Protecting Wood Scales (SAK)

C

Carloxicus

Joined
Oct 3, 2011
Messages
175
So a week ago, my cousin was playing with my Super Tinker when she accidentally dropped it on the floor. The usual red cellidor scales cracked in two places that made me quite sad.

So earlier today, I had some free time and decided to make my own scales out of some surplus wood in our garage to replace the broken ones. I've seen pics of some on the net, but this is my first time attempting to make one myself. Despite having no sophisticated tools to make the project easier, I decided to try it anyway by manually carving the wooden scales. I used, guess what... the Super Tinker itself. I guess I sorta told the Super Tinker, "You want new scales? You gotta make em yourself!" Hehe.

Anyway, after two hours and several minutes of meticulous and finger-numbing carving (harder to use a Vic without scales), and a lot of sanding with sandpaper, I was able to come out with a pair of wooden scales, perfectly fit for my Super Tinker.

Now, my question is, what should I put/spread/brush on the wooden scales to protect it best? Also I want, as much as possible, to maintain the color that the scales have now. Should I use oil? Some sort of wax? Please help me.

Thank you all.

P.S.: I'll try to post some pics of the scales later. I have to be honest, I'm kinda proud of em :3
 
To be honest, I'm really not sure... just the usual lumber used for construction. This is just the usual left-over supplies you can get from hardware stores. But it seems good and sturdy. Man, can't wait to get my camera back.

Also, would varnish be good? Kinda worried the texture wouldn't be as good though if I used varnish.
 
please post some pics of your hard work wooden scale! i'm really curious about it...

i aways use acrylic paint for some woods, but i'm sure some with more experience would steer you to the right direction...
 
I would use a penetrating oil finish like tung oil or Watco Danish oil. These will penetrate into the wood, varnish tends to coat the surface and can chip off. I usually use Watco.

I made some bamboo scales that used the Watco on and it seems to work fine.

I haven't tired it yet, but some wood workers use a mixture of 1 part turpentine, 1 part boiled linseed oil, and 1 part varnish (oil based).

Ric
 
So finally, I was able to take a few pics of the wooden scale that I made. I've already attached it to my Super Tinker. It's thicker and more rounded than the usual Cellidor scale (effects of being hand-carved and sanded I guess), but it feels very comfy in the hands. It's roundedness allows a really nice grip on the thing. I'm also planning to transfer the metal Victorinox inlay logo... but I'll do that as soon as I figure out the best way.

I know it's definitely not the best wooden scale out there (far from it actually), but I'm still quite proud of it because it's my first one. :D

So here's a pic of the top scale (with a small leather accessory that I also made + a key that I didn't think to remove when I started taking p :P):

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Angled view from the front:

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Bottom scale view:

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A back view:

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A top view:

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Opened-up the back to show what I felt was the most delicate area to hand carve... the screwdriver notch:

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Opened-up front to show that... yes indeed... it is a Super Tinker (a very useful EDC imho, specially in the city) :D :

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So there we go. :) My very own hand-carved wooden scales on my EDC. :)

PS: still looking for more tips on how to preserve the scales. Thanks! :D
PPS: apparently, you just click on the pics to see the full-size image. :)
 
Well, the red ones are pretty much just held by the plastic itself forming a bit of hold on the brass rivets. So it can be easily popped off when desired. However, doing so would ruin (little by little) the tiny part of the plastic holding onto the brass rivet. So you could probably remove the red scales an pop it back on about 3-4 times before it becomes really lose and needs adhesive to properly keep it together. :)
 
I would use Minwax wipe on poly, it applies easily in thin coats and will protect the wood.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about preserving the wood. It will last a long time unless you are planning on submerging it.
Any wood finish will be fine. Or none at all, just to see how the wood naturally ages.
 
Tru-Oil Gunstock finish,
It will preserve the wood and enhance the graining.
Easy to apply and to re-apply as needed.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I actually re-carved the wood scales above into a thinner, and seemingly more ergonomic shape (well it has bumps and curves that makes it look like a peanut or a tamarind haha). :)
 
Carloxicus, I'd oil the wood well, but otherwise let it absorb some age and character. And I'd love to see pics of the bumps and curves. I'm imagining Jens Anso's work with G10 like in the Spyderco Zulu.
 
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