Protecting carbon steel from rust

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goldie

goldie

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Is there anything else other than keeping the blade oiled to protect carbon steel or carbon v from rust ?
 
Keep it dry and keep it clean.

Regular use also helps to remove rust buildup on the edge.
 
Carbon steel will develop a patina with use or it can be forced with an acidic substance. This patina will also protect your blade from rust.--KV
 
Though many don't like polished blades, I do. I keep my Carbon steel blades at a mirror polish and have never had a problem with rust, even without the use of oil on them.

Bill
 
Balistrol that Ragnar sells is excellent and so is a coating of Rem oil. keepem sharp
 
jfn said:
Keep it dry and keep it clean.

Regular use also helps to remove rust buildup on the edge.
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That's the ticket. I hardly ever smear oil on carbon steel blades (just a drop on the pivot once in awhile). But keeping the blades dry and free of goo is key.
 
Rennisance Wax is very good if you don't to deal with oily coatings.

Automotive Paste wax works fairly well also.
 
There are quite a few products out there for dealing with rust. Corrosion-X and Eezox are supposed to be two of the best. That being said I have not been able to find either one locally so have not been able to try them out yet. I do not know if they leave an oily surface behind or if they dry completely and leave a dry film for protection.

However, so far my A2 and M4 blades have not had any rust and I don't do anything that special except keep the clean and dry. They are not the most rust prone steels but they are not stainless either.
 
I just wipe my blades down with a silicone impregnated cloth ( Outers or Hoppes, for about $2.99).

First clean salt, or acids off, a quick wipe down, and it's done. The cloth lasts months if you keep it in the ziplock to keep it from drying out.

There is also a clear liquid silicone product at A.G.Russell's that you can coat the blade with for longer term storage.

It's been working better than oil for me.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
There are quite a few products out there for dealing with rust. Corrosion-X and Eezox are supposed to be two of the best. That being said I have not been able to find either one locally so have not been able to try them out yet. I do not know if they leave an oily surface behind or if they dry completely and leave a dry film for protection.

However, so far my A2 and M4 blades have not had any rust and I don't do anything that special except keep the clean and dry. They are not the most rust prone steels but they are not stainless either.
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The corrosion-x I've used in the past definitely leaves a film behind. My favorite so far is tuf cloth.
 
I think the concern over carbon steel rusting is much overplayed on this forum. For centuries, sailors have carried carbon steel knives on ocean voyages, and their knives survived with reasonable care.

As written before, keep them clean and dry, just as you would any fine tool. Do not panic when they get wet, just wipe them off on something dry when you get the chance and you will be fine.

You should know that some carbon steels have a tendency to darken with age and use. This is a form of oxidation, but it is NOT rust. In fact, it helps prevent rust.

As for coatings to protect the blade; use something cheap and readily available. I like silicon cloth, too. However, that can of cheap oil that you have in a cupboard somewhere will work just fine. If you like to polish your blades (as I do) use a good car wax. If you want to get fancy, get hold of some Flitz Rifle Gun and Knife Wax, which is a little pricy, and not necessary, but very pretty.

When storing your knife, remove it from its sheath, if it has one. Moisture can condense inside a sheath and cause rust pits to form on the blade. By the way, this is possible with stainless steel blades, too.

Most important of all: enjoy your carbon steel knife! Carry it, use it, take it everywhere, and enjoy it, and don’t worry about rust, so long as you take the few, simple precautions above. WARNING: once you put a fine edge on your new carbon steel blade, and see how sharp it gets and how well it holds an edge, you might become a convert. Many do!
 
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ive had carbon v show tiny rust dots just from sitting in a stand,if its not covered in oil, steel like that starts to show spots over time. keeping it oiled on a stand collects dust like a magnet. i thought of wax,too,& that flitz wax...
 
goldie said:
ive had carbon v show tiny rust dots just from sitting in a stand,if its not covered in oil, steel like that starts to show spots over time. keeping it oiled on a stand collects dust like a magnet. i thought of wax,too,& that flitz wax...
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Try the Flitz Rifle Gun and Knife Wax. I have been using it a lot, and have had no problem with residue or attracting dust.

I have heard (and read here) that the Tuf-Cloth silicon protectant is even better, as it bonds to the steel, providing more protection with no residue at all. We'll see. I am going to get a Tuf-Cloth with my Ritter M-4 Griptilians, and will try it out.
 
Aside from a thin coat of oil, you can simply keep the blade clean and dry.

For example, I use Old Hickory 1095 carbon steel kitchen knives. When I'm done using one, I'll wash it with soapy water, then rinse it with the hottest water I can get out of the tap. Then I wipe it with a dry towel, and it's ready to go back in the block.
 
CountyRat said:
Try the Flitz Rifle Gun and Knife Wax. I have been using it a lot, and have had no problem with residue or attracting dust.

I have heard (and read here) that the Tuf-Cloth silicon protectant is even better, as it bonds to the steel, providing more protection with no residue at all. We'll see. I am going to get a Tuf-Cloth with my Ritter M-4 Griptilians, and will try it out.
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Tuf-Cloth is very good you can get the standard or the Marine Tuf which is for salt water applications.I have read that the military uses it and I use it for long storage of my carbon steel bowie knives.It goes on wet and then forms a molecular bond with the steel as it dries.
 
shaving sharp said:
Tuf-Cloth is very good you can get the standard or the Marine Tuf which is for salt water applications.I have read that the military uses it and I use it for long storage of my carbon steel bowie knives.It goes on wet and then forms a molecular bond with the steel as it dries.
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Cool. Sounds like just the ticket!
 
I dont know if 1095 used on my schrade old timer is a carbon steel but I used gun blueing solution on it and bow it hardly ever rusts with normal use and minimal care.
 
I blued one little folding knife blade, and the taste was pretty bad (You do lick your blade clean after you eat, don't you?)
 
Using them regularly and cleaning them after use is best. The problem with a lot of knives is people don't use them every day. Continual use will soon stop the problem - along with cleaning and keeping them dry when not in use.
 
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