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Preheating quench oil
- Thread starter alexmin
- Start date
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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If the instructions don't call for it,then you don't need to do it.Tough quench is a room temperature quenchant formulated for rapid quenching.It is specifically formulated for 10XX steels.It should not be cold,but does not need to be higher than 100F. 80-100F is a good working range.If you need a bit slower quench,warming it to 130F might help avoid problems.Tough quench is popular with those who use a smaller quench tank.
Stacy
Stacy
I just started using Tough Quench. I'd read some threads that said it should be heated to 125-130 despite its instructions, but I decided to go with the instructions instead (I figured if it works, I can avoid the hassle of heating the quenchant).
I've only done two knives in it so far, but I'm happy with the results. One of the blades I was fairly sure would warp (or even crack), as I had ground it too thin prior to heat treat, but it came out great. I was also worried that at room temp it would form more of a vapor barrier around the hot blade, and wouldn't cool it quickly enough, but the blades are hard. I don't have an RC tester yet, but am getting one and will do some comparisons between heated and unheated then. I'm using O1. If I was using 1095 (which needs a very fast quench) I'd heat the ToughQuench to make it faster.
Edited to add: I believe warming the quench oil actually speeds it up by reducing its viscosity. If I'm wrong, hopefully someone will step in and correct me.
I've only done two knives in it so far, but I'm happy with the results. One of the blades I was fairly sure would warp (or even crack), as I had ground it too thin prior to heat treat, but it came out great. I was also worried that at room temp it would form more of a vapor barrier around the hot blade, and wouldn't cool it quickly enough, but the blades are hard. I don't have an RC tester yet, but am getting one and will do some comparisons between heated and unheated then. I'm using O1. If I was using 1095 (which needs a very fast quench) I'd heat the ToughQuench to make it faster.
Edited to add: I believe warming the quench oil actually speeds it up by reducing its viscosity. If I'm wrong, hopefully someone will step in and correct me.
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2002
- Messages
- 2,088
Tough Quench is available only from Brownells. Is a Brownell's trade name,
and was designed for oil hardening steels.
The instructions do say not to preheat, However, bladesmiths don't
always work in heated buildings (out-buildings, garages, etc) so
some preheating would provide blade-to-blade consistancy.
100 degrees F is probably optimum, and 125Deg,F should be max, as
Tough Quench tends to evaporate more quickly ( and thicken ) above
that point.
russandrews@sbcglobal.net
and was designed for oil hardening steels.
The instructions do say not to preheat, However, bladesmiths don't
always work in heated buildings (out-buildings, garages, etc) so
some preheating would provide blade-to-blade consistancy.
100 degrees F is probably optimum, and 125Deg,F should be max, as
Tough Quench tends to evaporate more quickly ( and thicken ) above
that point.
russandrews@sbcglobal.net
No haz mat sheet, though it has a large warning, including a warning to use good ventilation (one of the reasons I thought it might be best to stick with instructions and not heat it). The warning re: heating is "Important: use at room temperature - do not heat!" (exclamation mark is theirs).
Guys, I have used Tough Quench for quite awhile now and find it to be a very good quenchant. However, like many, I have also found that my results are better with heated oil. I use 100 F for O1 and 135 F for 5160.
This thread got me thinking though, so I sent an email to Brownell's customer service this morning, referencing this thread. I asked them to respond here or send me the response and I would post it. Specifically, my request was for MDS sheets, quenchant specifications (speed, viscosity, etc.), and above all, the heating issue. I asked them to have it addressed by someone well versed in metallurgy and quenchant technology. My guess is that this product is made for them. It would be nice to know the manufacturer's specifications. I made it known to them that many of us, including me, work in less than optimal conditions with regards to "room temperature", especially in winter. I did receive a confirmation that the email was received and will keep you informed about their response.
This thread got me thinking though, so I sent an email to Brownell's customer service this morning, referencing this thread. I asked them to respond here or send me the response and I would post it. Specifically, my request was for MDS sheets, quenchant specifications (speed, viscosity, etc.), and above all, the heating issue. I asked them to have it addressed by someone well versed in metallurgy and quenchant technology. My guess is that this product is made for them. It would be nice to know the manufacturer's specifications. I made it known to them that many of us, including me, work in less than optimal conditions with regards to "room temperature", especially in winter. I did receive a confirmation that the email was received and will keep you informed about their response.