Preforming

M

Mr.Wrong

Joined
Aug 5, 2004
Messages
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I hope this is not a dumb question.. I was reading the 50$ Knife Shop book By Wane G. And one of the topics was preforming the forged blade. Mr. G. explaned how to do it and thats all. My question is... Is preforming the forged blade important and whats its special purpose. The reason I ask is that Ive always hammered the edge down; ensuring that I hammered no fold overs into the blade then forge to 80% of the final shape and grind the rest. Besides cheating is the described way bad for the blade?

Thanks for all the help,
PJ
 
Preforming is just one way to counter the natural banana shape that will form when hammering the bevels. It makes it nice so that you dont have to hammer on the edge when forging to keep the spine straight a scwoker is also a good thing to have on hand. I use a piece of scrap wood with a handle to bash the blade into shape when it wants to go bananas. :)
 
Another good way to avoid the banana is to forge in a distal taper as you forge the bevels. It tends to help counteact the curve. I also like to use the barstock or round
stock for a handle, instead of tongs. Every now and then I slam the blade down on the anvil, spine down.
 
Thanks for the reply Mr.Williams. But I still have a question about the hammering on the blade edge what happens to the steel when I do this? And by the way I will certainly try the distal taper and the round stock handle. For the handle can I use rebar since it will be cut off when Im through with the blade?

Thanks,
PJ
 
one way to keep a blade straight is to forge the tip area to shape first, then forge in the bevels to that area. Lay the blade edge up and lightly tap the blade back straight tapping on the unbeveled edge area. Now forge in the bevels from the blade belly to the ricasso,when forming your bevels use the fuller on the back of your hammer as well as the face, run several blows down the center then flip and do the same on the other side, this will thin the steel quickly and cause little curling. Now with a smaller hammer( I use a 1# hammer for this) LIGHTLY tap the spine area from ricasso toward tip. The lighter hammer will cause the steel to curl back down and not move the steel into a distal taper.
You can use any scrap steel you have for a handle, its just there for your benefit of holding and handling, like you said, you will cut it off later with no purpose on the finished blade.

Have fun,

Bill
 
You wont hurt the steel as long as you dont work it too cold...or too hot :). As Bill said, light blows are the key. too many times have I had a great looking blade with one deep hammer mark that ruined the whole thing. Take your time and dont try to set any speed records on forging the blade. Set your forge up so you have a carborizing atmosphere and you wont ruin the blade.
 
you guys are the best I understand now. It was hard to grasp the concept of preforming at first but now I got it. Im glad to know I can ask a question and get an answer :) . I cant wait for this weekend so i can finish my blade and post some pics. :D

Thanks,
pj
 
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