Protecting our Beckers

J

jius

Joined
May 13, 2014
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280
Just saw this video and interesting to see findings. Following from recent discussions here about caring for our beloved 1095 steel, using mineral oil, wax, etc, it is interesting/bit surprising to see results of oil and especially 3-in-1. (*Not sure if added Ethan's special CV makes any difference*)

Perhaps there is a top brand or a mix or 'secret ingredient' that trumps them all.


https://youtu.be/O7ZThs1y8xs
 
I've had my bk2 for 3 years it's been beat to hell and back, but after use it gets a wipe down. Then when it's put away it gets a quick wipe down in mineral oil and kept in my hot sc garage, and I've yet to have any rust problems.
 
I too wipe down and wipe with mineral oil - especially my knives that will touch food. ATF works well too, just not on food knives.

I think wiping down soon after use and oiling and wiping reasonably soon thereafter is more critical than the actual type of oil given that most of us do not store our knives out in the elements.
 
I've also used flitz on some of my carbon knives and put em away with just that and they haven't had rust issues in a humid garage.
 
Likewise using mineral oil and good wipe down before I have had zero rust. Still 3-in1could be my new in the field protection. I'd never blue a knife so disregarded those straight away regardless. And acid...well I always carry some in my back pocket 😋
 
I use camellia oil as used by sushi chefs for them knives. I would have used 3 in 1 as with all of my tools only its not food safe. great video.

pros - food safe, does not go rancid and a little goes a very long way. I've had this bottle forever.
Cons - a little more expensive than your average mineral oil.

 
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1095CV has chromium added which increases hardness and corrosion tesistance. IIRC, a steel must gave at least 13% chromium to be considered a "stainless" steel. So I'd imagine 1095CV would hold hold up better than plain 1095.

I seem to recall the last time I used 3-in-1 and left it on thick, it attracted a lot of dust/dirt and got sticky.

I'm impressed that, after 2 weeks in a relatively dry environment, there was very little rust. Even after 3 weeks, most of that rust looked like it would sand right off, ie: not much pitting.

Very interesting video.
 
I've posted my technique here. I like to wax my blades with paraffin. I put the wax on dry, buff it down, then heat it up a bit. Stays dry, doesn't attract particles, and acts as a lubricant when splitting wood.
 
i tend to soak my axe heads and hammers and stuff in boiled linseed oil and i let them drip dry

which reminds me, i need to me a "embiggened" soaking box for the double bit - projects!

so, often, i have a wee jar or such of left over "drippings", and i tend to just start wiping that on any random exposed steel i might have

for the kitchen knives what are carbon like, any old food oil that's nearby, and then wipe most off.

storage? use a climate controlled environment - like a college dorm cedar chest, and toss in a few rechargeable dessicant packs - the kind you can get for $10, that tell you when they are done, and you plug them into wall current to dry them out. last for years they say. keep that box closed most times, esp in "humid seasons", and well, there you go.

short of salt water (sweat), even leaving a knife out for days, unless maybe you stripped it, rust is not really an issue. sure sure, patina and all that. scrub it off, get on with life.

btw, your car/truck is rusting, right now :D best start bustin out the wax :D
 
Bladite said:
i tend to soak my axe heads and hammers and stuff in boiled linseed oil and i let them drip dry

which reminds me, i need to me a "embiggened" soaking box for the double bit - projects!

so, often, i have a wee jar or such of left over "drippings", and i tend to just start wiping that on any random exposed steel i might have

for the kitchen knives what are carbon like, any old food oil that's nearby, and then wipe most off.

storage? use a climate controlled environment - like a college dorm cedar chest, and toss in a few rechargeable dessicant packs - the kind you can get for $10, that tell you when they are done, and you plug them into wall current to dry them out. last for years they say. keep that box closed most times, esp in "humid seasons", and well, there you go.

short of salt water (sweat), even leaving a knife out for days, unless maybe you stripped it, rust is not really an issue. sure sure, patina and all that. scrub it off, get on with life.

btw, your car/truck is rusting, right now :D best start bustin out the wax :D
Click to expand...

Couldnt agree more, people are way to fussed over rust. I use a stripped 2 near daily. a quick wipe with a dry cloth after use - no issues. The odd blemish may appear, then a light sand with a superfine grit paper.

I only give a light coat of camellia oil to blades i plan on storing for a long time or safe queens, thats why that bottle is full still and may last me near a lifetime.
 
Bladite said:
i tend to soak my axe heads and hammers and stuff in boiled linseed oil and i let them drip dry

which reminds me, i need to me a "embiggened" soaking box for the double bit - projects!

so, often, i have a wee jar or such of left over "drippings", and i tend to just start wiping that on any random exposed steel i might have

for the kitchen knives what are carbon like, any old food oil that's nearby, and then wipe most off.

storage? use a climate controlled environment - like a college dorm cedar chest, and toss in a few rechargeable dessicant packs - the kind you can get for $10, that tell you when they are done, and you plug them into wall current to dry them out. last for years they say. keep that box closed most times, esp in "humid seasons", and well, there you go.

short of salt water (sweat), even leaving a knife out for days, unless maybe you stripped it, rust is not really an issue. sure sure, patina and all that. scrub it off, get on with life.

btw, your car/truck is rusting, right now :D best start bustin out the wax :D
Click to expand...



1+ :thumbup:
 
Gassy said:
Couldnt agree more, people are way to fussed over rust. I use a stripped 2 near daily. a quick wipe with a dry cloth after use - no issues. The odd blemish may appear, then a light sand with a superfine grit paper.

I only give a light coat of camellia oil to blades i plan on storing for a long time or safe queens, thats why that bottle is full still and may last me near a lifetime.
Click to expand...

If too much boiled linseed oil is applied too often, you get a tacky/sticky mess on your axe/hatchet handle. A light coat about once a year is enough after a few heavier initial coats, with decent drying time between them............... Mineral oil is cheap and readily available most anywhere, and it will not poison your food with use.
 
I usually wipe the blood off on my pant leg before sheathing. I took my bk10 in the ocean before and only got just a bit of surface rust where the laser engraving is and then a bit more where the coating was worn away from batoning. I was impressed with how little rust there was, so I generally don't worry about it.
 
I live in and around a hot, humid, salt water environment. There is a product called RIG that I have used on my blued guns. I have never seen rust since using it. I have used it on a couple of knives. It works. I have no idea if it is food safe. The last time I purchased it it was called RIG2 I dont know what the difference is, but it did work.
 
I just put a small amount of Camellia Oil on my cloth and wipe the blade down good and then put in my lined metal knife box
and I am good to go until further use and one of them is needed ~~ never have had a rust problem since I started using the
Camellia Oil ~~ Sushi Chef told me about the Oil many years ago.!** Great stuff.
 
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