Pro Edge question

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Jun 21, 2008
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How small a blade you can sharpen with the Pro Edge? I want to get one for use on all my knives including my slipjoints


I meant Edge Pro...sorry for any confusion.
 
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You can do slip joints. There is an adjustable guide. However, in my experience the larger the blade, the easier. Small blades present challenges, but its doable. Its just harder to keep the blade flat on the platform.
 
You can do slip joints. There is an adjustable guide. However, in my experience the larger the blade, the easier. Small blades present challenges, but its doable. Its just harder to keep the blade flat on the platform.

Other than sticks and just stones is there a system that is more slipjoint/small blade friendly?

thanks
 
I've put a new edge on a Microtech UTX70 with the edge pro. That blade is .080" (2 mm) thick, 2.41" (61 mm) long and about .4-something" (~11 mm) from edge to spine. I just removed the plastic thing (as described in the manual) to reduce the height of the blade guide. No problem.
 
Stick a strong magnet under the part where you lay the blade on. It helps to keep the blade steady. Got the idea from the chefknivestogo website. Those powerfull little magnets are cheap and very easy to find online.
 
The DMT Aligner works great for slipjoints but you are limited in sharpening angle to presets on the guides.
 
Stick a strong magnet under the part where you lay the blade on. It helps to keep the blade steady. Got the idea from the chefknivestogo website. Those powerfull little magnets are cheap and very easy to find online.
Won't you risk magnetising the blade by doing that?
 
Haven't really thought about that, actually. Hmm..... I also made a system where I attached those magnets behind a wooden board and use it to stick my kitchenknives on, sofar no issues, I think. But even then, I suppose there's not much harm in it, if it does, I won't be cutting any metal with my knives.
 
Yeah, it's probably no big deal. I've heard that the metal coming off while sharpening can stick to a magnetised blade, but it might not be an issue when sharpening wet.
 
Something to consider with thin (narrow) blades is that the stop is going to be so far up on the table that the stones will hit the stop before they attack your blade.

Because of this I made a riser table for mine. It is about 1/16" thick x 1/2" wide, plastic. I just tape it down with blue painters tape. This way it gets the blade up higher and the stone will work it rather than the plastic bumper on the stop.

It is harder to do small blades. Though, I find long blades (5"+) to be pretty hard too. Blades in the 2.5"-4" range seem to work best in my experience.
 
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I convex sharpen on mine and in this regard, small blades aren't a big deal to get sharp. There's a thread about it on the chefknivestogo forum.
 
Won't you risk magnetising the blade by doing that?


Very true. That's why I'm careful not to use those knives for disarming IEDs.

I've never found a magnetized blade problematical for slicing apples or even sushi.


Stitchawl
 
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