Protecting Copper Fittings

A

Augus7us

Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
694
I have a few paring blanks ready for handles and they all have bolsters. The first one I was able to complete I used black G10 and it turned out real nice. Copper being one of my favorite accent materials was going to be the bolster on the next one. I fitted it up and ground it to final shape and ran it across a 220 slack belt. I plan to take it up to at least 600 or so. I didn't have time for that so I put it in a plastic organizer tray with a lid and it sat overnight. When I took it out today I noticed it already had a nice patina fingerprint on it.

This will see heavy use in the kitchen and I'm now afraid after a week its going to tarnish and completely loose its finish. Is there any method or finish I can apply to preserve it that is also food safe?

I would hate to remove copper from this build but I may not have a choice.

-Clint
 
Unless sealed from oxygen via clearcoat or similar. Copper will tarnish rapidly.
There is really no avoidance, especially so in a kitchen.
 
A food safe clear coat is shellac. It is just bug spit and grain alcohol. It is what covers pills and some candy.
High maintenance though. It is super easy to apply; just wipe it on with a rag but takes many coats. I coated this dinning table with it. I used ruby you may want to use "white".



Lacquer would probably be much more durable. Though poisonous as heck to work with initially the cured product is acceptably low in toxicity. It is the thinner that can curl your hair. This knife I believe was coated with lacquer when I got it from the manufacture in Japan. I used it a bunch and the coating was very durable / did not rust or change.

I removed the coating with lacquer thinner because I wanted the metal to react and patina etc. I like the way that looks.



Here is a test I did on a plate when people were trying to convince me not to use shellac on a dining table because it was not water resistant enough. I realize the shellac has some micro porosity but I feel it is quite durable enough for responsible people to use for surface protection. In other words for people who don't set hot serving cook ware on the table without a trivet or wet glasses on the table for hours with out a coaster.

Repeated vigorous washing with soap and water did not remove the shellac from this plate even the very finely applied one wipe coated area in the middle. I was convinced I could use it on the table and have not changed my opinion after years of use of the table.

I would recommend some empirical testing on your end to see what you can see for your self.



PS: speaking of poisonous as heck to work with initially but the cured product is acceptably low in toxicity . . . there is always clear epoxy finish . . . I mean they use that to make fiber glass boats and surf boards. Down side is it tends to be kind of "plastic coated" looking for my taste. There is no finish that says old world quality to me like shellac . . . there is just a certain look and feel to the touch that is unmistakable.
 
Last edited:
Waxing the piece helps keep the copper bright longer. Bright copper looks nice, but I like a natural patina better!
People have spent a lot of time and effort forcing patina on copper.
Any clear coat finish will get scratches over time and the copper will patina in those scratches.
You can do a red oxide finish on it as well. I've never done it so I can't say how well it holds up but it is supposed to be tuff and prevent further oxidation well. I have a project on the back burner I mean to try it on. I think you heat the copper to red and quench in water with some borax in it. It looks really cool it's shown done on a habaki on crossed heart forges web site.

-Colin
 
The patina on copper is what you want. Many people will use various acids and sulfur compounds to get different shades. Using livers of sulfur, you can make the copper look like black shakudo. The black copper-sulfate finish holds up quite well.

I use 0000 steel wool as my final rub on copper and let it sit untouched for a few weeks. This forms the base oxides and it doesn't get fingerprints as bad. In a month or so, it is a nice copper brown, and will stay that way. If it needs any work, or you want it bright for a special event, just rub down with the steel wool and it will be shiny in a minute or less.

Coating copper on a working tool like a pan or a knife isn't a good idea. It won't work unless the item is merely decorative.
 
Copper will do what copper will do

let it patina like an old penny and forget about it.

You want it to look pretty again, use some flitz now and then
 
If I were planning on keeping the knife I wouldn't mind polishing it or letting it patina. But I planned on giving this knife to my Grandmother who is in her 80's and I doubt she wants to polish bolsters in her spare time :)

Now she may like the patina but that isn't what I want to deliver to her. I may shellac it and use it myself to see how it wears. Granny is probably going to get a stainless model.

Someone just posted a very nice folder in customs with polished copper scales. I don't think it was the maker that posted it or I'd ask if they did anything to protect it.

Thanks for the replies fellas.

-Clint
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top