Protective Coating Option

S

Snow Walker

Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
93
Good evening all...
Lately, I've had an issue with axes...as a former forestry major in college and a tree-trimmer after college, I have a hard time passing up cheap axes at sales and junk shops. As I collect more and more, some are quality axes (Collins, Mastercraft, Wards, etc) for use in my grove, some are practice axes (no-name) for hanging and sharpening, and some are lucky finds that are just too good to use. My question involves putting a protective coating on my axes that are just too good to use...currently, these are all Plumb axes - my grandfather's Plumb axe, a Plumb Dreadnaught with nearly all labels intact, and a nearly pristine Plumb Boy Scout hatchet. I know our local big box stores have numerous spray applications available - clear coat, lacquer, etc. Does anyone have experience preserving axes (both wood and metal) with these materials? If so, do you have a preference for one spray application over another for axe preservation? Is one coating better at preserving labels than another?

Thanks for your help!!
 
i'v heard of cold blue, maybe some kinda spray lacquer if you want clear, otherwise just plastidip and a brush, this only does metal though, the lacquer will do both though
 
For a metal protector for long term storage try Boeshield. I just wouldn't spray it or anything on the paper label.

A great multi-purpose coating for both wood and metal try a blend of BLO, beeswax and turpentine - equal parts.
 
For long-term storage of ones with labels you might consider Renaissance Wax. Otherwise if you aren't trying to preserve it as a collectible then you can just use spray lacquer.
 
Square_peg said:
For a metal protector for long term storage try Boeshield. I just wouldn't spray it or anything on the paper label.
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I'm with Square_Peg on this. Coating any NOS tool (especially the labels) with a finish is akin to varnishing an old gun thinking this will preserve the original finish! Ouch! When it comes to user tools (shovels, rakes, axes, chisels etc) a quick zap with aerosol WD-40 will keep oxidation at bay when the tools are not in use or they're in storage.
 
kraash said:
Renaissance Wax- there's a reason it's the go to preservitive at museums
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No complaints with Renaissance Wax. It's good stuff, maybe the best available commercially. But I think there are some home made recipes that are just as good or better for axes. I listed my favorite above but there are others on this forum using pine tar blends to good effect.
 
Square_peg said:
No complaints with Renaissance Wax. It's good stuff, maybe the best available commercially. But I think there are some home made recipes that are just as good or better for axes. I listed my favorite above but there are others on this forum using pine tar blends to good effect.
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The specific reason I suggested it was for collection items. Definitely not good for users, as it'll come right off if it's being constantly shunted around, bumped, and scraped. But when you want to put a protective coating over something that's going to be treated gingerly it's very stable, dry, invisible, resists fingerprints, and doesn't darken things like labels. For users there are lots of very effective and less costly alternatives that are far more durable in actual use.
 
What ratio of blo to bee wax if you don't want to use turpentine ? Why would one want to add turpentine ?
 
kraash said:
What ratio of blo to bee wax if you don't want to use turpentine ? Why would one want to add turpentine ?
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Equal parts of all three. The turps thins it and helps it all mix together. I didn't invent the mix I just found it online and and have been using it for a few years. Works well for me. I keep it in a glass jar so I can microwave it to warm it up slightly. Helps to warm the metal before applying. Great for sealing the top and bottom of the eye.
 
If you use beeswax and mineral oil at 1 part beeswax to 4 parts mineral oil you can also use this as butcher block oil or wood bowl oil etc. as the ingredients are food grade
 
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