Products to maintain an axe

J

JLKII

Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Messages
123
I'm looking for advice on how to maintain an axe, both the metal blade and the handle.

Traditionally, blades were oiled or rubbed with wax, and handles were rubbed with raw linseed oil, but with all the advances in technology, I would ask if the forum members would share what they have found useful among more up-to-date products.
 
JLKII said:
I'm looking for advice on how to maintain an axe, both the metal blade and the handle.

Traditionally, blades were oiled or rubbed with wax, and handles were rubbed with raw linseed oil, but with all the advances in technology, I would ask if the forum members would share what they have found useful among more up-to-date products.
Click to expand...

Don't think much has changed then.... Most people still use linseed or other such oils to treat their handles. I personally use Tru-Oil which is a mix of linseed, turp and a few other oils. Generally when I receive axes, I rub the varnish or wax (in the case of GB) off them with fine sandpaper and try to get to bare wood. I then do a very thin coat of Tru-oil and burnish it with 0000 steel wool when it dries so it doesn't feel tacky. Whenever I feel the need to do some maintenance, I'll rough up the handle with 000, apply a very thin coat of Tru-Oil and then burnish with 0000.

As for the head, I just add a thin layer of mineral oil or rub it down with beeswax. There are other, better alternatives for rust prevention, but I like to know that what I'm putting on my cutting tool is safe in case I decide to use it for food prep.

Oh, and I polish up my sheaths with regular ol' shoe polish.

Here's Ray Mears on axe maintenance - that guy knows his stuff :thumbup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Awecx7n1bzQ
 
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i've heard of people dilling a hole in the bottom of the handle, lean the axe handle up and put linseed or something similiar in the hole and the handle soaking it up internally. supposed to help in wet climates alot.
 
mineral oil for the head

linseed oil for the handle

some very fine sand paper with a sponge backing (great for the contours of the axe handle)

and kerosene for cleaning up the handle and head after a good day of use in the woods.

i do this for all my axes (gransfor bruks wildlife, small forest, scandanavian) and also my tomahawks.

for maintaining the edge i use japanese water stones (grits 800, 1200, 4000 + nagura) and a file. i use a fallkniven dc4 and a leather strop in the field.
 
lots of good stuff here already - i split wood at my house; several chords 5 - 7 a year and friends help - i have 4 axes 2 mauls and a couple double bit axes - i do not have time for all that - once a year i wire wheel all the heads and then spray them with "DuPont Teflon multi-use dry wax lubricant" - goes on wet and dries quick -- works just fine -

Also on this thing about handles - i swing axes all year round - splitting a lot of wood and i find that a well used axe handle is one that has been rubbed with my own sweat from using it - that is the best handle available.
 
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also if you split wood regular -- the head wont have time to rust and if it does split some more wood it is self cleaning :thumbup:
 
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I use boiled linseed oil($5 a quart) for all my axe handles including my gun stocks. The "boiled" has drying agents in it so theres no worry of forever tackiness like with raw linseed oil that seems to never dry unless you live in the desert. After the linseed dries I use Kiwi beeswax boot treatment, but any beeswax will be fine. Works great on the leather too as intended. As a matter of fact I just did that today to my GB axe handles and sheath.:) Personally I think all the packaged "Birchwood Casey" and other formulas for treating steel, wood and leather are over priced poisons. If I have to wear gloves to protect myself then I have no use for it. Stick to the classic simple solutions used by older generations that wont harm you and your wallet.
 
they also make a Teflon coating to spray under your lawn mower to keep grass from sticking to the tabletop also inhibits rust -- works great on the heads -- can coat 6 or 7 lined up in under 2 minutes - last for a year or more except for striking surface -- good quick fix
 
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