Primary and Secondary Bevels

[Jason B.]

Finally figured out my GoPro and decided to make a new video

I talk about the famous Murray Carter Primary and Secondary bevel sharpening and how it can be applied to modern cutlery.

I also demonstrate some new stones that you will be hearing more about in upcoming videos.

Enjoy!
[video=youtube;t7fynRojtcM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7fynRojtcM&list=UUfsHYm19KjjnUlpG8WVMZOA[/video]

 

[bgentry]

Thanks for the video.

Initially I thought you had ground very large secondary bevels into the Delica, but looking at pictures, it seems like the saber grind was actually already very wide. Did you alter the grind of the saber, making it more flat? Or did you move the transition between the saber grind and the main body of the blade backwards? Or both?

Video comments: You might try the camera "over your shoulder" behind you so we can see what you see, or at least closer to what you see. There were some loud creaking sounds picked up by the camera; presumably the ceiling/floor above with someone walking around.

Thanks again,

Brian.

 

[Jason B.]

Thanks Brian,

I plan to lower the camera a bit, might even try a head or chest mount for the camera at some point. Lots of options with the GoPro. The creaking is the floors, old house.

As for the knife,

It was a thick grind from the factory so I thinned the whole saber ground section on a 220 Imanishi stone, this video picks up right after that.

Here is the Delica before the video started with its 220 grit finish on the sides.

 

[bgentry]

Attachment won't show for some reason. I *would* like to see it.

So would you say you moved the transition line from the top of the saber grind to the main body up at all? Or just thinned down the saber section, keeping the exact same transition line?

Thanks,

Brian.

 

[samuraistuart]

Great job Jason! Great video! I do the EXACT same thing with my DMT plates. They have the same little round stick on bumpers!

 

[Jason B.]

Attachment won't show for some reason. I *would* like to see it.

So would you say you moved the transition line from the top of the saber grind to the main body up at all? Or just thinned down the saber section, keeping the exact same transition line?

Thanks,

Brian.

I kept the line and just thinned it out, like sharpening a Scandi grind. It's also why I said I couldn't get the symmetry perfect, by just thinning and sticking with the existing grind I am bound by the existing angle.

 

[Jason B.]

Great job Jason! Great video! I do the EXACT same thing with my DMT plates. They have the same little round stick on bumpers!

Thank you

 

[HeavyHanded]

How long did it take to do the initial thinning on the 220 Imanishi? If you mention in the vid I didn't catch it.

Also nice quality and good topic, those GoPros do a nice job.

Martin

 

[Jason B.]

How long did it take to do the initial thinning on the 220 Imanishi? If you mention in the vid I didn't catch it.

Also nice quality and good topic, those GoPros do a nice job.

Martin

The 220 is a very fast cutting stone, I know it was less than I spent on the 800 so, 10-15 minutes?

It wears faster than my 150 bamboo stone and leaves deeper scratches too, actually a bit difficult for the 800 to remove. I used the 220 over other stones because it cuts the fastest and I had a lot of metal to remove. It also wears very fast and is very aggressive which makes its use limited, it's not really for anything but large flat bevels.

 

[awestib]

Great video once again, thanks for sharing Jason. Also it seems a GoPro is the way to "Go". Always nice to see how often u inspect your progress and adjust accordingly.

 

[Stand Straight]

I'm not a free hand person but I like all types of instructional videos as they help me to become more well rounded in my hobby. Jason...very nice video.
Thank you.

 

[REK Knives]

Mad skills Jason! :thumbup:

 

[Jason B.]

Thank you, everyone

 

[rutcrazed]

Yep, you rock. Thanks for sharing your talent with us.