Press troubles

Will52100

Will52100

Joined
Dec 4, 2001
Messages
3,824
Well I finaly got the new motor installed and 220 line run. Trouble is it was nearly freezing and didn't get to cycle much before being chased inside by the cold. It wouldn't get over 1200 PSI but is suposed to go to 2500 PSI. Do I need to let it run a bit of warm up the fluid to develop max PSI, or will I need to ajust the relief valve?

Thanks,

Will
 
Will,

Probably both. Hydraulics sometimes don't run well in very cold temps. Prior to building my new shop (the old shop had no heat in it) I had to heat a large chunk if steel and place it under the fluid tank on my press to get any work out of it at all if the temp was below freezing. Even when the temps were in the mid 30s to low 40s I would have to let it run for several minutes to develop full power. Now that it's in a heated shop where the temp stays set on 55F I have no problems.
 
Will,

Get a heat tape like the kind you would buy at the hardware store to keep your water pipes from freezing. Wrap it around the reservoir for an hour or so before forging. I did this for an old shop press I had and it worked wonders! Cheap too! :thumbup:
 
I believe there is a adjustment on the spool valve for pressure. did you get the one that I had on the spreadsheet I sent you???
 
Thanks Guys, now how do you ajust the relief valve? I have all the info that came with my pump and valves, but it just says ajust, not how. I know there's a screw that you turn, but how much? Under pressure or with motor off, neutral position or smashing somthing? Half turn at a time and check PSI or full turn?

It's in the mid 40's rite now, still running at about 11-1200 PSI, I let it run for a little while and smashed a few 4x4's and 2x4's and still the pressure is low.

IG it's the valve that you sent info on.

I've got a pressure gage T'd into the pressure line between the pump and valve. Max pressure for this set-up is 3000PSI, hoses are good for 5000, but pump and cylinder are only rated to 3000. Would like to get it up to 24-2500PSI.

Thanks,

Will
 
Willy,at one end of the valve, there is a 7/8" nut/cap unscrew that and the set screw is under it. If I remember correctly?????????:confused: :confused:
 
Will before you monkey a lot with it make sure it's not just the cold.
it will become summer before long
the ball under the spring is to close off the return port
and bypass oil, the spring acts like a releif valve
the more pressure on the spring the more you choke off the bypass rerouting the oil to the piston causing the pressure to go up.
keep a close eye on the gauge..I believe you should be looking at working pressure from the gauge ,
 
Thanks Guys, got it maxing out at 2500PSI exactly.

IG you were rite on, the set screw is under a cap on front next to the vavle's piston.

Dan it's not the cold, or at least not much, it warmed up pretty well here and I worked it enough to warm the fluid a little. I did plumb everything so that the gage is rite next to the vavle handle and within my perhipreal vision while looking at the dies.

Now I just got to finish more dies, hope to play some tomorrow evening and maybe get started on finishing some orders up.

Thanks for everything guys, you've all been a big help
 
I bought the same valve, and it came set way low, too. Probably a liability thing to protect us from ourselves. :) Not a bad idea!

Cool, Will, you're off and running! Have fun!
 
Will52100 said:
Thanks Guys, got it maxing out at 2500PSI exactly.

IG you were rite on, the set screw is under a cap on front next to the vavle's piston.
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Cool:thumbup:Will that relief spring and ball is what you adjusted presure on under that cap..in case you didn't know what you were doing while screwing it in;) :)
 
Well I forge a couple of billets on it today and I love it, but a 50lb. hammer would be a nice compliment. I also turned a 3" ball bearing into broken up chunks of scrap without to much trouble, guess it was a little on the cool side.:D
 
Careful with the cool stuff. Anthing that doesn't squish can break and shoot right through you. Get it really hot before you put it under a press.

John
 
Will52100 said:
Well I forge a couple of billets on it today and I love it, but a 50lb. hammer would be a nice compliment. I also turned a 3" ball bearing into broken up chunks of scrap without to much trouble, guess it was a little on the cool side.:D
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That a boy Willy!!!! It is going to hurt like a mother if you get one of those little chunks stuck in between you eyes.:eek: :eek:
 
Too true, but it didn't fly apart, just kinda crumbled and fell apart. Think my ram speed is a little slower than some of the other machines. It takes nearly 5 seconds for the 8" ram to fully extend. I'm running a 11 GPM pump, guess I should have gone with the 13 or 16, but I kinda like the slower speed. Even at the slower speed it's easy to smash to much. I did bend and have to replace a ram guid, one of my new drawing dies slid out a little and cocked the ram a little. Need to make a retainer for the die plates. Other than that it doesn't even flex the frame under full grunt.
 
Will: What size motor and RPM's do you have. I believe:confused: :confused: this has a major affect on the ram speed. My speed is 2" per second. But my cylinder is only 4 1/2" and I got a 3 HP @ 3250 RPM's.
 
I'm moving at about 1.5" a second. 5" cylinder, 11GPM pump, 3 horse motor(it was rated at 5, but they droped the rating for some reason) 3200 rpm. It's a dual stage pump, I imagine with a 4.5" cylinder or slightly faster pump it'd move quiker. I just leave enough room for the billet and it smashed the crap out of it. Almost too much power
 
Will52100 said:
I'm moving at about 1.5" a second. 5" cylinder, 11GPM pump, 3 horse motor(it was rated at 5, but they droped the rating for some reason) 3200 rpm. It's a dual stage pump, I imagine with a 4.5" cylinder or slightly faster pump it'd move quiker. I just leave enough room for the billet and it smashed the crap out of it. Almost too much power
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No such thing as to much power.:D :D :D
 
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