I found a Mora #1 that I had in my car as part of an emergency kit that had gotten wet and remained unnoticed for several months. There was rust on the blade, so I knew that there would be rust on the tang also. I live in Colorado, so there was probably a LOT less rust on it than some of you on the coast or in humid environments. Still, my one concern with hidden tang knives is the rust inside the handle, and the germs if it is used for hunting and/or food.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2015_zpsfr5ycvuz.jpg
So I'm not a fan of Mora's in general, they are cheap and lightweight, so I like to have them laying around for emergencies and garden work. I don't like any of my tools being abused or left to rust, so here's how I stopped it, and will prevent future rusting.
The first step is to remove the blade. If you have a full hidden tang, it's quite easy. Just position the knife tip down on a vise (loosely) with the blade running through the jaws of the vise and resting on it's collar. Carefully tap on the ferrule inside the butt end (pommel?) of the knife with a punch. Keep in mind, you are driving a sharp knife down - tip first - at your feet. It is prudent to place something large and soft below it so that you don't drop it onto the floor (or on your feet). Safety first.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2016_zpsns2pvoe5.jpg
You don't have to drive the punch in too far, if you do, you'll split the handle. That's not a big deal, as we'll be epoxying everything anyway, but it's best to avoid damage if possible. I'm usually able to drive it out an inch or so, and then pull the blade out by hand. Here's what it looked like after I drove it out.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2017_zpsbxrrhqjo.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2018_zps5ajgzkij.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2019_zpsx3slcvbt.jpg
And the ferrule is still on my punch.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2021_zps4dd8rddx.jpg
The collar should just pull off, it's all a press fit. It doesn't have too much rust on it, but having such a large gap shows why the rust is there.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2024_zpsxpomlgo7.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2023_zpsityjztd8.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2022_zpsdzc3b5bh.jpg
Completely disassembled.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2027_zpsev4jy87g.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2028_zpsoa5f8dgu.jpg
Being impatient, I took the blade to my Harbor Freight belt grinder and had the rust off in a couple of minutes.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2029_zpsoslrqjpt.jpg
It's hard to get into all the nooks and crannies, so I used Naval Jelly for the rest of the tang, as well as for the collar and ferrule. Wear gloves!
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2031_zpsbovmyopi.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2032_zpskmbmyy2y.jpg
While the NJ is converting the rust, it's a good time to sand the handle (optional of course) and re-stain it.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2034_zpsnqsoldyy.jpg
All cleaned up.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2036_zpspyzhyhbc.jpg
I like a nice cherry color, but couldn't find it so I chose chestnut. I'm using a screwdriver to prop up the handle while I stain and urethane it.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2038_zpse5eslyyv.jpg
Time for reassembly. I used to use 5 min epoxy, but it sets so fast you don't have much time for adjustments, plus, it gets *really* hot. One hour epoxy works better for me. I put equal amounts in a ziplock bag, mix it up, then snip a corner off and use it the same way you would frost a cake.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2041_zpsagznjvmq.jpg
Fill up the handle until it's oozing out the other end, then reassemble. There's no way to avoid a mess, keep paper towels handy and wear rubber gloves. You can tap the knife back in by tapping the point on a wood surface, then tap the ferrule in on a metal surface, like a vice. Repeat as necessary.
The final product.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2049_zps9mpcgbyv.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2050_zpszgntrh0s.jpg
Now the handle is full of epoxy and rust free, and all the possible entry points are sealed. I actually use the epoxy as a final handle finish on my cheap kitchen knives, it's high gloss and very water resistant. As you can tell, I'm not a knife maker or craftsman in any way, and if I can do it, so can you!
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2015_zpsfr5ycvuz.jpg
So I'm not a fan of Mora's in general, they are cheap and lightweight, so I like to have them laying around for emergencies and garden work. I don't like any of my tools being abused or left to rust, so here's how I stopped it, and will prevent future rusting.
The first step is to remove the blade. If you have a full hidden tang, it's quite easy. Just position the knife tip down on a vise (loosely) with the blade running through the jaws of the vise and resting on it's collar. Carefully tap on the ferrule inside the butt end (pommel?) of the knife with a punch. Keep in mind, you are driving a sharp knife down - tip first - at your feet. It is prudent to place something large and soft below it so that you don't drop it onto the floor (or on your feet). Safety first.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2016_zpsns2pvoe5.jpg
You don't have to drive the punch in too far, if you do, you'll split the handle. That's not a big deal, as we'll be epoxying everything anyway, but it's best to avoid damage if possible. I'm usually able to drive it out an inch or so, and then pull the blade out by hand. Here's what it looked like after I drove it out.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2017_zpsbxrrhqjo.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2018_zps5ajgzkij.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2019_zpsx3slcvbt.jpg
And the ferrule is still on my punch.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2021_zps4dd8rddx.jpg
The collar should just pull off, it's all a press fit. It doesn't have too much rust on it, but having such a large gap shows why the rust is there.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2024_zpsxpomlgo7.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2023_zpsityjztd8.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2022_zpsdzc3b5bh.jpg
Completely disassembled.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2027_zpsev4jy87g.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2028_zpsoa5f8dgu.jpg
Being impatient, I took the blade to my Harbor Freight belt grinder and had the rust off in a couple of minutes.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2029_zpsoslrqjpt.jpg
It's hard to get into all the nooks and crannies, so I used Naval Jelly for the rest of the tang, as well as for the collar and ferrule. Wear gloves!
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2031_zpsbovmyopi.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2032_zpskmbmyy2y.jpg
While the NJ is converting the rust, it's a good time to sand the handle (optional of course) and re-stain it.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2034_zpsnqsoldyy.jpg
All cleaned up.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2036_zpspyzhyhbc.jpg
I like a nice cherry color, but couldn't find it so I chose chestnut. I'm using a screwdriver to prop up the handle while I stain and urethane it.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2038_zpse5eslyyv.jpg
Time for reassembly. I used to use 5 min epoxy, but it sets so fast you don't have much time for adjustments, plus, it gets *really* hot. One hour epoxy works better for me. I put equal amounts in a ziplock bag, mix it up, then snip a corner off and use it the same way you would frost a cake.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2041_zpsagznjvmq.jpg
Fill up the handle until it's oozing out the other end, then reassemble. There's no way to avoid a mess, keep paper towels handy and wear rubber gloves. You can tap the knife back in by tapping the point on a wood surface, then tap the ferrule in on a metal surface, like a vice. Repeat as necessary.
The final product.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2049_zps9mpcgbyv.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/sodak_photos/inventory/IMG_2050_zpszgntrh0s.jpg
Now the handle is full of epoxy and rust free, and all the possible entry points are sealed. I actually use the epoxy as a final handle finish on my cheap kitchen knives, it's high gloss and very water resistant. As you can tell, I'm not a knife maker or craftsman in any way, and if I can do it, so can you!
