D2 is a great steel. It doesn't rust much at all, I use it constantly, it never has rusted here in CT and PA. It holds a great edge, and i mean a wicked edge. Shaves very easily and smoothly. I use it for small knives at rockwell 60/61 from Paul Bos w/cryo treatment. I have had no probs with it chipping out, and it isnt as hard to sharpen as the CPM stuff. Also, it is a lot easier to work than the CPM stuff. And much cheaper generally than the CPM stuff. I read in Blade mag a machine shop guy uses it for 3 to 4 months as a box opener and utility knife before sharpening it, and many people like it for hunting knives. Rust is a relative statement. Almost any HP/mirror finish blade resists rust better than a coarser finish, or a sandblasted finish. Bead Blast(ceramic beads) help too close the pores in the steel to prevent rust. I sold a 1095 knife w/BB finish to a guy in FL who was working in a supermarket as a utility knife, no rust yet at all.
Get a sharpmaker or diamond stone, and sharpening wont be a prob. or get a 1x30 and a 120 belt, 220 belt, and a home made strop. Hair popping edge and real quick, like 2, 3 min tops, and with it, u can make a lot of $$ sharpening knives for other people.
As for toughness, D2 isn't the toughest steel. A2, 5160, L6, etc are tougher, but has less wear resistance, and isnt as rust resistant. D2 is very close to stainless, with 12% Chromium, and 14% is officially stainless. For smaller blades, like 4 or 5" general utility, or hunting knives, with some SD tasks, D2 is plenty tough. But for heavier use, A2 might be a better choice. The CPM stuff, i heard it was pretty brittle and tended to chip out, I dont know if they have gotten those probs fixed, but the sharpening angle and HT make a big difference with those factors. 3V is a VERY tough steel, too, but not stainless.
Another way to go is have a custom kabar made with a different steel. Some makers would prob be able to do that. I only do full flat grinds now, with a rare saber grind, but i dont do stick tang leather handles. there was a guy in the 89 or 90 Knives book that made an A2 Kabar...looked great!
with the D2 kabar, sharpening prob wont be too bad, but its a saber grind, so after a few sharpenings, the edge will be getting thicker and thicker. Full flat grind or hollow would be a tad better, but may make the blade not as tough, due to a thinner blade. As for the edge holding, it depends on the rockwell and HT, but i love the way D2 cuts and holds an edge. As for toughness, beating the heck out of it, and trying to use it as a prybar isnt the best idea. Thats what Cold Steel and Strider knives are for. Sharpened Pry Bars
All in all, I love D2. Full flat ground D2 knives for hunting or utility cut great and take a very nice edge, but for a larger camp/sd knive, I would go with 3V with a rust resistant coating, or maybe even A2. If you want to talk more about D2, give me an email!
