Problem with Case Copperlock

Joined
Apr 6, 2002
Messages
1,356
I recently bought a new Case Copperlock with a 3" Wharncliffe blade. I like the handle shape. It is very similar to a canoe pattern slipjoint, which I find very comfortable and secure. The blade shape is also very useful. This is my second Wharncliffe.

Unfortunately, the lock is unbelievably hard to close. When I received the knife, it had black crud covering the tang and in between the liners. The knife was very rough and gritty when opening. I thought that some of this crud had gotten into the lock and was jamming it. I cleaned it out as best I could and put a drop of oil at the pivot and one between the liners. After working the blade back and forth a few times, it felt much smoother. I have had to do similar things with new knives before, so this is not a problem. However, the lock is still too stiff to close easily. Part of the problem may be that the cutout in the handle is too shallow, and this makes it difficult to fully depress the locking bar.

I haven't decided how to handle this yet. I may return it to the place where I bought it. Or, I may return it to Case. What I need to know is whether anyone else has experience with this knife. I don't know if the knife is stiff by design or if I got a lemon. I have average hand strength, but have never felt a lockback like this before. It is painful to use.

Your thoughts are appreciated.
 
I have a Copperlock.

Mine did not have the gritty feeling that you describe, but it is hard to close due to a very stiff spring and a relatively shallow lock bar cutout.

I never carried the knife much but once you get used to the action it becomes much easier to close.
 
try spraying a little wd-40 into the lock and inside the blade area in the liners. The gunk your seeing is probably the compound (more than likely rouge) used to polish the knife, with a little working it should come out ok.
Whenever I make a new knife I polish all pieces seperately then I put it together and check for even finish. sand, polish more if need be, take apart and clean all pieces again (and reassemble).
When I make slipjoints I finish polishing and have to clean out the rouge by wiping, and if need be spraying the excess out (with a solvent). Im sure theres probably nothing wrong with your knife, it probably just needs cleaning. You can use an air compressor also to blow some of the "gunk" out also.
If none of these things work, then definitely send it to case for them to take care of the problem!!!

hope this helps some!!!
 
I have several Copperlocks and Mini Copperlocks, none of them are hard to close. That's not normal. If the cutout in the handle seems too shallow, that's probably not the real problem. The cutout in the handle is probably consistent from knife to knife. The lock bar sits down into the blade too deeply on your knife. This lockup is what will change from knife to knife. If you're pushing the lock bar all the way down to the bottom of the handle cutout, and the blade just barely releases, that's a manufacturing defect.
 
Just wanted to post an update. I inspected the knife for the problem that Wirebender noted. The lockbar seemed to be seated properly.

Then, I tried rev_jch's suggestion. After cleaning out the knife as he described, I applied 3-in-1 oil liberally. My normal procedure is one small drop on the pivot, but I really saturated it this time. Then, I just let it sit all week. I occasionally opened the knife 90 degrees, so that the lock bar was fully depressed and the oil could work in. After a week, the lock was much improved. I then spent 30 minutes working the knife open and closed and wiping off all the excess oil. Problem solved! It is stiff, as fishbulb mentioned, but very manageable now.

I think that they did not clean the knife out before final assembly and failed to oil it. There must have been something dried up in there that the cleaning and oiling loosened and flushed out. I've never had this problem before and glad it worked out. I really wanted to keep the knife. For $35, it is a nice package. We'll see how the CV steel performs.

Thanks, guys.
 
Back
Top