I am beginning to make slipjoints(made about 20) and am wondering about the proper tension of the spring. How hard do you think it should be to pull balde out? I make both knicks and long pulls. Nail breaking? Easy for the old lady to pull? After a couple hundred pulls...how much should the action relax? I think this is primarily a function of smoothng the small galling that happens on the first few pulls. Thanks.
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Proper walk and talk
- Thread starter John L
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Go buy a Victorinox Soldier. That's my feel as to a perfect tension. Secure, but not too hard.
I couldn't agree more!
I think on todays production market, Victorinox is a benchmark of fit and finish, and spring tension. :thumbup:
My nails may be weaker than others, but I find I have to pinch the blades on a lot of custom slippies to open them. I have a Gary Crowder trapper that I can open using the nail nicks and I'm very happy with that. I also have a Hiroaki Ohta slippie that I can open to the half stop using the nail nick and I have to pinch the blade to open it the rest of the way. I love that knife and carry it frequently. All blades feel secure in the open position.
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That makes 3 of us! Victorinox does it right,I've handled over 40 and all have been exellent.Never had a spring get lazy on a vic either.
Will Power
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Certainly no nail splitters please! Rail Splitter, maybe...Nothing worse than a knife you cant open except with pliers!
KnifeHead
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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After opening and closing a few customs and production slips of all kinds and vintage I think there are too many variables to adequately come up with good answers for you. It's going to depend on the kind of knife you make, pull position, blade size, the way you shape the tang, etc. Small knives are easier to open than big knives, right?
I would lean more towards making a knife that is safe to use rather than making it too easy to open. A positive lockup is better IMHO. Good examples of this are found in many knives made by old knife companys like NY Knife Co., Cattaraugus, KA-BAR, and generally speaking, knives made at a time when knives were a necessity of daily life.
Another thing, you shouldn't have galling between the blade and spring. If that is occuring then you are going to get excessive wear there and no amount of oil will keep the action from getting worse over time. Properly finished and HT'd blades and springs don't gall as far as I am aware of.
Anyway, that's my thoughts on the subject. Your mileage may vary.
I would lean more towards making a knife that is safe to use rather than making it too easy to open. A positive lockup is better IMHO. Good examples of this are found in many knives made by old knife companys like NY Knife Co., Cattaraugus, KA-BAR, and generally speaking, knives made at a time when knives were a necessity of daily life.
Another thing, you shouldn't have galling between the blade and spring. If that is occuring then you are going to get excessive wear there and no amount of oil will keep the action from getting worse over time. Properly finished and HT'd blades and springs don't gall as far as I am aware of.
Anyway, that's my thoughts on the subject. Your mileage may vary.
Kerry: WHat hardeness are your springs? I shoot for 50rc on springs and about 59-60 on blades. It seems like they gall a bit for the first couple times around and then OK after that. What grit should the areas that touch be brought ?.....400 or so? Thanks
KnifeHead
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Rc49 is what we shoot for but no higher than Rc50. Blade hardness is ok. and 400 grit is right in the area of the walk. You shouldn't be galling.
Do you ever operate the blade without oiling it? (sorry..had to ask
) The other thing I suppose that could be causing it is overloading the spring. Other than that, you should be good.
I think one thing to remember in making a slip joint, is that there is going to be times when the owner is going to have to open it under less than ideal conditions. It may be cold, or wet, or both. Its one thing with dry hands in the shop,but out in a cold winter day, peeling the damp outer layer off some kindling, it could be another.
I guess that why I use the sak's as a benchmark, they are not too hard, but enough snap to hold it open durring most use. I've looked at pocket knives in the store that I may have been interested in buying, but they were borderline nailbreakers, so I passed on them.
I guess that why I use the sak's as a benchmark, they are not too hard, but enough snap to hold it open durring most use. I've looked at pocket knives in the store that I may have been interested in buying, but they were borderline nailbreakers, so I passed on them.