propane regulation

ScottRoush

ScottRoush

Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
1,818
For those running propane off of a larger tank (I have a 120 gallon set outside my shop), are you running any kind of regulator attached to your tank required by your propane provider? I was running straight tank pressure into my shop to my 0-30 psi regulator for a vertical, forced air forge (74 cfm blower). The propane delivery folks help me set up, but I was just notified by the safety officer that I can only run 5psi into a building.. but they would allow a 10 psi reg on my main tank. This might work fine for forging, but it might be pushing it for welding??
 
I think this is pretty much SOP. Having a step-down regulator AT THE TANK is essential safety because ordinary plumbing pipe isn't made to handle that kind of pressure and if it ruptures there's hell to pay. 11 water column inches is the max inside the building, as far as I know. Gotta use a BBQ bottle for your forge, alas. And that is definitely non-kosher indoors by the fire code. But then, so is having oxy-acetylene bottles indoors, too....
 
interesting the propane installation guys never mentioned this. Sounds like safety-wise I should at least have another 0-30 psi at the tank, but that still won't be regulation.

But.... with my forge set-up do you think the 10psi will be enough for forge welding?

I probably won't have a choice....
 
does anybody else have input on this? I'm gonna have to make a decision about whether or not I can continue to run this 120# tank...
 
Ununderstand-- you say the propane people told you 10psi was not allowed. Whatever, I think it all depends mainly on your forge design, how efficient it is, how well it holds heat. Mine is atmospheric, no blower, running at 12 psi at first, then down around 7 to 10 or so, justtwo jets going into a small firebrick box open at both ends, gets plenty hot enough at 7,000 feet above sea level-- after a while to heat up the bricks-- for forging fairly heavy stock (1/2x2" is the largest so far). I have not tried it for welding, but suspect I would need to add doors, maybe caulk the chinks, add some cladding. I doubt that 5 psi will be enough. But what do you have to lose by trying it? You are already set up except for the tank gauge. Can't you switch the forge gauge to the tank?
 
I agree, my first forge was a venturi and I ran alittle more than 10 psi to hit welding heats. Now I use a blown vertical forge and I only need 5psi to get welding heats. I also noticed my blown vertical forge will not freeze up a 40lb bottle like my venturi forge would when welding. Therefore if you do not have a blown forge get or create one and keep your bottle outside, I wish I could go that route.
CW
 
I have a 300 gal tank and is straight piped into the shop, no regulator on the tank. But don't need the high pressure, I run blown vertical forges that require less than 5 lbs. I do have an NC forge (venturi), but it never sees more than 10 lbs.
 
Put a 0-30 PSI regulator at the tank.Set it to run around 10 PSI. Have another regulator inside to control the forge pressure. Convert to a blown burner and 10 PSI will be an excess.
 
thanks fellas. It is a forced air and I run a 75 cfm blower. I can't switch the reg to the outside because I use it for adjustments! But it did occur to me to switch things around for when they are coming to fill! I'm not worried about the safety of the tank pressure in the lines because it is all 3/4" pipe inside the shop going directly to my 0-30. If anything blew, it would be outside with the short piece of copper going to the pipe.

But it sounds like I might be okay to just go with their 10# reg... if they let me. that's not really up to code either but he said it was an option. If they decide to ignore the whole thing (the guy told me that is what they might decide to do), then I will just buy another 0-30 for the tank.

So Don, are you paying off your provider or do they not have these local zoning regs in the Ozarks???
 
Mossanimal said:
does anybody else have input on this? I'm gonna have to make a decision about whether or not I can continue to run this 120# tank...
Click to expand...


You know I have input - you saw what I had. I have a regulator on my 100 gallon tank that steps it down to 9 PSI before it enters my shop piping.
Then a low pressure regulator at the end of my supply line that regulates the pressure to a needle valve at both forges.
And don't forget to have shut-offs everywhere you can think of.
At the tank, before it goes into the building, after it goes into the building, at the regulator at the end of the supply line, and at the forge.
Anyone who runs full pressure directly into their building seriously needs to re-think what they have just done. If there is ANY! kind of rupture in the line, they've got a serious blow torch that can change their life in only seconds. I mean, it's only a regulator for goodness' sake, and could make the difference between having a nice day or watching everything you own go up in smoke.
Safety and control is the only way to go.
 
bladsmth said:
Put a 0-30 PSI regulator at the tank.Set it to run around 10 PSI. Have another regulator inside to control the forge pressure. Convert to a blown burner and 10 PSI will be an excess.
Click to expand...

I do my forge welding at about 4 1/2 psi with a blown burner.
 
Karl... Thanks. I saw your set up inside, but not outside. I thought you had a high pressure (0-30) on your outside which wouldn't be allowed for me... that's why I've been looking into how others do it.

I agree about having the regulator, I'm not trying NOT to get one. I was just trying to find out what pressure rating I could use and have my forge still operational. A step down to 9 psi is not up to zoning code for me, but they may allow me to get away with that. But they may force me to use 5 psi.

Also.... I have all the shut downs you mention inside my shop, but the propane supplier hooked up the outside portion of things. I guess I shouldn't always assume the pros know what they are doing. It looks like there is not a lot communication between the delivery folks and the safety inspector.
 
Really Karl? I thought "0" would be NO pressure. but how about 30??? 30 goes significantly beyond what is legal to pump into an enclosed building and would not be allowed by my zoning. Sorry if I used the wrong terminology, but I thought you had the typical Fisher 0-30 on your main tank. I'm guessing then that you have a 9 psi regulator provided by your supplier then. Which is the answer I'm looking for because that is what I may end up with.
 
Mossanimal said:
So Don, are you paying off your provider or do they not have these local zoning regs in the Ozarks???
Click to expand...
No zoning regs, building codes, inspectors, or anything here :D

I built a manifold at the back wall where the main line hooks up. There are 3 valves inside at the manifold, that I have 3 forges hooked up to. I only open the valve for the forge I'm running. All valves are closed when I'm not forging. Have been running this way for 10 years.
 
I had to go through this again when I set up my new shop. For me all I had to do was ask for an adjustable regulator at the tank, and they put one in, and that one is a 0-30. I have a blown forge and it runs best drawing off 1.5-2lbs, but I like a little blocked line pressure. I was running my previos one with 5 lbs of blocked line, but this tank is further away and seems to run better at 7 lbs. I have hard line running all the way to my forge, and it only runs about 4 ft into my building.
Thanks,
Del
 
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