Pressing bearings into contact wheel?

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Nov 14, 2017
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Just arrived - 12" contact wheel from China, only $78 shipped!* - and some high-quality 6202-8 dual-sealed bearings.

Having a heck of a time figuring out how to press them in right (I know all kinds of ways to do it wrong, and damage them.) So far I've used some WD-40 and put the bearings in the freezer to shrink them, and tried to carefully press them in both manually and using a wood block to try to apply even pressure - no love.

I've read about heating the wheel itself, too, but I also read a good point from an old hand: it doesn't matter if you heat just the hole area -- you have to heat the entire wheel to get it to expand so that the hole expands**, and I'm nervous about heating it near the rubber. It's an aluminum wheel. I did a quick calc using the coefficient of expansion of aluminum and got that heating it from room temp to 80°C (about 175°F) would get me about 0.015mm -> 6 ten-thou's (and that'd be diameter so divide by 2, I believe...?). I'm probably way off, but doesn't sound worth trying.

I don't have a Really Big Shop Press. I do have lots of clamps, and lots of other tools. If possible, I'd rather find that there's an old trick to this so that I don't have to build a one-time jig with, say, my 10-ton bottle jack or tapping some threads in some bars... Any ideas?
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*yeah, China, I know - but it looks exactly like the Ameribrade wheel, down to the grind-hole from the dynamic balancing - and Ameribrade says theirs are foreign-sourced, so you connect the dots.... With shipping and bearings, the Ameribrade's $139; I bought high-quality bearings but even with factory bearings mine would've been $83.90, so I'm happy with the 40% ($55) discount. And I received it - from Hong Kong - 5 days from placing the order.

** this is a classic case of the old riddle: if you heat a piece of material with a hole in the middle, will the hole expand or shrink? There're some really clever thought-experiments that show that the answer is that the hole will in fact get larger. The easiest is to imagine that the cutout piece - the circle from the hole - is still in place. When you heat the whole (hole?) thing up, obviously that disc will expand. Ergo, the hole must, too. But, as I mentioned, that means the entire outer piece all the way to the edges must as well. Otherwise the hole and thus the piece in it would be constrained and there's no room for expansion. Which is my problem, as mentioned above.
 
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I'm guessing the "old trick" is it needs to be sized right. I'm thinking it's not bored out the right size. It should not be that hard to install the bearings.
 
Sorry I can't help with the bearing issue... I am in the market for a 12in wheel, I was wondering if you'd be willing to share a link!
 
I've read about heating the wheel itself, too, but I also read a good point from an old hand: it doesn't matter if you heat just the hole area -- you have to heat the entire wheel to get it to expand so that the hole expands**, and I'm nervous about heating it near the rubber.
In some instruction from SKF they say ordinary light bulb is enough to heat inside hole for bearing . If tolerances are good heat/freezer should be enough . Before you ruin something I suggest you to take that wheel to professional to do this . They know how much tolerance is must and they have proper tool to precisely measure ......
 
I have the same contact wheel and it is very nice. The cleanup after machining appears minimal. I cleaned mine up with brake cleaner and then went over the inner holes with some emery cloth. I froze my bearings and they went in by hand on one side and a few light taps with a wooden block and mallet on the other. If that doesn't work, try dry ice / denatured alcohol to freeze bearings, or blast them with a can of dust off
 
I'm guessing the "old trick" is it needs to be sized right. I'm thinking it's not bored out the right size. It should not be that hard to install the bearings.

Sounds reasonable, but the size was right (both the mfg. bore size and bearing spec, and the bearings I bought, were for 6202 (i.e. 40mm OD). I ended up getting them installed just fine with a little bit of judicious force (I did read that any kind of hammering other than very gentle skilled taps is strongly discouraged). I froze the bearings again, WD40'd, and very carefully used a block of wood and my body weight - evenly applied! - to press them in. (Yep, there was a little not-really-'jumping' involved, but VERY careful to keep the pressure even, and ONLY on the outer race....)
 
In some instruction from SKF they say ordinary light bulb is enough to heat inside hole for bearing . If tolerances are good heat/freezer should be enough . Before you ruin something I suggest you to take that wheel to professional to do this . They know how much tolerance is must and they have proper tool to precisely measure ......

Used to know a couple of guys that repaired a lot spindles and did a lot of bearing replacements and such. Even for larger bearings I was told you shouldn't need more than a blowdryer or a heat gun.

I don't know how crazy they get on the fit and finish of these wheels, but definitely make sure the bearing bores are de-burred properly. Then I'd try freezing the bearings, heating the hub, and giving them a light tap with something that spans at least the outer races. The bearings should begin to "stick" in the bore without too much pressure if the holes are properly sized. If they don't seem like they're even starting at all, you're likely going to need to get them machined larger.
 
Try to pull the bearings in place vs pushing them.
Use a bolt the diameter of the bearing inside hole, or use a smaller bolt and wrap it with tape or use bushings. The main thing is to keep it centered in the hole. The bolt needs to be long enough to pass through a heavy washer, then a bearing then the center of the wheel, another heavy washer and a nut. If the bolt is long enough you can put the second bearing on the stack, i.e. bolt, washer, bearing, wheel, bearing, washer, nut. Tighten the bolt nut combination pulling both bearings into place. Make sure the washers are big enough to cover the outer diameter of the bearings. If the inner portion of the bearing sticks out further than the outer rim use spacers so the pressure is on the outer rim. Hope this makes sense.
Jim A.
 
Cant you buy this wheel with the bearings already installed? Ive noticed people that buy this wheel dont get it with the 6202 bearings and was curious why
 
I bought a 14" with already installed bearings.They will not be the best bearings on the market, but they work very well! Maybe they will wear out sooner but for now after grinding 5 droppoint I have no problem.
 
I used an arbor press to push mine in. I just froze the bearings and heated the wheel with a heat gun. I didn’t use any lube or grease on the wheel because I didn’t want any to get on the bearings. Oil/grease attracts dirt, dust, and debris.
 
I bought a 14" with already installed bearings.They will not be the best bearings on the market, but they work very well! Maybe they will wear out sooner but for now after grinding 5 droppoint I have no problem.

I bought mine the same way. I'm less concerned about the quality/life of bearings in wheels 10, 12, 14" wheels. They simply see vastly fewer revolutions, at lower speeds, than 2" platen wheels.

For example, a 14" wheel running 3000 sfm is only going 818 RPM, compared to a 2" wheel going 5,736 RPM.
 
I would not freeze the bearings in dry ice/alcohol. It may ruin the seals. Freezer cold is plenty if they are properly matched to the bore. I would sand the inside of the bore a bit. Also, look for any mold lines still showing or other bumps in the bore.
Lithium grease, or plain old bearing grease, is much better than WD-40 ... which isn't a lubricant.
 
Try to pull the bearings in place vs pushing them.
Use a bolt the diameter of the bearing inside hole, or use a smaller bolt and wrap it with tape or use bushings. The main thing is to keep it centered in the hole. The bolt needs to be long enough to pass through a heavy washer, then a bearing then the center of the wheel, another heavy washer and a nut. If the bolt is long enough you can put the second bearing on the stack, i.e. bolt, washer, bearing, wheel, bearing, washer, nut. Tighten the bolt nut combination pulling both bearings into place. Make sure the washers are big enough to cover the outer diameter of the bearings. If the inner portion of the bearing sticks out further than the outer rim use spacers so the pressure is on the outer rim. Hope this makes sense.
Jim A.
DAMN I wish I'd thoughta that! Totally brilliant.
Given that the "axle" I'll be using is actually a 1/2" bolt anyway - I already had that and the nuts and was just missing a couple of big-ol' washers (or just scrap steel with a 1/2" hole drilled). Filing that away for "next time"....thanks!
 
Cant you buy this wheel with the bearings already installed? Ive noticed people that buy this wheel dont get it with the 6202 bearings and was curious why
Just to add a little detail/explanation to what a couple of folks have pointed out about 6202 vs. 6202-8 bearings: 6202's have an ID of 15mm, which is between 37/64 and 19/32 inches, so getting a usable shaft with appropriate threading, in the US, would be a custom machining job (and negate any savings :)). OTOH, 6202-8 bearings (which I ordered and pressed in) have the same OD and width, so they'd fit the metric bore - but an ID of 1/2" - so I can use a $2 hardware-store bolt as the spindle.

Also: totally agree with Stacy on (A) don't chill bearings in low-temp solvent solutions (besides ruining the seal I'd worry about the grease), (B) appreciate the reminder of the obvious "look for bumps/mold-lines" (which I hadn't, "doh!"), and (C) especially "doh!" - WD40 is not a lubricant*, and I shoulda used lithium.
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(*OK, technically, WD-40 is a mix of primarily C9-C14 alkanes like nonane, decane, etc., which are non-polar and thus don't play nice with water (hence the "WD", which stands for "water displacing") with some light mineral oil. So, yeah, that's a 'lubricant' - but not the kind you want to make surfaces nicely slippery. (Full disclosure: I have a patent involving hydrocarbon chemistry. So I should probably feel extra-stupid. :))
 
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