Problerm: soldering mokume gane

synthesist

So many knives so little time
Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Messages
933
I have pieces of Del Ealy's mokume that I've used to make some "fancy" Xmas jewelry. Looks gorgeous (and will look even better when it tarnishes over time) but this annoying *#$:?&**** material shrugs off my attempts at soldering on a ring or a pin. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

I suppose I could use J. B Weld but that will be my Plan B. It's too late at night to call Delbert but I may try to catch him tomorrow for technical support.

I cleaned them shiny bright with steel wool and 400 grit and then acetoned as a final step but the solder balled up and laughed at me. I tried several electrical solders and silver solder. No joy and now I'm in a bit of a time crunch since I'm having cataract surgery on Wednesday morning and will be outta commission at least a day. I thought I was doing great. Go figure huh?

Any speedy suggestions would be appreciated.

Merry xmas all

Corey "synthesist" Gimbel
 
What material is the MG made of ?

I wouldn't use steel wool as the steel may contaminate a non ferrous metal mix

I wouldn't use electrical solder as the rosin flux will probably not be compatible.

I would use low temp silver solder and a matching flux made by the same maker as the flux
Be sure the solder and the flux are made for the metal in the MG


If you're in a time crunch you will have no time to get proper stuff shipped, just take it to a good jeweler
 
Is it copper/brass Mokume? Try a little dab of paste flux for copper pipe:).

~Chip
 
Sand bright with 400 grit.
Clean with denatured alcohol.
Flux with a sliver soldering flux. ( not the low temp silver-bearing solder type flux) I really like Dandix paste flux.
Use easy silver solder (1235°F hard solder) to attach the finding. (Use silver or brass findings)
 
And more cleaning and flux.

Make sure you jeat the mokume from the opposite side and don't play the flame over the area being soldered. It will cause it to oxidize and won't solder.

With low temp solder, less heat is usually needed over more heat. The solder flows at 280-400F, depending on the type. For jewelry, it isn't sufficiently strong to hold up.

Hard silver solder is as strong as silver/brass and melts at 1200-1400F, depending on the grade.
 
It's a copper, brass and something else combination. 3 colors of metal anyway.

Okay then hard silver solder it is. Off to buy that now.

I was heating it from above and it did change color on me. I didn't realize what was going on and I think I was afraid I'd hurt the mokume with too much heat rather then not applying enough. First time soldering on this stuff. Always good to learn more.

Thank you all.

Happy holidays.

C
 
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