Profile grinding- flat or wheel?

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Philadelph

Joined
May 23, 2008
Messages
115
What do you guys mostly grind your blade profiles on- flat platen or a wheel? If the wheel, what size? I've just heard that it's a bad idea to grind the shapes out on the flat platen because it'll put a lot of unnecessary wear on it. Is this a valid point? Thanks!
 
I use a flat platen but have a glass overlay. When it shows wear, I replace it. this works super for me. Frank
 
I dont use either, but from what i understand grinding on a wheel wont bog down the machine as much, and puts less tension on the belt. less friction. I think most people use an 8 inch wheel?
 
10" contact wheel for hogging and rough profiling. I only switch to my platen for the final square up of the profile. Just a smidgen is all I'm removing with my platen. For inside contours and edges that I can't get into with my 2" wide platen I'll use either my small wheel attachment with a side plate (to maintain square) or a 3/4" wide platen I made, using split belts. ;)

Platen wear,(I use a ceramic platen sold by Ellis) by using it as your primary profiling tool wouldn't be as much of a concern to me as the belt wear would be. You'll use considerably more belts profiling with your platen. A 70-80 durometer contact wheel is made for hogging and allows you to take full advantage of the high tech abrasive technology available. With enough pressure the contact wheel almost wraps around the edge you're grinding. When I'm using a 36 grit ceramic belt on my contact wheel it removes material so fast its scary :eek: ......... without wiping too much of the abrasive off the belt like the hard back platen could/would.
 
I will use my 10" serrated wheel with a semi used 36 or 60 grit norton blaze running pretty fast, if you take away small increments to yor line it goes away very quickly.

I also have a horizontal grinder which see's lots use.

For my flat platen I use standard plate glass from the shop here in town, the guy cuts me stuff from scrap and its free.

I was floating the glass on super thin glue, but found out that JB weld works better for me and cleans up faster for replacement. Make sure you build a shelf on the bottom of your platen that will prevent the glass from running through your contact wheels and flying allllll over your shop should you glue job fail and radius all your edges to prevent cracking.

Spencer
 
I am glad this was posted, I had no idea it would make belts last longer. Wonder how long it would take to pay off in saved belts. 10' wheels ain't cheap! better start looking now.
 
Tom, Grizzly has G9242 10" Aluminum /Rubber Wheel for $64.95. It doesn't come with bearings. It comes to key to a shaft. I have turned one out and inserted bearings. Others have made a short shaft and mounted on 2 pillow block bearings and mounted the bearings on a piece of plate that bolted to the grinders tool post. You can do it either way for around a $100 or so and some work.
 
Great advice guys thanks. I have a 12" serrated wheel that I'll use for most stock removal from now on until I get close to the lines, then take it to the platen. My belts thank you.
 
I use the 8" 10" and 14" inch wheels here. But mostly use the 10" wheel. To me it in the middle for grinding knives. You will get more miles out of your belts. :D
 
galadduin said:
I use rough shaping with a angle grinder, it really saves the belts :D

Emre
Click to expand...
Man, I do the same. :) I use fiber discs with 25 grid and rubber disc to hold them. When I do flat, I go on hollow to remove some material and make the edge thichness, than flaten everything with angle grinder. Disk grinder is the last.
 
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