your everyday average person, sharpening all their knives at an obnoxiously thick angle (say, 20 degrees per side for an EDC carry folder). Will that person see a huge difference between the performance of 6A, ATS-34, and M-2? Well, they may see some edge-holding difference based on the wear resistance differences between the steels. This difference may be noticeable, but may not be. People who do this tend to see little difference between steel performance, and probably don't need to spend extra $$$ buying more premium steels.

Now, imagine you have a knife owner who is more interested in performance. And this owner knows that edge strength is important for his particular usage. Since the ATS-34 blade has a stronger edge than the 6A blade, he takes the edge down to 15 degrees per side. M-2 is stronger still, and tougher than ATS-34, so that blade he takes down to 12 degrees per side. Now, suddenly the ATS-34 blade is outperforming the 6A blade by hundreds of percents -- it may take several cuts of the 6A blade to do what it takes only one cut of the thinner ATS-34 blade to make. The M-2 blade performs better still. So now, instead of the previous case where all steel difference was a result of some marginal difference in wear resistance, because this user is smart enough to take advantage of the steels when he sharpens, he sees giant differences in cutting performance, and still probably sees some difference in wear resistance as well.

At the end of the day, knives are usually about separating something into two pieces. To do that, you want the optimal edge geometry. The optimal edge geometry is determined partly how the knifemaker ground the bladeshape, but also partly by how thick (or thin) and how coarse (or fine) you leave the edge. If you leave all your edges the same thickness regardless of steel or usage, you won't see any difference in cutting performance, you'll just see marginal differences in attributes like wear resistance, and the performance of steels will appear to you to be roughly the same, because you've minimized their differences. By contrast, if you approach this as a game to find the best steel for a particular job, pick the steel with the best attributes, and then sharpen to bring out those attributes, you will see a big difference in steel performance, and spending more money on more expensive steels makes a whole lot more sense.

Joe
 
Wow Joe, I learned a lot in those few paragraphs. Thanks for sharing your insights.

Richard
 
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