Press Button Knife problem

M

Mark Irish

Joined
Aug 11, 2005
Messages
6
I recently found a 4" knife, manufactured by the Press Button Knife Company in the wall of my great grandfathers house. It is in remarkable condition given where it came from. The blade has some greying and black pitts, but is about 60-70% shiney. Under strong light, you can read the word "INVINCIBLE" etched in a ribbon on the blade. It has the appropriate patent number. The button still works, with a nice feel to the spring action. The problem is that the blade was open. It appears to be locked up somehow. Would anyone have any advice on how to close the knife and or restore the mechanism to operation? Best Regards, Mark.
 
I researched the patent, and the original was submitted by George Schrade, and the company was absorbed into Schrade when they went Bankrupt in 1924.
 
Welcome!

I wish I could help on this one, but just sit chilly, as we have some real knowlegeable guys here....and a couple who really know their autos.

A picture would be very good, if possible.

Bill
 
Well you are a bit off on your research. Press button knife was a line of knives produced by Walden knife which started making them in the first half of the 1890 tys Approx 1894 . Most were George Schrade patents and Schrade was a part owner and manager for there production. In 1903 Schrade sold his rights to these patents and left Walden knife to begin the Schrade cutlery knife company along with his brothers. Prior to 1894 Schrade ran a business making patent prototypes for aspiring inventors ( in NYC ) he was enticed by the manager owner of Walden knife Mr Whitehead to move to Walden NY to produce these automatic knives ( often referred to as switchblades ). so the question of whether or not the original idea was his or someone elses has always been in question the fact is he owned the patents.

I believe when you measured your knife you measured the blade alone. The handle of the invicible model is around five inchs. Unlike most knives where either the blade alone or the entire open knife is measured old domestic automatics are measured closed and the measurment is the entire handle length.

A smaller similar version of your knife was produced and was four inchs long however it would have been blade etched Business. Finding one of these with a blade etch is a real plus ( DO NOT CLEAN YOUR BLADE ) unless you know how to do it correctly or you could lose the etch ( which is only electroplate ) your knife could not have been used much since the etch is the first thing that goes.

I am attaching a page from my book ( The Collectors Guide to Switchblade Knives ). This will give you some info and a general idea of value and an idea of how to grade your knife. Also a couple of pic from my CD so that you can compare them . Please remember prices quoted are RETAIL. Also value is vastly dependent on condition. You will notice neither of my knives have the etching and my invicible model has a bail.

Now regarding your knifes condition and repair. Without a pic and more info it is like operating in a darkroom. However It would seem that your knife is frozen in the open position. If there is no other info I am missing and this is simply a condition, from perhapes 100 years of non use. Then I would suggest using an ample application of WD-40 then after lubricating the entire knife. Press the button in ( completely ) and lightly apply pressure to the back of the blade and see if it will work free. This knife should lock in the open position and when closed click into position and stay down. These knives had no safety lock escept for the release button being slightly depressed into the bolster. In this case that is a good thing and as long as everything is there this type of mech ( in that respect ) is more reliable for resurrection than the improved Schrade cuts with the locking slide. So when the blade and mech are oiled and the blade moves, simply close the knife which will now expose more of the blade in the top bolster so use more oil. If it makes you feel better the knife was stored in the correct position.

Now once again when you close the knife if you hear a sickening tink, that is the unused 100 year old throw spring breaking hopefully you will be spared that but, do not be surprised. By now the knife is moving correctly the bone handles are shimmering beautifully from the oil and you are clutching a functional piece of american history. By the way the oil will not hurt the etch and will to a lesser extent help clean the blade. I would suggest at this point using some white lightning which is a lubricant in a liquid wax based medium which should further increase the mechs correct function. NOTE if the knife is really cruddy you might wish to use a gun (type) cleaning solvent prior to the original WD-40 treatment.

Please advise how you make out and if I can assist in any other way. I am only going on the info supplied if something else is wrong then other actions might be needed. A pic is a great help and there are people on this forum who will assist if you have trouble posting them. LT
 
Thank you everyone for your help with my question. The knife still doesn't close, but the blade is loose and has a degree or two of movement. I will keep oiling it and hope it loosens up. Best Regards, Mark
 
Do not attempt to move it unless the button is being FULLY depressed. Work the button that open blade lock should be the only thing stopping it. LT
 
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