Proper Sharpmaker technique? FAQ?

[Sobriquet]

I know a lot of you gentlemen use a Sharpmaker. Is there a FAQ somewhere or a definitive How-To on how to get the best results from the system? I hear a lot about "hair popping sharp," can you achieve that on the Fine white rods, or do you need to get the ultra-fine stones?

My Sharpmaker 204 is rather old - I got it when they came with VHS tapes. The only problem is I don't have a VCR anymore. lol

I have a Benchmade 710D2 that I use for EDC. Should I leave well enough alone and not mess with it, or is there more to be had from the blade? I have the diamond rods, the grey rods, and the fine white sticks.

 

[Sobriquet]

I'm considering ordering an Edge Pro Apex after reading some of the threads from this forum. My concern is how well it works on: (1) recurve blades like my Benchmade 710D2, and; (2) large chef's knives which will get sharpened much more often.

Will the waterstones that come with an Edge Pro Apex be able to sharpen SG2 powdered steel? I have an 8" Shun Kaji Fusion that I might sharpen myself rather than send in if the edge pro was able to do it without harming the knife.

Finally, if the Edge Pro Apex is for me... which package do I get?

Thanks, gentlemen.

 

[nokia]

I don't know if this will help to much and I am sorry in advance if it does not.

To me, it sounds like you are having doubts about sharpening your knives. The only thing I could think of it spring on a course/fine Indiana stone and learn how to freehand. You can get a knife much sharper, IMHO, and its more relaxing in the end.

But, if you insist on using a system, then I think to edge pro will fill out your needs.

I have used the Sharpmaker to sharpen my Buck 110 and I guess it is a hit or miss as to whether you would enjoy it. Like I said, I used it and ended up not liking it so much, maybe because I didn't really know what I was doing.

Ahh, the time gets ahead of me, I was in the middle of getting ready to go when I was browsing the thread.

Best of luck to you sir, Hope this helps at all.

 

[StretchNM]

The thing about the Sharpmaker is that it only has two set angle slots for sharpening: 15deg and 20deg. It can be modified to handle angles inbetween and to either side, but let's just stick to basics.

I have yet to buy a blade (that I can think of) where the secondary grind (edge) is ground at precisely 15 or 20 degrees. In fact, rare if ever is it that both edges are ground at the same angle. Why does this matter when a few degrees on either side don;t "really matter"? Well, they do matter. When you have many knives, it doesn;t fit well to have to know which knife likes which exact angle for that scary-sharp edge. The answer?: re-grind your edges to a couple or few set angles.

What I do is re-grind the edge on some knives to about 12-1/2 degrees. Then, I use the 30degree (15 deg) holes on the sharpmaker each time for that knife. Each steel takes it own number of strokes on the medium rods (if you let it go that far) based on hardness, condition of the edge, and sharpness when starting.

On most of my knives, the edge rarely needs to go to the medium rods - the fine rods suffice. A few light strokes, say 10 on one side then ten on the other. Then 5 and 5. Then 5 again going one stroke per side. Strokes are light and smooth. There is no "slapping" of the knife against the stone at the beginning of each stroke. There is care taken near the tip to prevent the tip slipping off and rounding. There is care taken during the stroke to rotate my wrist to match the belly curve. The strokes end feather light - just barely touching the stone on the last three or so strokes.

Then there's stropping. I've never got a hair "popping" edge right off the fine stones (maybe I need to get a set of ultra-fines). I go to a wood-backed leather strop loaded with green chromium oxide. Smooth, light strokes, again 10 on one side, ten on the other, then alternating.... all at the correct angle. When I'm lucky, this is what gives me a hair "popping" edge (will "pop" [cut]) hairs when the knife is slowly skimmed about 1/8" off the surface of my arm. On Scandi and convex edges, I'll often move to the 6" bench grinder with a muslim wheel loaded with green or white. This leaves my Scandi-grinds with an edge that truly scares me...frightens me.

There's nothing wrong with the Sharpmaker. IT IS A BENCHSTONE, (propped up at an angle). It's fast and easy, but it takes a little work until you say "Oh. I see." At least, it did for me.

 

[rifon2]

I really like a lot of what StretchNM wrote in the post just above - especially about taking care not to blunt the tip, and about using a strop to finish.

In my view you should definitely feel comfortable with your Sharpmaker technique before using it to sharpen your 710.

There are several excellent YouTube videos showing the correct use of the Sharpmaker; I'd check some of them out. Then I'd get a couple of decent, inexpensive knives and work with them on the Sharpmaker till you feel comfortable using it and getting the edge you desire.

It took me a long time to learn to use the Sharpmaker properly - but when I finally got the technique right I was amazed at what a great sharp edge it produces.
To use an old cliche, it's kind of like riding a bike. You've got to learn and practice but once you "get it" it's pretty easy and stays that way.