Problems with marking an etched logo

Joined
Apr 27, 2014
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Ok, I'm a new member and this is my first post. I hope I chose the right area. Anyway, I have recently purchased a Personalizer Plus and am trying to etch, and mark the etch, for a contrasting logo. I get a good etch, and then switch to mark and usually get a good black mark. Next, I clean the blade with the cleaner to get all the electrolyte off as not to rust the blade. The cleaner seems to remove some, if not all, of the black oxidized mark. Any suggestions? I have tried to research the proper procedures, and have been practicing on early knives I have made, and on scrap steel. I really don't want to ruin a blade after putting all that work into it. Experience is the best teacher, and I would like to learn from anyone who is willing to share their experience.

Thanks!
 
Try using baking soda and water to neutralize and clean the etch. Then buff or hand sand to clean it up.
 
I've got the personalizer, not the plus model. What I do is normally etch for 2 minuets, then mark for 2 minuets, gives a nice deep stamp like etch. I learned this method after a lot of practice on scrap steel. As for neutralizing the etchant, I just use plain old windex on the blade and my stencil.
 
I had the same issue when I did my first couple and I am still learning how to do it but....

It seemed if i washed it and took to to the grinder/buffer right away to clean it up and put a final finish on it, the buffer and grinder would remove the black mark and leave no contrast.

I usually do for about 1.5 to 2 minutes of actual etch and mark times, but I lift up every 3 seconds or so. Sort of like a 1,2,3 Mississippi, lift, 4,5,6 Mississippi, lift, etc. So whatever time 90 Mississippi ends up being :) I don't count during the pauses.


I usually just go to the sink and use dish soap (it is also a base, just not as strong) and wash the etchant (sea-salt and water) off of the knife, then I let it sit for a while before doing anything.

As you can see, I get ok marks with my totally redneck marking system (two power supplies (AC and DC) from who knows where with alligator clips, salt water and a wood block with make up pads and rubber bands)

Also, these are 1084.


IMG_0333_zps13f278fd.jpg



DSC_0204_zps6cc6c934.jpg
 
I get good etches and darkness with a personalyser plus also. I use windex to clean the stencil and rinse in warm water and blot dry on clean paper towels. I run the etched blade under not real hot water for 10 seconds and all is well. If I mark too long and the stencil is getting old I have a fuzzy black outline of the logo and I just take a wood scrap with doubled over felt stapled to it and rub some fine white buffing compound on it and gently plane the etch until the hazy edges become sharp. This only happens once in a while so I know my timing for etch and mark are pretty good. I have a quart bottle of neutralizer from IMG in New York where I buy my etchant ( #91 ) but it is not good for the etched blade in my experience and windex cleans the stencils better. I can hold the stencil to the light after a spray and blot and see light filling the logo so I know my next etch will be good. The neutralyser just sits on the shelf and I won't use it. Maybe some of the other guys will have another opinion about how to do it...just my 2 cents. Larry PS In the past a lot of the knife makers have shared that they only use the mark setting which etches a bit also. I started out with that method and it works well for shallow etches with good black mark. LL
 
Chavez, Will, gsain, and Larry: Thank you all for taking the time to share your knowledge with an amateur. I will put it to use!
 
Are you forgetting to dunk the etching pad in the solution before you mark the etch? It will dry out significantly from the etch and you won't get an even mark.
 
On my folders I usually put the neutralizer (tsp and water) and then either WD-40
or Kroil before washing any of it off. After its clean and crisp I put 3 in one oil over
the etch and let it sit a few minutes.
Ken.
 
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