Protecting the blade while sharpening: lacquer?

BladeChemist

BladeChemist

Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Messages
261
Last night while putting a 12 degree main bevel on a blade (Benchmade 3310 in S30V) using the 120 grit on the Apex Pro I noticed that the blade finish was being scratched all to hell despite my best efforts.

Now, I'm well aware of the concept of taping the blade which is the first thing I did with this knife using blue painter's tape. However, re-profiling with S30V I observed a lot of fine swarf and I frequently rewetted and cleaned the stone during the process. Due to the extra water, lower angle, and constant contact with the stone the tape became ragged and useless so I removed it. Almost immediately I observed long scratches form across the entire blade which ruined the matted blade finish. Not good.

Thankfully, this was my own knife and not a customer's but I wonder if there isn't a better way to preserve the finish on fine knives during the "traumatic" re-profiling step. So, with that in mind I'm going to purchase some acetone and quick-drying clear lacquer tonight. The idea is to carefully apply the lacquer across the entire blade (several coats) then use a paper towel or Q-tip dipped in acetone to remove the lacquer in the area to be rebeveled. Then go through the motions of removing material using the extra course, etc, all the way up to the mirror finished edge. Finally, the lacquer coating will be thoroughly removed with acetone and rinsed with water revealing a flawless blade with a mirror finish bevel (in theory).

Obviously, for work knives that are going to be scratched up anyways this isn't a necessary step, but If I run into someone wanting a scary sharp mirror finish edge while retaining a perfect finish I think this may have application. Especially on those extremely expensive knives where a single scratch would be a catastrophe.

I'll add more later including pictures as I develop a process.

Cliff notes: Protecting the blade finish by taping the blade doesn't work for me so I'm going to try a temporary lacquer coating that will be removed at the end of the sharpening process. Especially applicable on super-expensive/decorated/Damascus blades.

P.S. If you're reading this and want to try it yourself, do not apply any kind of urethane or urethane "lacquer". Once urethane cures it's difficult to remove without damaging the surfaces underneath. The key here is applying a temporary and reversible protective coating to the blade.
 
Vinyl tape? (electricians tape)

Water proof, works well, no residue, no chemicals that could get into undesirable locations.
 
unit said:
Vinyl tape? (electricians tape)

Water proof, works well, no residue, no chemicals that could get into undesirable locations.
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Yeah, good advice. Reading this thread that just popped into my head. I was stropping (1200 grit) my newly acquired Benchmade Bone Collector and my hand slipped a bit and I scratched just above the shoulder of the edge.

Damn :mad: I dont mind using my blade and it gets scratched but hate it when it happens when I sharpen! I did notice the sandpaper did curl a bit on the edge I was sharpening on (similar to mouse pad approach) so that could have caused the scratches as well. Only spot it when you hold the blade a certain angle. Think electricians tape will work great for that in future. Will see how it goes in future, but cant think it can cause problems:confused: most likely will prevent most accidental scratches.
 
I found taping the table platform to be more effective than taping the blade, but I'll be damned if I can figure out why! :eek: .(I like to know the 'why' of what I do.)

When I first got my EdgePro I tried taping the blades, but got the same results that you found. Then I noticed on the video that came with it that Ben had the platform taped, and watered it down between stones, so I tried that. It worked for me. Give it a try. It's certainly easier than using varnish.

Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
I found taping the table platform to be more effective than taping the blade, but I'll be damned if I can figure out why! :eek: .(I like to know the 'why' of what I do.)

When I first got my EdgePro I tried taping the blades, but got the same results that you found. Then I noticed on the video that came with it that Ben had the platform taped, and watered it down between stones, so I tried that. It worked for me. Give it a try. It's certainly easier than using varnish.

Stitchawl
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Well, that's not exactly the problem. I keep my platform taped at all times. The problem is grit scratching the blade during the sharpening process- not just the underside of the blade, but the topside. Even an accidental glance with the stone, or some grit+soggy tape can cause scratches.
 
If you ground through tape, why do you think a thin coating of lacquer would offer better protection?
My suggestion is to learn to hold the proper angle, and use finer stones. 320 grit is as fine as I would ever use.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
If you ground through tape, why do you think a thin coating of lacquer would offer better protection?
My suggestion is to learn to hold the proper angle, and use finer stones. 320 grit is as fine as I would ever use.
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"Learn to hold the proper angle"? He is using the Edge Pro, the angles are pre adjusted. He is putting a main bevel of 12 degrees on it. Thats the angle he wants.

Sounds like you are suggesting that he stay with the factory bevel so he doesnt scratch the blade.

The blade scratching is one of the drawbacks to using the Edge Pro. I constantly rinse the table with water and I still get scratches.

Im using the Wicked Edge now and not experiencing the scratching. I cant reduce the bevel as much as with the Edge Pro though. Each system has its drawbacks. Too bad there is not a "perfect" sharpener out there!
 
Seems like you're creating more work than you need to. While soaking/flooding the stones has become somewhat of a common practice on the forum, there's a reason that Ben teaches the water use amount that he does, and this is one of them. Try adjusting your water. If you find a stone loading up, (it won't as much as you think, and will still peform even loaded up a bit) take it off, rinse/clean it under running water, shake it off and continue. Use enough water to keep it wet, w/o a lot of slurry running off. (This all sounds harder than it really is). Doing this and continuing to tape the blade should solve your problem.

Keep in mind too, that a lot of blades can be setup so that you don't have to move it back and forth on the blade table.

Also, make sure you're not scratching the blade when wiping it off.

cbw
 
cbwx34 said:
Seems like you're creating more work than you need to. While soaking/flooding the stones has become somewhat of a common practice on the forum, there's a reason that Ben teaches the water use amount that he does, and this is one of them. Try adjusting your water. If you find a stone loading up, (it won't as much as you think, and will still peform even loaded up a bit) take it off, rinse/clean it under running water, shake it off and continue. Use enough water to keep it wet, w/o a lot of slurry running off. (This all sounds harder than it really is). Doing this and continuing to tape the blade should solve your problem.

Keep in mind too, that a lot of blades can be setup so that you don't have to move it back and forth on the blade table.

Also, make sure you're not scratching the blade when wiping it off.

cbw
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Thanks for all the advice. I do use the stones soaking wet and it does get pretty messy. A lot of good pointers, thanks again.
 
I'd rather have a slightly larger bevel that's razor sharp than scratch my blades up. Just saying...:)
 
Live with it!! Scratches are part of using/sharpening a knife. Gives the knife character.
 
I agree with cbwx34. Excess water is most of the problem. Part of the problem is the SiC stone you're using. SiC fractures really easily. When running wet, it will break away from the rest of the stone and lodge between your tape and the knife steel. As a result, painters tape on the knife blade can actually make the scratching worse. I've even tried duct tape painters tape (water proof and clean releasing) and it didn't work as well as I'd like.

Use less water when using the SiC stone. Wipe the blade and blade table off after every couple of passes. Do this and you should be fine.

On another note, I hate reprofiling with the EP. I almost always do repairs and heavy work on a belt grinder. I can then finish the edge with stones. If a customer is prejudiced against the use of power tools on his knives, I'll use a DMT to reprofile, mostly dry.
 
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