Prototype hunting hatchet

Joined
Dec 2, 2004
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Hunting season is fast arriving and I have a bunch of sawmill blades so thought I would play with something different. I am loving this steel, wicked hard, wicked strong and takes a very sharp edge. It measures in at 10 inches with a 3 1/2 in cutting edge by 5/32 thick, boot sole 20+ oz leather handle slabs. I'm going to make a few different shapes with curvier ulu shaped blades and longer handle slabs to try out during Moose season up here in the wilds. The curve of the short handle really gives it some umpff when chopping and it slices thick Moose hide like butter. Sheath is the usual ;-))

Best regards

Robin

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Very cool. Especially like the leather handle material and copper (?) pins

Hi Pullrich, thanks for your comments. The leather works very well for shock absorption and I like the look of the copper rivets too.

Best regards

Robin
 
I like this alot. Perfect for splitting pelvic bones and joints and all in a compact package. Great idea.
 
May I axe you a question? Did you use a bonding agent, epoxy, or similar to help bond the leather to the steel? If so, any special prep to get the bond to last? Did you scuff up the leather, or make divots? Thanks in advance, if you care or have time to answer.
 
Sweet, should be indestructible. I like that curved handle. You hunt those sweet little mooseses? They so cute. I understand they remodel a lot of cars, like hitting a horse....Randy
 
Thanks Colonel, It's a fun little tool, hope the Moose hunters like it ;-)

Fox, you can axe me anything ;-). The tang is gouged the leater is ruffed up and a ton of good quality 1 hr epoxy , clamped then pinned with copper. I have an old barlow jack that I rehandled in jigged leather, used it every day for about 2 years without it lifting. It only has one pin. I also did a huge bush chopper with leather and pinned with 3 lanyard tubes. It gets used a lot to clear trail and it's hanging in.

Best regards

Robin
 
Hey brother Randy
This steel is very strange stuff to work with, IT IS NAILS. I was talking to an old guy up here who worked in the old sawmills. He was telling me that the old blades just get harder and harder as they work. It doesn't get nearly as hot as the model T leaf springs on my grinder and every pass on the grinder takes less steel off. From what i've read I think this blade is L6. Today I smashed a couple of Deer leg bones with the edge and not a nick or roll in the edge. I think a Parang is in order ;-))) I don't hunt anything, I usually offer to skin stuff for the guys who hunt on our land but thats so I can test my edges;-)) I've seen a BIG Bull Moose take the roof off a car with his body. The guy in front of me hit the big boy, went right between the front and back legs, the Moose walked away. I'd much rather play with Bears than mess with a pissed off Moose. ;-))

R
 
Thanks for the info Pipeman! That leather handle looks great. I've been wanting to re-handle a few machete's and was curious about how to get the leather to stay put. Nice to know you've had success with that technique, thanks again.
 
Fox, here are a couple of pics of the big chopper with the leather handle.

Regards

Robin

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I've been looking but I still havent found a source for that boot sole leather. I have that old Collins machete I need to re-handle.
 
I've been looking but I still havent found a source for that boot sole leather. I have that old Collins machete I need to re-handle.

Pullrich, I bought this stuff about 4o years ago to make backgammon boards and men out of. All the tannerys up here in Canada have closed down. The only thing I can suggest is getting ahold of a good western boot company and ask them who they get it from. Another guy who might know is Paul Long over on the sheath forum, I believe he was a bootmaker. Shoemakers used have have it but they're all gone now ;-(( This stuff is a full 1/4 inch thick and has a great firm back side.

Regards

Robin
 
neat style little hatchet Robin. Looks like it would chop good, but small enough to choke up on the handle and co some slicing if needed.


Pat
 
Hey Robin, nice chopper. About shoe sole material, http://zackwhite.com/xcart/product.php?productid=21326&cat=782&page=2
Zack White carries US tanned soles. It is rolled and hard stuff.
It doesn't get nearly as hot as the model T leaf springs on my grinder and every pass on the grinder takes less steel off.
A2 and L6 carry a lot of the same allows, both tool steels, but A2 is air hardening which could be why it got harder as you worked it. A lot of saws were made from A2, it can get hot and then cool without losing its hardness.Next time when you grind some keep it cool(dip in water between passes) and see if that helps, OR throw that candy a## grinder away and HEAT IT and BEAT IT!!.........Randy
 
Hey Robin, nice chopper. About shoe sole material, http://zackwhite.com/xcart/product.php?productid=21326&cat=782&page=2
Zack White carries US tanned soles. It is rolled and hard stuff.
A2 and L6 carry a lot of the same allows, both tool steels, but A2 is air hardening which could be why it got harder as you worked it. A lot of saws were made from A2, it can get hot and then cool without losing its hardness.Next time when you grind some keep it cool(dip in water between passes) and see if that helps, OR throw that candy a## grinder away and HEAT IT and BEAT IT!!.........Randy

OK OK, I'm going to get forging coal tomorrow ;-)) Thanks for the info on the A2, that sounds even more like this steel, stays cool, gets harder while you're working it. Pounding it hot will be fun.

R
 
neat style little hatchet Robin. Looks like it would chop good, but small enough to choke up on the handle and co some slicing if needed.


Pat

Hey Pat, thanks for your comments. It's a great little chopper and when you choke up it ok for skinning or slicing. I'm working on another with a similar curve to the handle but with a long beard and a "hand channel" to get right behind the blade, like an ulu sort of. ;-)

Best regards

Robin
 
Thanks Mike. You should drop over soon and well throw the spear and do other destruction.

R
 
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