Problem with Izula (novice)

Joined
Sep 15, 2011
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6
To Be fair this is most likely a problem with my lack of Knife knowledge since this Izula is the first Knife I've ever owned.

I recently pulled the trigger on an Izula after reading all the rave reviews. I just received it. Took it out of the package and tried the arm hair shave test. No dice. I then tried the paper cut test. Nothing. I then went out and bought a Smiths Pocket Pal and ran it through the ceramic side a few times. Tried again and even duller then before.

So my question is what next? Should I invest in a stone? How can I get this blade razor shape. I doubt it's the steels fault. Isn't the pocket pal a good sharpener?

I've always wanted to learn how to sharpen a knife especially since I also just bought an Esee 5.

Thanks for the help.
 
Yeah, those pull-through sharpeners are junk. To me, the absolute easiest sharpener to use is the crock stick style, like the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It's not just for novices, either, I still use it today. Also, it comes with a great instructional DVD that shows you exactly how to use it properly. If the Sharpmaker is out of your budget for now, get something similar in design. I started with a Lansky product, don't remember the name, it's made of wood, and stores the rods inside when you're not using them. Hope this helps!
 
I've never owned or handled the Izula but as you mentioned, with all the positive reviews, I'm surprised you received the knife so dull it couldn't cut paper.
The good thing is that this forces you to learn how to sharpen a knife properly; a skill all knife knuts should have.

Pull-though sharpeners like the Smiths Pocket Pal will ruin your edge as they're usually set at the wrong angle and tend to take off way more metal than is necessary.
The go-to sharpener for most novices is the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It's easy to use and effective enough. From there you can learn how to maintain a constant angle, which is crucial to freehand sharpening. Alternatively, there are more elaborate guided sharpening systems that produce very impressive result (i.e. Apex Edge Pro, Wicked Edge etc.) however those systems tend to be expensive.

Here's a video of someone using the Sharpmaker for the first time and getting pretty good results.
[youtube]28dHENDuFu8[/youtube] [youtube]dLaDw66coD8[/youtube]
 
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The Sharpmaker and learning how to use is it is a great idea but if it really came that dull i would want to send it back for an exchange, if thats possible.
 
I have tried the spyderco sharpmaker and it works will for knives that are already sharp and only need a touch up. But it might be very time consuming and difficult to put and edge on a dull Izula only with a Sharpmaker. You consider putting a convex edge on it. Check out Bluntruth4u on youtube, he puts a convex on an Izula and it turns out razor sharp. Here's a link: http://www.youtube.com/user/BLUNTRUTH4U#p/search/6/eBBK-8tgmNI

I would say go with diamond stones, maybe start with a Lanksy or GATCO, and the move onto free hand to DMT diamond stones.
 
The Sharpmaker and learning how to use is it is a great idea but if it really came that dull i would want to send it back for an exchange, if thats possible.

That would've been ideal but I doubt they'd take it back after it's been through the pull-through sharpener.

I have tried the spyderco sharpmaker and it works will for knives that are already sharp and only need a touch up. But it might be very time consuming and difficult to put and edge on a dull Izula only with a Sharpmaker. You consider putting a convex edge on it. Check out Bluntruth4u on youtube, he puts a convex on an Izula and it turns out razor sharp. Here's a link: http://www.youtube.com/user/BLUNTRUTH4U#p/search/6/eBBK-8tgmNI

I would say go with diamond stones, maybe start with a Lanksy or GATCO, and the move onto free hand to DMT diamond stones.

That's a good point. The Sharpmaker is kind of slow to sharpen a very dull knife.
Here's the video embeded:
[youtube]eBBK-8tgmNI[/youtube] [youtube]aGPcwHdRRJ0[/youtube]
 
If I were you I'd get some nice waterstones or just any cheap stones (different grits) and learn how to do it freehand.
All of these different sharpening solutions cost a fortune in the long haul, because you end up trying them all and then you'll go over to freehand anyway.
I've owned many different systems but today I do it freehand and it is so worth the time that you put into it.
Once you know how it's done, it's cheap and you can do it anywhere and with any type of abrasive.
You are now at the crossroads of your knife enthusiast journey, so choose the wise road to travel.
 
Compromise, use paper wheels or the Worksharp Knife & Tool Sharpener(without the guides). It's freehand, and you'll be done in no time.
 
I second the Worksharp Knife and Tool Sharpener. I love that thing. I use it to fix my real dull and neglected knives, only takes a few minutes to get my edge to hair popping sharp. Then I use my Arkansas stones to maintain my edge.
 
I've tried the sharpening systems and they are ok but what works best for me is sand paper and a strop
 
If I were you I'd get some nice waterstones or just any cheap stones (different grits) and learn how to do it freehand.
All of these different sharpening solutions cost a fortune in the long haul, because you end up trying them all and then you'll go over to freehand anyway.
I've owned many different systems but today I do it freehand and it is so worth the time that you put into it.
Once you know how it's done, it's cheap and you can do it anywhere and with any type of abrasive.
You are now at the crossroads of your knife enthusiast journey, so choose the wise road to travel.
+1 It´s really that way: You spend a lot of money just because to come back on traditional ways. I have had the sharpmaker first but sold it. I use stones freehand and am able to sharpen any knife i want. I can get any stone i want. Get another cheap knife and some equipment and start learning. It´s fun. Get a ceramic rod and a steel too for the touch up.
 
Compromise, use paper wheels or the Worksharp Knife & Tool Sharpener(without the guides). It's freehand, and you'll be done in no time.

+1, so much faster. I would not recommend the sharpmaker for reprofiling. Hell even touching up a knife would dull anything which came off a paper wheel/belt sander setup!
 
For beginner sharpening I recommend a good basic bench stone, as it's less likely to do serious harm to your knife while you're getting a feel for the right angles to hold. I also suggest sharpening a few kitchen knives before trying your hand at your more expensive pieces.

When sharpening a typical knife you usually want to have about a 20-degree angle per side, which you can find by "floating" the knife over the stone at 90 degrees, halve that angle to 45 degrees, halve it again to 22.5 degrees, then back the angle off just a hair from there. Maintaining that angle, now make contact with the stone, making motions as if you were trying to cut a thin slice off the top of the stone moving from the base of the blade to the point. Be sure to do an equal number of strokes on both sides. To see if you're making contact properly against the stone, you can paint the edge with a permanent marker and see if you're removing the color uniformly, or if your angle is too steep or too shallow.
 
I can sharpen free hand and have to agree that it is faster once you learn to use them. However, if you're a novice I suggest the Sharpmaker. It's about $50 but good stones will likely cost as much. Also the Sharpmaker will give you a good idea of how a knife should feel when the correct angle is used. You can always move to stones later.
 
I have a smith's pocket pull-through sharpener...does yours have the folding diamond rod? If it does, you can use this to repair the edge freehand. The diamond rod on mine actually cuts very well. It won't look pretty afterwards but it will be functional...you probably won't get anywhere using the rod like a conventional stone but if you use it like a file (hold the knife steady and push the rod over the edge, or either make small circles with the rod on the edge or the edge on the rod) you should be able to get the knife usably sharp again. I use my pocket sharpener as a very effective field sharpener but have never used the pull through slots. They destroy the knife's edge. spend some time with it if it is your only method of sharpening and don't hurry.
 
Why inundate him with videos and recommendations of how to improve on the factory edge? He might even cut into the coating a bit, maybe he doesn't want to just yet. A beveled edge is just fine, and there is nothing wrong with just fixing what he has.

The edge has an angle, get a round diamond hone or ceramic rod and do your best to hold the same angle. I am recommending round for the Izula because the factory edge is not exactly straight. keep the same angle go from one side to the other and gently get a feel for the edge with each pass, I am sure if your sense of touch is ok, you will figure out where the burr is, and that you are moving a little metal back and forth with the hone. It will sharpen up with practice, you don't need alot of pressure to do this right, out of the box.

The ESEE 5 is about as big as they come. You might do yourself a favor and get into a few skinny knives to see the cutting performance difference. The ESEE-3 is my favorite and a workhorse, it doesn't take a ton of force to cut with it either, the grind makes it an easier cutter.

Welcome, there is a ton of information here at Bladeforums to aid you in your new hobby. :D Sharpening follows the same rules as cutting, keep the edge pointed and heading away from yourself and all of your digits.
 
Wow..thanks for all the great advice and VIDS. You guys are really helpful.

I should mention that these Knives are primarily for use for Camping, Hiking, Bush Craft etc. I was going to give the Sharpmaker a shot but my main concern is I would prefer to have something with me to Sharpen my Knives in the field that I can store easily in my Bag. I was also going to try the Sandpaper Method tonight since my Knife is pretty much unusable at this point. I figure I'll use this Knifeas my learning practice Knife and buy another in the future.

So what type of Sandpaper should I get? Or should I just try the Diamond Rod on my Smith Sharpener that was mentioned earlier. And can anyone recommend what type of Stones I should get? Is there a set or something?

Thanks.
 
The Sharpmaker and learning how to use is it is a great idea but if it really came that dull i would want to send it back for an exchange, if thats possible.

Sending back a knife because it came dull? Really?
 
For a field sharpener I like the DMT coarse/fine Diafold (the red and blue one). Folds down small, really light, and can be used like a file.
 
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