Progress on Cantina Khuk

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Feb 21, 2001
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Several people had asked for pics of what I call the "Cantina Khukuri" that I'm trying to make. Heres my progress so far. I cut out 4 blanks, 2 of the Hanshee type and 2 of the "Berk" type. They looked a lot different in steel than on paper. I decided that I would grind one of the Hanshee type to start with. I knew this would take a lot of grinding, but wow. As much steel hit the slop bucket, as will be left on. The Kamis of course have this all figured out, as forging is much more efficient. The first picture is of my printed patterns, glued to the steel.

Steve
 
This picture shows cutting out the blanks on an old Rockwell bandsaw. It took about 2 hours to cut out the 4 blanks. The blade kept jumping off until I realized that it wasn't tight enough. Cutting 3/8" A-2 steel is fun! I put a short length of 2x4 between my chest and the work to push on it by leaning into it.

Steve
 
Finally got 4 cut out and started grinding one. Man this thing was heavy before I started grinding. On this first one, I ground a large fuller or concave groove almost the whole width of the blade, leaving about 3/4" for the convex edge in the belly. The convex edge tapers to about 3/8" wide at the tang. On the next one, the fuller will be narrower and shallower to give more heft to the blade. Don't get me wrong, the first one is still heavy enough!

Steve
 
that certainly is the mother of all stock removal tasks!

Can't wait to see it roughed out...

Keith
 
The last picture for today shows the finished grind on the blade. All that is left to do before heat treating is to drill and tap holes in the butt to hold the buttcap on, and taper the tang.


Decision time. What do you guys think about the bolster and buttcap? Stainless steel or brass? For the bolster I plan to pin on 2 pieces of metal like you might see on a hunting knife. Maybe grind them to resemble the traditional type. Possibly dovetail the handle material. I don't think I have the skills to make one in the traditional way.

As for handle material, I have some black micarta and black G10 on hand. Should I go with that (the micarta will polish up like horn) or go with a natural material like wood or antler?
 
Originally posted by ferguson
Decision time. What do you guys think about the bolster and buttcap? Stainless steel or brass?

As for handle material, I have some black micarta and black G10 on hand. Should I go with that (the micarta will polish up like horn) or go with a natural material like wood or antler?

Stainless Steel for the bolsters and Micarta for the handle material.
Micarta has a nice grain effect when left rough as well that I like.

Ferg you have a natural talent for grinding that you shouldn't let get away!!!!
 
Superb Fergusson!
Stainless Steel for the bolsters and Ebony of Macassar for the splits.
 
Nice!! I like those lines:) IMO those curves are prettier than the M43(Rob, runnning and taking cover within my claymore perimeter;) :p :D )
 
Steve:

I'm with Rob - great curves. Stainless and black micarta would be great.

S.
 
Thanks guys, Stainless and micarta it is on the first one. Will do some fancy woods on the next 3. The cho..... knew there was something I forgot;)
Actually, because of mistakes in the grinding, I don't think there will be room on this first one.:( Also, for some reason, I have a funny feeling about using a cho. I don't know, it's kinda like I don't have the right to put one on since I'm not a kami. Sounds kinda corny, since if there is any religious or spiritual meaning to the cho, it has been lost to history. I may change my mind, any thoughts?

Steve
 
I LIKE IT!!!:cool: :D :eek: Those lines are really sleak and flowingly clean. Is it my eyes, or is the blade hollow ground in the center like a huge fuller? If so that is even more kick'n. Either way, GOOD JOB ! I hope we get to see this continuing work in progress!
 
Originally posted by ArchAngel
Is it my eyes, or is the blade hollow ground in the center like a huge fuller? If so that is even more kick'n.

Yep, That's what it is. Got a little carried away grinding, but I think it will work out ok. It still has plenty of mass.;)

Steve
 
Steve, if you want to go with horn, you can get horn slabs from Texas Knifemaker's Supply, but I have to admit micarta is probably far more stable and durable. Dadgum that thing's pretty, I had high expectations, but you've surpassed them. Tell you what, when you get time, how about whipping me out a Kagnes Katne in D2?:D ;)

Greg
 
I think that a stainless for the bolsters and buttcap is in order for sure. Micarta would also be my choice for the handle slabs. Maybe Jerry Busse would let you in on where he gets some of that awesome micarta that he uses. Some of his sculpted designs in the micarta are as impressive as the awesome grinds he does on the blades. I bet with your talent, you could come up with some sort of good grabby texture to the slabs, while avoiding so much texture that it hurts to use heavily. I look forward to seeing the project complete.:cool:
 
Steve? TWO things:

1st thing: I meant to, or maybe did (losing things these days), offer some crown stag antler (white-tail deer) if you can give dimensions.


2nd thing: For a "CANTINA Khukri", I can't think of a more appropriate cho design than a bottle-opener.

Beautiful work.
 
I think not...

Originally posted by ArchAngel
I think that a stainless for the bolsters and buttcap is in order for sure. Micarta would also be my choice for the handle slabs. Maybe Jerry Busse would let you in on where he gets some of that awesome micarta that he uses. Some of his sculpted designs in the micarta are as impressive as the awesome grinds he does on the blades. I bet with your talent, you could come up with some sort of good grabby texture to the slabs, while avoiding so much texture that it hurts to use heavily. I look forward to seeing the project complete.:cool:

A good, grippy texture can be achieved with plain 'ol indestructable canvas micarta. Love the stuff. I have 2 custom knives with that stuff on them, and they're as hard as a rock, tough as old boots. No need for any special texturing and/or polishing. It's grippy enough as it is, even when wet, soappy, you name it...
 
We had an ice storm last week here in North and South Carolina that knocked out power to over 2 million people. Kinda puts a damper on the knifemaking when you're just trying to stay warm and dry. Hope to pick up on this project some this weekend. Would like to get another ground, so I can send 2 to be heat treated.

Thanks for the interest,

Steve
 
Switch to a forge. You can work on knives and it'll help keep you warm. No electricity -- how are you running the computer and posting?
 
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