Protect 01?

Daniel Moore

Daniel Moore

Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
2,790
I have an etched 01 fixed blade and there are a lot of light brown blotches forming (despite my mineral oil efforts). I know this is normal for 01, but could I protect the blade from oxidation with a potato/tomato/mustard/mayonnaise etc patina? I don't mind staining the whole blade, but I don't want oxidation that continues to form over time, if that makes sense/is feasible.

Thanks :cool:
 
You can patina it using fruit, then wash it and oil well to stop the oxidation. Try sticking it in an apple for a little while (1/2 hour ??), then wash in soapy water and coat in oil overnight, should control the rusting.

If you really want to blue it like a firearm order a small bottle of Oxpho-Blue from Brownells (~$8). This is the best cold blue I have ever used and it wears incredibly well.

I just refinished a Covington Combat Bowie with it and can post some pictures of it later tonight if you're interested. I also have a pistol I finished it with and after several months of frequent carry it looks as good as new.

To give you an idea how well it wears you actually use #0000 steel wool to polish it.

Edited to add: make sure you degrease the blade completely prior to trying to patina or you will end up with a spotty finish.
 
Thanks cpirtle. Pictures would be great if it's no problem!

I remember looking up degreasing a while ago and I found a number of methods. Brian Goode, who made my knife, uses isopropyl alcohol. I'm not sure where to find this, does anyone know what stores would carry it or if there's a more readily available method?

I think bluing the blade might be more controlled and it sounds like it could serve me better.
 
Many folks like myself take the opposite approach and just go with the patina and even help it along. Some call it the 'blue steel' look.

Normally when making a blade of 01 or 1095 or some other high carbon steel blade like even an old recycled one such as an Old Hickory, or Ontario blade you can:

shape and finish off your blade, then clean well with acetone.
Warm vinegar in an old frypan with the blade in it.
When the blade starts to fizz you keep it at that temprature.
Turn the blade around after a minute or so.
When both sides have turned a uniform black color, remove the blade and wash with dishwashing liquid and a coarse sponge.
 
The scales are epoxied and pinned on with a pair of loveless's and are made of canvas micarta with a brass-lined thong hole, so would the vinegar bath method be safe to use where the knife is already assembled?
 
No way. That would all need to come off first. If it can't come off you can still use warm vinegar to coat the blade to turn it all a uniform color but I'd tape off the parts you don't want the vinegar to touch.

The bath method described above is a tried and true recipe perhaps as old a 1095 steel itself. All this really does is make the blade a uniform color or 'patina' so the little marks that you mentioned earlier don't stand out. They will still always occur to some extent but it won't be so noticable unless it gets to form rust in which case it would be from neglect to wipe it down.
 
There are lots of ways to patina a blade and as pointed out, oxidation is still progressing as you use it, just that it looks less obvious and a deliberate patina will give you an even appearance of tarnishing, not just tarnishing in the blade's sweet spot.

ON a knife that has the scales attached "for life" the mustard finish may be the more controllable method to patina, just being careful not to smear too much against the blade / handle junction. Particularly if the handles are made of some really nice wood. Tomato sauce also does the trick. To get the best patina, you actually need to leave it on for seveal hours, so you need to look after the handle material.

But I find that MEAT gives the nicest blue coloration. I get a piece of lean steak and rub it all over the blade. I think its the blood that does it. Cheers. Jason.
 
Isopropyl Alcholol is the stuff available at any pharmacy for about $1. Standard medical use stuff. I like Alchohol or Brake Parts Cleaner for degreasing.

I agree with everything said here, there are tons of methods depending on the look you're going for.

Here's a couple of pictures (they were pretty hard to take because of the different finishes). They picture the Covington Bowie done with a satin finish & Oxpho-blue, the "melted" KelTec done in a polished finish & OB, and a Winchester with nothing done but has cut up a lot of fruit.

The patina on the Winchester is much deeper than the pictures show.

If you want an even controlled finish, and a dark "blued" look, go for the Oxpho-blue. If you want a more natural aged patina that's not quite as dark I would go with the other methods mentioned.

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Also forgot to mention, on the Covington's black/grey micarta scales the Oxpho-Blue did not leave a stain so I was able to do it without taking the knife apart.
 
It took some searchin' but I found a pic of one my friend Dirk AKA Oupa on my homepage did a couple months back. Of course this one was done with the vinegar bath and done before any handle was applied to it.

Bluesteel-copy.jpg
 
NeedleRemorse said:
I don't mind staining the whole blade, but I don't want oxidation that continues to form over time ...
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A patina is oxidization, you just get it rapidly, and hopefully evenly. O1 is one of the worst steels in regards to corrosion resistance, I just let it patina with use. Note this doesn't really act as a corrosion inhibitor, except in the sense that it is already rusted, and it isn't a replacement for oil/care. Even a blade with a full patina will rust/pit badly if left wet.

-Cliff
 
Cliff-

I wipe and oil my blade religiously, and it's not the discoloration I'm worried about, but rather the actual rust/pitting. Can I rest assured that the oxidation stains will not turn into rust or pit if the blade is maintained?
 
If you wipe the blade religiously there is little more that you can do. It is O1 and it will still form those areas from just pocket carry. The moisture from your body is all it will take. I like the high carbon blades personally but during the hot and sweaty months it is hard for me to carry my favorites.

Just one day of working in the yard and forgetting to wipe off your knife can be all it takes on some steels. O1 is unfortunately one of those steels. The oxidation we are talking about does nothing really to protect the blade. It just hides the obvious for you by uniformly covering the surface of it.

Light oil or perhaps that coating of blue that one of the other guys mentioned along with some oil now and then is about all you can do. ( I like a lite mineral oil personally but I use my knives for food prep a lot.)
 
NeedleRemorse said:
it's not the discoloration I'm worried about, but rather the actual rust/pitting.
Click to expand...
The discoloration is rust, steel being turned into iron oxide, the same process makes pits, it is just more extensive.

Can I rest assured that the oxidation stains will not turn into rust or pit if the blade is maintained?
Click to expand...
Yes, it takes time for deep pits to happen, just rinse and dry the blade after use and oil when possible.

I think you are asking will the stains turn into rust like mold grows on bread, if this is the case then no.

They need exposure to a continued corrosive enviroment, once this enviroment is removed the rusting stops.

-Cliff
 
you can try rubbing alcohol on the knife to get the oils off. use car wax the rub off excess.
I'd just wipe the knife down with oil. From what I have seen your knife is aging because you use and touch it. No worries my friend.
Here is my EDC for the last year. It has cut meat, veggies, rope, sweated on ;)~ I love this little bad boy!
All I do it let her change just like I do -
 
Brian-

I love the way the handles on that knife look, they look like they've been aged and broken in. ...Not going to order one. Nope. Not even thinking about it... :D

That's a pretty cool patina, I'll have to stop worrying now :)
 
the next time your talking knives and your lucky to have an oldtimer there(much wiser Grandfather perhaps) get him to show you his pocket knife. Talk about patina!

Were so worried about shiney and new in our day and age. The older generation didnt consiter a used tool old...just used :D
Oh the good old days ;)
 
I know I am opening a can of worms here but once I had an engineer tell me that the rust around the underside of bridges and such actually protect the interior structure. That doesnt apply in knives but just keep her wiped down and she will be fine :D
 
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