Problem using my Work Sharp....

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Dec 4, 2010
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So I've used my Ken Onion Edition Work Sharp since about 2014. I've sharpened many knives with with it successfully.

The last two knives I've sharpened with it (cheap ones fortunately) I ended up with a nasty recurve on the blades.

1/2 of me says this is some error with my technique. The other half says it would be nearly impossible to duplicate twice unintentionally. Could this somehow be linked to the abrassive belts I'm using? Perhaps it's time to replace them?

Any thoughts?
 
Unfortunately it's quite easy to do this, it happens if you hesitate for too long in one area of the blade and end up removing too much material. If you remove too much material near the heel of the blade, you'll end up with a recurve. These things can happen really quickly with powered sharpeners which is why I don't go near them.

I would think that if any thing, a fresh belt would be even more prone to causing this since it will be at its peak aggression. A worn belt will cause the blade to heat up more without removing as much material.
 
Spending too much time in one area, as the above poster says, definitely wears part of the blade more than other parts. I think there's something about the geometry of the WS and it's guide which makes this happen more easily near the heel, but it's not in a straight line. As you have observed, it tends to create a recurve. I've seen a couple of youtube videos where people accidentally do this and then get rather upset with themselves or the machine, or both.

The shape of the guide might have something to do with this.

I'm not the typical WorkSharp user because I use it like a little tiny belt sander and do not use the guide. There are several benefits to using it freehand. You can lift straight off of the belt, as opposed to a pull through motion. This gives you more control. You can vary the pressure of the blade against the belt from rather light to much heavier. It's easier to go back and forth, keeping the blade in motion. You really have much much more freedom to control more variables doing it freehand. But like anything more freedom of motion means the operator has a greater responsibility.

In my case this has worked out really well. I learned with cheap knives (under $2 each) and worked my way up to more and more aggressive belts.

Depending upon your level of interest in sharpening and this machine, you might give freehand sharpening on the WS a try.

Good luck to you sir.

Brian.
 
I noticed this happening to one of my knives using the Ken Onion Work Sharp when I first got started sharpening. Since I moved on to the Blade Grinder Attachment and ditched the guides it has not been an issue.
 
If you don't change to the grinder attachment you have to get very good at timing the start of the belt and your draw through, the result if not is a recurve. I have many good results on by my original and KO edition WS tools. But I also have some sharp yet funky edges on the knives I used to teach myself with.
 
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