Preferred Angle/method for AMS, UPDATE, Pic Heavy

rcb2000

rcb2000

Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
3,747
Just got my AMS from Busse,, the more I hold it the more I love it,, can't wait to take it out this weekend and put it through the paces.
It's nice and sharp, but want to thin the edge out a bit since its primary role will be slicing and fine work.
I'm comfortable convexing using a mousepad and sandpaper,, but am also pretty good with th Japanese waterstones.
Just curious about what y'all think or prefer? I feel like convened edges are easier to maintain in the field,,, I carry a strop. But I think I have more control of the edge angle with the stones..
I LOVE this knife,, if I can get it as sharp as my INFIDU, I could see it getting a lot more belt time than that one,, it's really a great size for long hikes.
 
Last edited:
Ok. Rob. The only thing you will need to do to this blade is knock down the shoulder. Take a sharpie and get the whole edge solid colored in. Use your stone to take material off of the area that transitions the flat grind from the top to the cutting edge.

Go slow, and look to see where the marker is coming off to see if you need to change your angle. The factory edges are usually nice and sharp, so I usually go until aaaaalllllllmost all of the color is gone. Slicey. !
 
I prefer a coarse Japanse waterstone for setting a convex bevel on knives, though I have done the sandpaper route in the past and though it can also work I found it less than ideal for my tastes. I would get rid of the factory apex first and re-apex myself on a coarse stone for slicing aggression. Don't bother polishing or stropping beyond this, just make sure you get a nice apex that is free of burrs and you're ready to rock.
 
Good advice, thanks guys. I'm going to start with an atoma 140,, then a 400,, probably stop at a 1000. I'll post before and after pics
 
rcb2000 said:
Good advice, thanks guys. I'm going to start with an atoma 140,, then a 400,, probably stop at a 1000. I'll post before and after pics
Click to expand...

You might try just finishing at 400, it should get you more slicing aggression and edge retention over a higher polish IMO. I can get hair shaving/paper slicing sharpness straight off my 24 grit Nubatama, you don't need a high grit at all to get a knife very sharp actually.

I would try running a 15 degree per side approximately at the apex, you might even be able to go as low as 10 degrees per side or less depending on what you plan on cutting with it. If it ends up too shallow, you can always thicken it up to better suit your cutting tasks and it should be much easier than thinning/lowering it in the first place.
 
Im going to work on it tomorrow,, Ill stop at 400 and see how it does,, a toothy edge may work for what I need it for..
Pics to follow
 
rcb2000 said:
Im going to work on it tomorrow,, Ill stop at 400 and see how it does,, a toothy edge may work for what I need it for..
Pics to follow
Click to expand...

To clear a couple things up that I stated….

The coarser finish would only matter on the apex itself, which should yield ideal edge retention for slicing soft materials. If you are slicing harder materials, a higher grit apex finish may be a better choice.

Also forgot to mention that if you are planning on dropping below a 15 degree per side edge bevel, you will likely need a 15 degree per side (or perhaps slightly higher) micro bevel to avoid an overly weak edge.
 
Ah ok,,,I'll do that. It's really mostly carving, cutting cord, cleaning fish, but really nothing that would be considered hard impact..
 
Man INFI is a dream to sharpen on waterstones! I knocked the shoulder down with the Atoma 140 diamond stone,, then started reprofiling with a 240,,, unfortunately next size up was a 1000,,,but wow is this thing sharp!! It push cuts thin magazine paper like nothing,, and slices toilet paper easily. In addition to that the tip is nice, sharp and pointy,,
wck02b.jpg

125ngvt.jpg

I'll get some better pics this weekend out in the hills..
 
Wow...I have never had a knife so sharp that it could cut a sheet of toilet paper. It always just rips. I need to learn how sharpen better...
 
Ok, so after taking it to a super sharp convex zero edge,, I thought to myself,, that was REALLY easy steel to sharpen,, so by most standards.. it shouldn't hold that edge that long right?? WRONG!!!!
Here is over 100 cuts through cardboard, I would have cut more but ran out..
r0phk3.jpg

Then a stab test through 7 layers,,, no problem and with little effort.. great
2dhslf5.jpg

So now slicing a dozen times through 7 layers of cardboard at a time,, easy
m93t5l.jpg

By this time,, most knives wouldn't even be cutting through anymore,,, I could have kept going no problem.
After all this,, it would push cut thin magazine paper,, but wouldn't shave. 12 strops on each side with green compound,, back to shaving...
Holy crap this steel is great..
 
So now to take it out.. decided to take the kids geocaching. First time wearing it out on the hip in the sheath made for a BR Gunny..
Now you see it, now you don't
33mndpv.jpg
20prafq.jpg

Took a minute and some bushwacking,, do you see it?
2ni485t.jpg

r7uo8h.jpg

While the kids checked out the contents of the cache,, I decided I needed to check the tip strength,, since when I received it it almost had a tip like a strider,, if that makes sense. It was nice and pointy,, so I was curious if it would bend,, or heaven forbid,, snap! NOPE
206yknr.jpg

ws1im0.jpg

Shaving sharp,, no issues,, cutting soft and hard wood is a breeze
28hid1w.jpg
 
Most of the blackberries are all gone,, but now wild Muscadines are out and almost all ripe..
2nj9fkx.jpg

And to finish off,, push cut through my wifes magazine,, sorry honey!
23wthg9.jpg

All and all, I am SUPER impressed with this knife and the steel.. Ill keep it at this convex edge until I have any issues,, then start bringing the edge back to a higher angle..
Thanks Jerry!!!
 
Very nice results there, great pics… :)

I think you could probably go even thinner, perhaps even doubling the width of the edge bevel as ridiculous as that sounds….

[video=youtube;L6DX83w95Oc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6DX83w95Oc L6DX83w95Oc [/video]
 
Thanks man, I appreciate your and Timmys advice and thanks for the video,, I do think I could go lower and get even better performance
 
If you plan to edc, you could always thin the shoulder on all but the last 15-20% of the blade toward the tip. This will allow more sliciness, yet still let you pry and poke a bit without fear of edge/tip deformation.

Nice job man. You sold me an AMS......
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
If you plan to edc, you could always thin the shoulder on all but the last 15-20% of the blade toward the tip. This will allow more sliciness, yet still let you pry and poke a bit without fear of edge/tip deformation.

Nice job man. You sold me an AMS......
Click to expand...
Thank man! I appreciate your advice.
For sure you should get one eventually,, You'd love it, it's really a great blade
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top