pre taperd steel?

I have never heard of this offered commercialy but makers who forge do this as a matter of course. It is much more efficient to forge the distal taper than to grind it. This benifit is, no doubt, the origin of your search. You may be able to find a forger to do this for you if that is your interest. Good luck, Fred
 
That's a very interesting link.
I suppose if you're interested you could try it out, it's not too expensive after all.
The only disadvantages I can see (other than the single alloy offered) is that you're kind of limited in the characterof grind you can use, and I'm not sure how you'd fit a slab handle, much less drill perpendicular holes. It'll make for an unusual tang too, if you go that route.
Don't mean to sound too negative ... just a couple things to consider.
 
If grinding the bevels in a steel bar is causing that much trouble, why not just buy pre ground and heat treated blade blanks and just finish them. Kit knives they call them.

Learning to grind bevels and such is part and parcel of being a knifemaker. It takes time to learn properly and if it was that easy, many more people would be doing it.
 
I got a bunch of this stuff about two years ago.It is 420 SS ,which is OK for simple kitchen knives,but not great.I made about thirty kitchen and fillet knives and they were OK.It is no problem to fit the scales to the blade.Just drill the holes in the tang a bit over-sized,glue on one scale,drill the rivet hole a bit undersized,glue on the other scale,drill both with the correct size drill . I place another piece of the tapered stock (with a 1/2" rivet holes in it) under the handle when drilling the final assembly and it will compensate for the taper in the tang.
PLUS - It was fast and simple to make the knives.It is cheap.
MINUS - If you want a 420SS knife go to K-mart,that is what most $3.00 cutlery is made of.
I never got any more of this material.I got to agree with Mike on this - Learn to grind,then you can use good steel.
Stacy
 
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