Pro Tip: Hole Punching

Horsewright

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 4, 2011
Messages
13,058
I was working on a couple of Martingales/Breast Collars.

fBiTvFS.jpg


zvgriwD.jpg


These pieces of saddlery help stabilize the saddle on a horse's back and are particularly useful in rough mountainous country or while roping. There are two "tugs" that attach the martingale to the saddle. I still need to build the tugs and I wanted to share a way of punching holes, a lot of holes that I came upon some time ago.

So these are the tugs ready to be punched. One martingale has stainless hardware the other brass and this is an option that we offer.

vjGrlBR.jpg


If ya don't have one of these handy dandy grid cutting mats on your bench top, ya might consider getting one. I don't really cut on it, except for fringe or something like that but they are very useful. So four tugs and lots of holes marked at an inch and a half:

BKIcUj3.jpg


I've kept a couple of bars of parrafin wax in the shop for years. I use it sometimes on my lathe when I rubbing edges. After a decade or so it's not very pristine. But the part you rub on your drive punch is and thats what matters.

mhZbEip.jpg


After marking the holes on the tugs I place them lined up on my Hydroma cutting block and hold them in place with a sandbag. If the hole punch doesn't slip right out its time for a little more wax. This is so much better than wrestling your drive punch out of the leather each time you use it. Give it a try waxing up your drive punch. That ol chunk of paraffin lives right next to the chopping block along with the maul these days and I use it often on any punch that I need to use over and over in a project.

kqGBpsx.jpg


KeMscKj.jpg


Got em done and shipped. Tugs are now mounted on the upper D rings:

ftaaWB7.jpg


rM8buMC.jpg


7SsgsjV.jpg


Give this little trick a try if ya got to punch some holes.
 
I was working on a couple of Martingales/Breast Collars.

fBiTvFS.jpg


zvgriwD.jpg


These pieces of saddlery help stabilize the saddle on a horse's back and are particularly useful in rough mountainous country or while roping. There are two "tugs" that attach the martingale to the saddle. I still need to build the tugs and I wanted to share a way of punching holes, a lot of holes that I came upon some time ago.

So these are the tugs ready to be punched. One martingale has stainless hardware the other brass and this is an option that we offer.

vjGrlBR.jpg


If ya don't have one of these handy dandy grid cutting mats on your bench top, ya might consider getting one. I don't really cut on it, except for fringe or something like that but they are very useful. So four tugs and lots of holes marked at an inch and a half:

BKIcUj3.jpg


I've kept a couple of bars of parrafin wax in the shop for years. I use it sometimes on my lathe when I rubbing edges. After a decade or so it's not very pristine. But the part you rub on your drive punch is and thats what matters.

mhZbEip.jpg


After marking the holes on the tugs I place them lined up on my Hydroma cutting block and hold them in place with a sandbag. If the hole punch doesn't slip right out its time for a little more wax. This is so much better than wrestling your drive punch out of the leather each time you use it. Give it a try waxing up your drive punch. That ol chunk of paraffin lives right next to the chopping block along with the maul these days and I use it often on any punch that I need to use over and over in a project.

kqGBpsx.jpg


KeMscKj.jpg


Got em done and shipped. Tugs are now mounted on the upper D rings:

ftaaWB7.jpg


rM8buMC.jpg


7SsgsjV.jpg


Give this little trick a try if ya got to punch some holes.
Great post. Your work is so CLEAN! Nice.
 
I was working on a couple of Martingales/Breast Collars.

fBiTvFS.jpg


zvgriwD.jpg


These pieces of saddlery help stabilize the saddle on a horse's back and are particularly useful in rough mountainous country or while roping. There are two "tugs" that attach the martingale to the saddle. I still need to build the tugs and I wanted to share a way of punching holes, a lot of holes that I came upon some time ago.

So these are the tugs ready to be punched. One martingale has stainless hardware the other brass and this is an option that we offer.

vjGrlBR.jpg


If ya don't have one of these handy dandy grid cutting mats on your bench top, ya might consider getting one. I don't really cut on it, except for fringe or something like that but they are very useful. So four tugs and lots of holes marked at an inch and a half:

BKIcUj3.jpg


I've kept a couple of bars of parrafin wax in the shop for years. I use it sometimes on my lathe when I rubbing edges. After a decade or so it's not very pristine. But the part you rub on your drive punch is and thats what matters.

mhZbEip.jpg


After marking the holes on the tugs I place them lined up on my Hydroma cutting block and hold them in place with a sandbag. If the hole punch doesn't slip right out its time for a little more wax. This is so much better than wrestling your drive punch out of the leather each time you use it. Give it a try waxing up your drive punch. That ol chunk of paraffin lives right next to the chopping block along with the maul these days and I use it often on any punch that I need to use over and over in a project.

kqGBpsx.jpg


KeMscKj.jpg


Got em done and shipped. Tugs are now mounted on the upper D rings:

ftaaWB7.jpg


rM8buMC.jpg


7SsgsjV.jpg


Give this little trick a try if ya got to punch some holes.
Lots of great info, thanks for the post.
What brand of hole puches are you using ?
 
Thanks guys!

I've got Osbornes. When they wear out I'll probably replace em with Weavers. On slot punches and tip punches I've got a mixture of Osbornes and Weaver. Weaver punches are better.
 
Great tip’s post ! Thank you !!! :-)


I just received a Weaver 1” oblong punch :-)
 
Great tip Dave. I made a leather hat some time ago and had to punch over 600 holes for the stitching. The wax trick made it somewhat tolerable.
I do agree with Dave that Weaver punches are very good and I have a complete set of round ones. I also recommend that anyone looking for high quality punches check out a Korean company called KS Blade. They make many types and their quality is exceptional. Not the crap you get from China for a couple of dollars. I have a set of round punches from them that are truly amazing. One of the advantages of their design is that they have much less taper than Orbornes or Weavers which can be a challenge in thicker leathers. No doubt the thinner metal could be damaged more easily but I have used mine a lot on good punching surfaces and have yet to have a problem. They also hold a edge for a long time. There is at least one US company selling them and you also can order directly from KS Blade. A bit less expensive than Weavers but not cheap. Here is a photo of mine.
Randy
Sm4ooZB.jpg
 
Great tip Dave. I made a leather hat some time ago and had to punch over 600 holes for the stitching. The wax trick made it somewhat tolerable.
I do agree with Dave that Weaver punches are very good and I have a complete set of round ones. I also recommend that anyone looking for high quality punches check out a Korean company called KS Blade. They make many types and their quality is exceptional. Not the crap you get from China for a couple of dollars. I have a set of round punches from them that are truly amazing. One of the advantages of their design is that they have much less taper than Orbornes or Weavers which can be a challenge in thicker leathers. No doubt the thinner metal could be damaged more easily but I have used mine a lot on good punching surfaces and have yet to have a problem. They also hold a edge for a long time. There is at least one US company selling them and you also can order directly from KS Blade. A bit less expensive than Weavers but not cheap. Here is a photo of mine.
Randy
Sm4ooZB.jpg
That’s cool to know had not heard of them before. They make bag punches? I’m looking for a 2.5” one.
 
Thanks, Dave! I have been using Bee's Wax for my tools and needles. I also found that I punch better holes when I have a piece of scrap leather underneath the good leather.
 
Thanks, Dave! I have been using Bee's Wax for my tools and needles. I also found that I punch better holes when I have a piece of scrap leather underneath the good leather.
Yep I do that too when the bottom side, like a pancake sheath is finished. Keeps it way cleaner.
 
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