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- Aug 2, 2011
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The one in question looks to be about 25deg. I was thinking about putting about a 40deg. micro bevel on the back side will this work? I have a E.P. sharpener.
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Proper way to sharpen a chisel grind blade?
- Thread starter flraptor07
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If you've got an EP, I'd think that matching the existing blade angle as best you can, then using a strop or one of the fine-grit stones (I'd probably use the 600) freehand to remove the burr with as close to zero angle as possible would be the best bet... Was the edge breaking down on you unacceptably fast?
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- Jan 9, 2011
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You can stay with the original bevel or add a microbevel on either side. I'd try sharpening the main bevel if possible with more pressure on the edge, if it is close to sharp that should do it. A microbevel on the back will steepen the effective angle making it a stronger grind, it won't slice quite as well but it can take a lot of abuse that way and is sometimes more versatile.
Stropping the back of the main grind is the way to go for upkeep if you keep the original chisel grind.
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if you put a 40° micro on the back you'll end up with 65° inclusive angle.
anyway if you want a microbevel for edge retention or strength at whatever angle you want, grind it on the beveled side and keep deburring on the flat as close to 0° as possible. if not you'll have something that will have all the cons of a chisel grind without the few pros ... due to the overal main grind your blade will still tend to deviate when cutting thicker material and because of your bevel on the flat side you'll lose the ability to do thin shavings with the flat against the material (where chisel blades usualy excel).
in fact i can't think of any good reason to place the micro bevel on the flat.
anyway if you want a microbevel for edge retention or strength at whatever angle you want, grind it on the beveled side and keep deburring on the flat as close to 0° as possible. if not you'll have something that will have all the cons of a chisel grind without the few pros ... due to the overal main grind your blade will still tend to deviate when cutting thicker material and because of your bevel on the flat side you'll lose the ability to do thin shavings with the flat against the material (where chisel blades usualy excel).
in fact i can't think of any good reason to place the micro bevel on the flat.
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2011
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- 141
Thanx for your replies, all were very informative. This knife gets used/abused in a very utility manor in my shop cutting almost everything including deburring tubing! lol so the stronger the edge the better, also this is the knife that I did the stone washing experiment with so the edge was extremely beat up. I ended up copying the original angle (which like I said was about 25deg.) then doing a micro bevel (for edge strength) on the back side @ about 15deg. instead of the 40deg I was originally going to do. So now I have about a 40deg. inclusive angle instead of the 65deg. that I would have had with my original plan. We'll see how this holds up, I'll let ya'll know how it goes. THANX AGAIN for your help!
i would only sharpen the side with the main bevel and leave the flat side alone. i make chisel grind knives and i put a half convex edge on them which is a lot sharper than half a v edge. check out some of my vids at my website and you'll see what i mean. this knife here has a half convex edge http://knifetests.com/kII.html