Project knife advice please. Already scratched the blade.

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Sep 21, 2010
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I have an old CRKT Crawford Kasper. Now I wish I had never messed with it since I can't find a replacement of this type before the current ones made now. I stripped the coating with fine sand paper. Then I used my dremel to grind away the serrations since I wanted a plain edge. Big mistake. Dremel slipped several times resulting in deep scratches. Now I have a flex shaft on order in hopes this will not slip again.

Now what? Should I get fine grit paper to use with the dremel to try and remove the sratches? I have no access to a bench grinder or buffer.

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You could do the Poor Man's Stone Wash treatment to cover up those marks. It's simple and a cheap fix.
You could also get some wet dry sandpaper and start working them down and you may never get them out completely.
Dremells are bag about slipping even with a flex shaft.

Just use it and go on is another option. Make up a story about how those marks go there.
 
Those look like "Beautiful hand etched freeform design elements" to me! Live, learn and just enjoy your one-of-a-kind customized knife. Getting rid of serrations with a Dremel was a bold undertaking.
 
You could do the Poor Man's Stone Wash treatment to cover up those marks. It's simple and a cheap fix.
You could also get some wet dry sandpaper and start working them down and you may never get them out completely.
Dremells are bag about slipping even with a flex shaft.

Just use it and go on is another option. Make up a story about how those marks go there.
not familiar with the stonewash process. Is there a tutorial on this?
 
Those look like "Beautiful hand etched freeform design elements" to me! Live, learn and just enjoy your one-of-a-kind customized knife. Getting rid of serrations with a Dremel was a bold undertaking.
I like the positive outlook :) at the time I started this I thought it would be easier
 
The Proxxon 38536 is a small hand held belt sander. But for the price you could get full size one.
 
you're going to need a belt sander for sure to get the marks out. you will also be able to make the edge look a lot nicer if you had one. a dremel tool is ok to do some work with but not what you are wanting to do. they are way too hard to control and even worse at the high speed setting.
 
Depending on the depth of those scratches, removing them might thin the blade too much. Maybe just leave it there, especially if you plan it to be a user.

I don't have power tools, so I use stones & sandpaper and lots of patience. Read the oher thread about scratches = valleys in the metal. Removing them = making the plains as low as the scratches :www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthre...-of-Stones-Removing-Previous-Scratch-Patterns
 
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Very bold indeed. If you really hate them try the stonewash, or maybe a blade coating like duracoat might help hide them.
I don't think that you would want to remove enough material to get the grooves out, it would make the blade very very thin, and I think you'd have a heck of a time keeping it even on both sides.
 
I would suggest finishing up the edge and get back to using your knife to cut things. :)

Alternatively, you could invest in a belt sander to try to grind out the "oopsies", but I would not worry about it personally. I have a Spyderco Endura with similar issues. Still cuts very well and now it has a friction deployment feature on the spine infront of the Spyderco trademark round hole. ;)
 
I would suggest finishing up the edge and get back to using your knife to cut things. :)

Alternatively, you could invest in a belt sander to try to grind out the "oopsies", but I would not worry about it personally. I have a Spyderco Endura with similar issues. Still cuts very well and now it has a friction deployment feature on the spine infront of the Spyderco trademark round hole. ;)

Can you tell more about friction deployment feature? Is it wave?
 
Get that dremel back out, put on a cutting disc and cut a sharpening choil in that sucker!

Then go to the hardware store and get an 8" stone and get that grind even!

I've found that removing serrations requires a significant amount of reprofiling the blade, set a simple rig to use with the 8" stone and grind the blade a bit thinner.
 
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