Protecting carbon steel from rust - a casual test of some protectants

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Aug 9, 2006
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We are currently experiencing our monsoonal wet season here in Northern Australia. There is not a lot to do outdoors in this kind of weather. Road access is limited off the major highway and heat and humidity discourage much activity.

It is a time of the year when rust and mould are major issues around the house and yard.

Out of curiosity, I tested the protective effect of a few things that I use on knives, tools, fishing gear etc. For the purpose of this exercise I used some bright finished 75mm (3.75inch) bullet head nails. The nails were carefully scoured in hot soapy water, dried, degreased with alcohol and hammered into a pine batten. They were then coated with the various substances detailed below. I wore disposable gloves to avoid any accidental contamination of the metal during the setup. All up I used eight nails. The batten was left outside in the weather for four days.

The protectants chosen were selected because I already had them lying around the house and shed (this was a big budget exercise). Three of the substances were aerosols – Inox, WD40 and Lanoshield. Instead of spraying the nails and risking cross contamination, I sprayed the stuff on a clean piece of cloth and wiped it on to the nail.

Lanotec and Lanoshield are lanolin based products. I get them from a boating supplies place and they are heavily used in the fishing industry in this part of the world. I use them on my boat and trailer, particularly to grease bolt threads.

Conditions during the four days were harsh. Relatively humidity rarely dropped below 80%. Temperatures ranged between 26 degrees Celsius (79F) and 35 degrees Celsius (95F). It rained on and off for the four days and there were numerous squalls and thunderstorms.

The protectants used and the results are summarized below. Worst corrosive effect is number 8 through to least corrosive result (or best protective effect) at number 1.

8 – No protectant. This was the control. Within 24 hours the nail was coated in light rust. At the end of the four days it seriously rusted with no bright metal visible.

7 – Mineral Oil – this came as a bit of a surprise as I have been using this stuff on knives that are regularly handled for years. Corrosion after four days was quite severe with only minor signs of bright metal visible in some spots. It had the least protective effect of all substances I used.

6 – Gunstock Wax – this was a Carnauba based wax. I applied three coats to the raw nail. Rusting after four days was quite noticeable and the protective effect, although observable was not good.

5 – Inox. This is an aerosol based lube and protectant. This nail had a good covering of rust spots – plenty of bright metal visible but the amount of rust was also quite significant. Another surprise for me as I have used this stuff for a long time on guns, especially black powder firearms and have found it effective as a protectant for guns stored in a safe.

4 – Olive Oil. This was commandeered from the kitchen. The nail had some rust after four days but it was relatively light and patchy. It performed a lot better than the mineral oil and the Inox.

3 – WD40. Some rust but surprisingly little. Overall protective effect was very good.

2 – Lanotec Grease. A small number of rust spots observable but of a minor nature.

1 – Lanoshield – Two minor specs of rust visible, otherwise the nail showed no effects of the exposure to the elements. Overall, the best result.

There were a few surprises there for me. I will probably keep using mineral oil for carbon steel knives that are in regular use and may be used for food preparation but I would have a serious lack of confidence in it for harsh environment useage. I don’t usually use Inox on knives but do use it for axes, machetes etc – I will switch to Lanoshield for these. I have used Lanotec grease for long term storage of knives for many years and will continue to do so.

Let me acknowledge up front that this was a casual exercise based on my own curiosity. It dealt only with passive exposure to climatic elements and included none of the other things that may impact on knives such as exposure to blood, leather, sweat, salt water etc, nor was the persistence of the protective substance challenged as the nails were not handled after the protectant was applied. I am not a scientist or researcher and plead guilty up front to any methodological shortcomings.

I will leave the nails in place for the next month or so and continue to observe.
 
Thanks for the info I've heard alot of people say to use mineral oil but all I had was olive oil didn't know what kinda difference it would make but now I see I did the right thing.
 
Howdy,
Part of what you are looking at is that as soon as you got the nails wet in the soap & water and exposed them to oxygen from the atmosphere, the corrosion process started. And the rest of your prep process did nothing to remove residual moisture. (doesn't really have to be wet to the touch, the moisture is still there.)

What kind of alcohol did you use? If rubbing alcohol ( that would be isopropyl alcohol) what concentration? (remember, if it's 90% alcohol, then it is still 10% water.) Plus, the most common alcohols (methanol, ethanol, and isopropanol) are hygroscopic. They suck in water from the atmosphere. Even denatured ethanol still sucks in moisture. So when you dip in any of these alcohols, even if they are supposed to be 100% alcohol, you are likely applying water to the nails.

So you got the nails wet, then trapped the moisture with a barrier coat. What you were testing is the ability of the oils to overcome moisture left on the nails from the prep process and then stop the corrosion process after it had started. This is maybe not what you intended to test.

My guess is that olive oil out-performed mineral oil in your test because the olive oil has some organic acids that will do a better job of emulsifying any moisture left on the nail and pulling that moisture away from the steel.

WD-40 was not formulated to be a lubricant. It was originally formulated to do exactly what you were asking it to do. Displace moisture from a metal surface and leave a protective film. 50 years later it still does a fair dinkum job.

I'm not familiar with the lanolin products you tested, so I cannot comment on them.

You might try repeating the test using the following specimen preparation:
1) Use 600 grit or better sandpaper to scour the nails and remove any initial corrosion and any organic films. No soap and water.
2) Then use paint thinner (like the kind they sell for thinning alkyd enamel house paint) to wipe them down. Use Stoddard solvent, naphtha, or VM&P. (VM&P naphtha will be easiest to dry off.) No alcohols. No turpentine. No acetone. MEK would be OK. MIBK would be better. 3) Dry the nails and drive them quickly into the wood. Remember the nails are vulnerable to oxygen and moisture in the air until you coat them with something.
4) apply the protectants as soon as possible.

It would be interesting to see if there is any difference in the results.
I never tried it, but I think that if the nails were actually moisture free to start with, that the mineral oil might have out-performed the olive oil. If you had a clean dry hunk of steel, the mineral oil should provide a better barrier than the olive oil. Also, the mineral oil will not oxidize and turn gummy. The olive oil will.
 
2manyknives:

Im very happy you did such tests...
Very interesting information.....
But one test is not enough...could you please do the same tests again, same stuff and even add some new types of coverings to the tests.

I would be interested in seeing if mineral oil compared the same in 2 out of 3 tests?

Perhaps you could run not just one nail of each coating, but a few of each so that you could tell me about a result of like :"4 out of the 6 nailes covered with Mineral Oil had X% rust on them after 4 days."

I would like to see if you could test "BREAK FREE"...its a type of oil I use a lot because my dad used it on his guns.

I would like to see a cooking oil tested, as sometimes when I know a knife Im working on is going to the kitchen I will coat it in an oil that I know will not get people sick.

I would also like to see PAM cooking spray tested, because of a little test I ran myself with PAM against WD40 and PAM won...

I also would like to see reg 10-40 motor oil testsed,,,,as sometimes I have used that at work on my knife when it went under water for a long time.
 
Hmmm . . . if you are taking test requests, I would be interested in seeing how camelia oil (sword oil) fares.
 
I would like to see if you could test "BREAK FREE"...its a type of oil I use a lot because my dad used it on his guns

If he were to test with this , his test would end. BF CLP is the best. Bear in mind though it is not food grade.

Here is a link to a pretty impressive lube test/results ( no offense meant to you at all 2manyknives - you may find it interesting too)
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389685
Test was done by our very own Fulloflead. I think in the past I may have given credit to STR for this , ooops.. :D
 
I will see what else I have lying around. I certainly have lots of nails and no end of lousy weather. In response to an earlier response re the effects washing the nails - I put out a few more last night with the following variation:

Four nails straight out of the packet - no prepration. One control, one mineral oil, one olive oil and one Lanoshield.

I did another four with the same protectants but sanded them first.

It rained all night and most of today. It has cleared now but is as humid as hell. About 20 hours have elapsed and I noticed the that:

The unsanded nails fared a little better than the sanded nails - they must have something on them that gives some protection. The controls, mineral oil and olive oil nails all have varying degrees of rust. Neither of the Lanoshield coated nails has any rust at all. Will let you know what these look like after a few days.
 
You could also piss everyone off by adding and keeping us updated on the status of a stainless nail :-)
 
I have found that "Sheath Rust Protectant" by Birchwood Casey is the best rust preventer for me to date. I do a decent amount of offshore fishing and this stuff is the only thing that has kept my knives and leatherman rust free. That is saying a lot when exposed to saltwater and spray.
Where did you get the Lanoshield? I would be interested in that.
By the way Sheath is NOT food safe. The stuff might kill you just from the fumes, I can't imagine ingesting it.
 
The poor results with mineral oil are really not so surprising. There is a reason why it is usually not used on machinery :). No, seriously, the reason is that mineral oil is a very simple and pure oil. It is very little wetted by water so it repells it. The problem is that the mineral oil wets metal very little as well. Water wets metal much better, so there is really no driving force to drive off adsorbed water on the metal surface when using mineral water. You should be seeing decent results with mineral oil if you thoroughly dry the metal first...which means heat or a drying agent. If you are simply wipe off the surface in the conditions you describe, a lot of moisture remains adsorbed on the surface and gets trapped underneath the oil. Now there are oils which are described as "metallophilic". WD40 is metallophilic even if it is not labled as such, most gun-oils are also metallophilic. These oils are not wetted by water but strongly wet metal, so they coat the metal by driving off and displacing the water adsorbed to the surface. The catch 22 is that these oils contain additives that render them metallophilic and these additives are almost always not the most healthy and usually have a pretty strong odor. In addition, these oils contain oxidization inhibitors, which will see to it that what ever water might have been trapped despite the metallophilic properties of the oil, will rather oxidize the inhibitors rather the metal (this is how these inhibitors work, they are simply substances that will be oxidized more readily than the metal, thus protecting the metal).

Don't really know why I wrote this but, maybe it is of some interest to someone :).
 
HoB is right of course - you want to be sure that your metal
is completely dry before application. And ideally, you want a corrosion
inhibitor that actually displaces moisture.

A couple of the best are Tuf Glide (Tuf Cloth) and FP-10.

Moreover, these do not affect tolerances.
 
Not trying to sound like a jerk, but how many of your knives do you clean this well before applying a lubricant. I know I don't. Knives and guns get a wipe down with a cloth with favorite lube applied. Even though some things like durability probably were not represented well, it is a pretty good indicator of how well a lube will work when used like most would use it (clean it and wipe it down).



Howdy,
Part of what you are looking at is that as soon as you got the nails wet in the soap & water and exposed them to oxygen from the atmosphere, the corrosion process started. And the rest of your prep process did nothing to remove residual moisture. (doesn't really have to be wet to the touch, the moisture is still there.)

What kind of alcohol did you use? If rubbing alcohol ( that would be isopropyl alcohol) what concentration? (remember, if it's 90% alcohol, then it is still 10% water.) Plus, the most common alcohols (methanol, ethanol, and isopropanol) are hygroscopic. They suck in water from the atmosphere. Even denatured ethanol still sucks in moisture. So when you dip in any of these alcohols, even if they are supposed to be 100% alcohol, you are likely applying water to the nails.

So you got the nails wet, then trapped the moisture with a barrier coat. What you were testing is the ability of the oils to overcome moisture left on the nails from the prep process and then stop the corrosion process after it had started. This is maybe not what you intended to test.

My guess is that olive oil out-performed mineral oil in your test because the olive oil has some organic acids that will do a better job of emulsifying any moisture left on the nail and pulling that moisture away from the steel.

WD-40 was not formulated to be a lubricant. It was originally formulated to do exactly what you were asking it to do. Displace moisture from a metal surface and leave a protective film. 50 years later it still does a fair dinkum job.

I'm not familiar with the lanolin products you tested, so I cannot comment on them.

You might try repeating the test using the following specimen preparation:
1) Use 600 grit or better sandpaper to scour the nails and remove any initial corrosion and any organic films. No soap and water.
2) Then use paint thinner (like the kind they sell for thinning alkyd enamel house paint) to wipe them down. Use Stoddard solvent, naphtha, or VM&P. (VM&P naphtha will be easiest to dry off.) No alcohols. No turpentine. No acetone. MEK would be OK. MIBK would be better. 3) Dry the nails and drive them quickly into the wood. Remember the nails are vulnerable to oxygen and moisture in the air until you coat them with something.
4) apply the protectants as soon as possible.

It would be interesting to see if there is any difference in the results.
I never tried it, but I think that if the nails were actually moisture free to start with, that the mineral oil might have out-performed the olive oil. If you had a clean dry hunk of steel, the mineral oil should provide a better barrier than the olive oil. Also, the mineral oil will not oxidize and turn gummy. The olive oil will.
 
Not trying to sound like a jerk, but how many of your knives do you clean this well before applying a lubricant. I know I don't. Knives and guns get a wipe down with a cloth with favorite lube applied. Even though some things like durability probably were not represented well, it is a pretty good indicator of how well a lube will work when used like most would use it (clean it and wipe it down).

Actually, that was my point. That is why more modern lubricants work much better as protection. You would even see a significant impovement using regular engine oil over mineral oil and it is not because of the oil but the additives (including the chemical groups that are directly, chemically, attached to the oil molecules). The probem it always the food safty though. And every oil will protect better if you apply it to a warm if not hot surface (like Militec suggests for their stuff).
 
Not trying to sound like a jerk, but how many of your knives do you clean this well before applying a lubricant. I know I don't. Knives and guns get a wipe down with a cloth with favorite lube applied. Even though some things like durability probably were not represented well, it is a pretty good indicator of how well a lube will work when used like most would use it (clean it and wipe it down).

For testing purposes, I suppose the level of "clean and dry" would probably be greater than under normal circumstances.

Under normal circumstances, yes - just get rid of the dust, clean it and wipe it down. Then lube it, work the action a bit, and it's done.
 
Has anyone tried RIG Grease, I use it on my knives, it only takes just a thin coat, so far I have not had any rust on my carbon steel blades. I wipe them down twice a year on average.
 
Not trying to sound like a jerk, but how many of your knives do you clean this well before applying a lubricant. I know I don't. Knives and guns get a wipe down with a cloth with favorite lube applied. Even though some things like durability probably were not represented well, it is a pretty good indicator of how well a lube will work when used like most would use it (clean it and wipe it down).

You don't sound like a jerk. Hope I didn't either. My point was that I don't clean a knife in water then use alcohol to finish the cleaning process. There is nothing in that process that removes adsorbed water from the steel, as HoB pointed out so much more effectively than I did.

When I clean a carbon steel blade, I may indeed use soap and water for the initial cleaning to remove blood, etc. I then wipe it as dry as I can and then apply WD-40, because it does displace water. Then I wipe the knife dry of the WD-40. If I am going to store the knife, I then apply a little 3-in-1.
 
I have found that "Sheath Rust Protectant" by Birchwood Casey is the best rust preventer for me to date. I do a decent amount of offshore fishing and this stuff is the only thing that has kept my knives and leatherman rust free. That is saying a lot when exposed to saltwater and spray.
Where did you get the Lanoshield? I would be interested in that.
By the way Sheath is NOT food safe. The stuff might kill you just from the fumes, I can't imagine ingesting it.

TLR - I bought the Lanoshield at a place on the waterfront that services the commercial fishing and prawn boats. It is manufactured by CRC. I have seen other brands as well that are lanolin based lubes in spray cans but can't remember the brand names at the moment. The stuff is widely used up here by boat owners both in spray and grease forms. There is a webaddress on the tin www.crcindustries.com.au

The Lanotec grease has a web address on the container of www.lanotec.com.au
 
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