Problem with KME jaws (long)

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May 20, 2015
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106
Last night I tried to sharpen my new Endura 4 ZDP-189 to 15°. The manufacturer's bevel angle was >15°, as the Sharpmaker rods touched only the shoulders of the bevels, not the apex. The steel was way too tough to reprofile with the brown rods. Though I do have Congress tool ruby rods 320 grit which would have done the reprofiling quickly, they leave a few striations at the shoulders, a cosmetic issue I wanted to avoid.
Using the KME with the spherical rod guide mounted upside down and the knife held near the spine (narrow blade) I did get 13-14° as measured on an inclinometer. I went through the grits from 100 to 1500. Only after removing the blade from the jaws did I realize I had not reached the apex on one bevel. I had used the Sharpie, but the trace remnant at the edge was obscured by the metal chaff and not seen by my weak eyes. A resharpening was less successful. 15° on a narrow blade is difficult as the wings of the plastic knob just behind the jaws prevent a full stroke of the stone, at least on one side. Also, the u-shaped metal fixture that holds and clamps the jaws interferes and gets abraded by the stone at this low angle. The bump-and-grind of this second attempt caused the blade to shift in the clamp (despite tape on the spine), and you know the rest...
I'm going to find a round plastic knob of a smaller diameter to replace the clamping knob, but I don't know what to do about the jaw itself. I don't think the pen knife jaws address my difficulty, as the problem at this low angle is not the jaws but the u-shaped fixture holding them.
Having screwed the appearance of the blade, I'll use the Congress rods today and at least get a 15° bevel to smooth with the Sharpmaker.
ZDP-189 is a beast in my limited acquaintance. I ended the night with a reasonable 20° microbevel, smoothed as well as I could. It still caught on paper (chips or wire edge remnant?) but would probably saw through cardboard forever.
Has anyone dealt with this clamping issue and made a successful workaround?
Please forgive this long recounting of my abysmal adventure.
 
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Sorry that I'm unable to help but interested in the suggestions you receive.

I sharpened a Pacific Salt in my KME that I got used and didn't seem to have this issue. Unfortunately I don't remember what angle I reprofiled it too.
 
I've sharpened a lot of Spydercos on my KME, including several Delicas and Enduras and have never flipped the clamp.

If I had to guess, it seems like you are, as you said, a degree or two under the factory angle so you're essentially reprofiling. So that means grinding in a new apex and, as you've discovered, ZDP189, can be a cruel mistress. Many folks love it and swear it is easy to sharpen but I find it quite challenging.

If it were me, I'd probably stay at the coursest stone until I was confident I'd fully apexed the edge. You should be able to cut paper while it is in the clamp before moving on.

Not sure if that helps but hope so.
 
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I did use the ruby rods to reprofile to ~15° this morning. The cosmetic issue of rough-appearing bevels responded to side-sweeps tip to ricasso, using the Spyderco rods. The apex took a good edge with the Sharpmaker, medium, fine, and ultra fine rods in sequence. Stropping with a mixture of chromium and 1-micron diamond paste refined the edge, evidenced by better cutting of paper.
I'm considering replacing the three winged plastic knob with just a threaded nut to get more clearance if I run into the same problem at very low angles with narrow blades. I'd use a wrench to tighten and I'd use friction tape instead of masking tape on the spine to ensure better clamping. Enough, and thanks for your replies :)
 
Contact customer service , they are great ! explain what’s happening could be a defect if so they will be more than happy to send you a new part.
 
I had the same issue when reprofiling my Mules.
I used a right angle die grinder, with a sanding attachment, to put a 45 degree angle on the corners of the nob tabs.
It also helps to build up the tapered part of the spine with extra tape. Then the clamp will have an even purchase on the blade. Some full flat grinds can be a bugger.
 
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