Project Rat.....DuraCoat!

Solstice

Gold Member
Joined
May 27, 2005
Messages
4,616
Well she’s seen everything else why not go back full circle and put a coating back on it! Black this time….ya know just to be different.

Some of you might remember this one; it’s been a project knife of mine for quite some time now. It’s had the handle slabs thickened up, the coating removed, satin finish, double cut finish, edge re-ground, teeth re-done, and now a re-coat. DuraCoat to be exact. Someone brought this coating up awhile back in a thread here on the Busse forum and I thought that maybe it was time for me to try something new and the way this Rat kept getting rust spots, I figured what the hell….Coat It! DuraCoat has about a hundred different colors and that doesn’t include the camo stuff, but I went with a matte black. The kit I bought comes with everything you need and ran about $60.00 to my door. They say that there’s enough coating to do 3 to 4 rifles. I think a more accurate estimate would be about 2 rifles. But, I wasn’t doing a rifle so I figure after what I know now I could do around 5 or 6 mid size knives. Of course that would be after the learning experience of the one knife I’ve done…..2 times! Yeah, it didn’t quite turn out the way I wanted it to the first time. I ended up having to remove the first attempt and do it over again. Even the second attempt didn’t come out anywhere near factory in appearance, but it’s going to be a user so it suits my needs just fine.

The trick is to be patient. Do a good job on taping. Spray a thin coat, let dry and then spray another coat. This has to be done several times; otherwise the coat won’t be thick enough. If you try to go too fast the DuraCoat will run and you’re pretty much screwed if that happens. You then have to let the stuff dry and remove it so you can start over. This is what happened to me. Drying can be done overnight or in your kitchen oven (your wife will love you for it, it smells great!). The longer you let it cure the tougher it gets, they recommend 5 to 7 days. And let me tell you….this stuff is tough! I sanded the first attempt off just to see how difficult it would be and it required 80 grit sandpaper and some real effort. Of course one of the reasons for this was my first attempt was way too thick; I wasted a lot of product.

Cons:
Well if you’ve ever air brushed or done any kind of similar painting (cars, models, graffiti etc) then you’ll do fine. I haven’t so it took me awhile to get the adjustment of the air brush and the technique right. The airbrush propellant was completely worthless. The fittings leaked and it kept freezing up on me. Getting the right mixture (not too thick or too thin) was a little tricky. Clean up and handling the stuff the first time around was a freaking mess. Still need to figure a better way to keep the DuraCoat off the edge! Determining how many coats to apply was difficult; cause if you go too thick with this stuff it feels like your knife has a rubber coating on it.

Pros:
Well the biggest Pro is I like the ability to recoat my knives when the factory one has worn off, and on high carbon knives it’s freaking important to have a coating. For some I’m sure the color selection and camo ability is a good thing. Once you’ve done one, the next one is very quick and painless. That includes all the prep and clean up. I wrote the mixture down for my weather and airbrush, so I won’t have to figure that out again. I now know how many thin coats to apply to get the coating thickness right. I have an air compressor with an adjustable regulator, and they include fittings for hookup. The coating is just as tough and maybe (testing/time will tell) tougher. If you do it right the feel of this stuff is very similar to the old smooth coated Busses, and it looks every bit as good.

Will I use it again? You bet. Would I recommend it? Well, if you enjoy this kind of “do it yourself” thing and you have some reasonable amount of patience, then yeah I would suggest giving it a try. Heck it’s $60.00, some of us spill more than that in a week.

Too long of a post again…oh well. Here are the pictures.







duracoat_miniunclemojoproject002.jpg


duracoat_miniunclemojoproject003.jpg


duracoat_miniunclemojoproject004.jpg


duracoat_miniunclemojoproject005.jpg


duracoat_miniunclemojoproject007.jpg


duracoat_miniunclemojoproject008.jpg


duracoat_miniunclemojoproject011.jpg


duracoat_miniunclemojoproject009.jpg
 
looks good to me.

ive considered sending in a few of mine for coatings, but i dont have the skill or patience to try it at home.

well done!
 
I read about half of this and ran outta patience, so I'm guessing that I shouldn't try this... ;) :D:D JUST KIDDING!! Sorry, I couldn't resist typing that whan I read the end of your post, ;)LOL!

Hey, Solstice, looks good!!! Thanks for the tips. :D:thumbup::thumbup: Let us know how the new coating holds up. :thumbup:
 
If you wanted to get a perfect line near the edge, could you just coat the edge, then sharpen it off (like some mouse pad convex, or glass plate sandpaper for a non convexed). Isn't that how they do factory coats? put it on the whole thing, edge included and then sharpen it off?
 
If you wanted to get a perfect line near the edge, could you just coat the edge, then sharpen it off (like some mouse pad convex, or glass plate sandpaper for a non convexed). Isn't that how they do factory coats? put it on the whole thing, edge included and then sharpen it off?

I use a wet stone wheel sharping system and I didn't want to fill my wheel with this stuff. But yes, I could have done something along the lines that you mentioned. The second time around I coated the edge with wax, which work but the appearance isn't real attractive...the wax didn't go on in a perfect line. I may try to tape it next time. Time consuming but it should work the best.
 
Looks good :thumbup: Let us know how that coating holds up with use.
 
Maybe send your comments back in to the kit manufacturer so they can make the airbrush part more user friendly?

I think 'high carbon blades' have survived for a few hundred years without coatings, so I don't understand your comment about that, and on INFI no less? The INFI info page goes on, and on, about it's better corrosion resistance in the field under working conditions than most other steels in the knife industry. Are you saying this is'nt what you are experiencing with your uncoated INFI blades? It sounds like you are'nt a satin finish fan on blades.
 
Maybe send your comments back in to the kit manufacturer so they can make the airbrush part more user friendly?

I think 'high carbon blades' have survived for a few hundred years without coatings, so I don't understand your comment about that, and on INFI no less? The INFI info page goes on, and on, about it's better corrosion resistance in the field under working conditions than most other steels in the knife industry. Are you saying this is'nt what you are experiencing with your uncoated INFI blades? It sounds like you are'nt a satin finish fan on blades.

The Rats aren't made of INFI. And it's true, I've not had problems with A2, D2, O1 and others but I have had some real problems with S7, and some spotting and surface rust with the Rat steel.

But, I've never had any problem with INFI what so ever. Just like the Combat Site says....not suposed to be rust resistant but it sure as hell is!:thumbup:

And, Yes...I'm a big fan of satin blades. In fact satin and DC finishes are my favorites.
 
Back
Top