Proud owner of a CAK!!!!!!

E

EdgeTim

Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
104
All I can say so far is WOW!

Ill be doing a full review after I take it out, but this is one beastly piece of steel.

It is heavy, but still very agile, alot more then I thought something this heavy would be. Also the edge is shaving sharp, I didnt specify wood or horn but I was hoping for wood and low and behold!!!

The sheath is beautiful as well, no stitching problems, both little guys look good as well. The Karda? is definitely sharp enough to cut, but needs a little work.

The main blade though.....I understand why it is warranted to be used as a prybar. If the world ends, zombies attack....etc this is my GO TO blade.

I cut some aspen saplings, from a downed tree from a recent windstorm and that thing cuts through like butter.

Cant wait to really put it through its paces.

I have to say, when I was waiting for it I had every intention of removing the traditional handle, and doing a thick paracord wrap, after coating the blade with some sort of paint/epoxy coating, but damn this handle is just too damn pretty.

Guys if your on the fence about an HI product, I know Im preaching to the choir.....DONT hesitate. These things are beautiful, and I dont see it ever failing for anything I plan on doing with it.

I want that guy to do a destruction test on this one, if a rat tang did that well, would love to see how a full tang would hold up, but I sure as HELL wouldnt donate this baby.
 
Spread the love for the CAK!!!
100_0112.jpg



EdgeTim said:
I want that guy to do a destruction test on this one, if a rat tang did that well, would love to see how a full tang would hold up, but I sure as HELL wouldnt donate this baby.
Click to expand...

It would hold up the same, but be a bit more usable once the scales broke off.
 
Which Kami made your CAK? What is the weight?

I dont think that guy would be able to break a CAK. He'd have to come up with a whole new test criteria.

I'll have one to test against my M-43sometime in november, waitin for the ones made by Sgt. Khadka to arrive from Nepal.

Welcome to the family and sorry to say you are now infected by the dread HIKV. Soon to be a sick as the rest of us.
 
Woohoo! It's on my list too. I still have yet to get:

- CAK
- S-CAK
- WWII
- Sirupati
- Chitlangi

My M-43 is on the way says Yangdu. She didn't have any of the smaller handle versions so we'll have to see how big the one I get is. Shouldn't be any bigger than my U.F.

Then after I get the collection and "wall o' knives" it'll be time for some swords or extremely big Siru's!
 
How can I tell who made mine?

I notice the marks but cant remember where I saw the thread that told oyu who made what.

Weight.... Just over 2lbs.

Length.... just shy of 17in.

thing handles soooo well

Can anyone tell me how to get the spotting off from the oil it comes shipped with?

It looks almost like steam spots.
 
EdgeTim said:
Can anyone tell me how to get the spotting off from the oil it comes shipped with?

It looks almost like steam spots.
Click to expand...

Welcome and Congratulations on your CAK.:thumbup:

A 20inch/40ounce CAK was my first HI product. I cleaned mine with a few squirts of commercial eye-glass cleaning spray and a cotton cloth, and then applied a good coating of lanolin based preservative & rust protector. :)
 
Cpl Punish thanks for the link man.

Vim made mine as far as I can tell.

So....I gotta ask, is it totally blasphemous to coat/paint a blade?

I really hated oiling up by rem 870 so I had it coated and had no more worries. I personally dont like the feel of oil anyways, and since this thing is going to be my main user.....What say you fine gentlemen?

I know I know, its not that hard to oil it, I just dont enjoy an oily blade.

Thanks again guys, really a terrific group!
 
How much do you want to use it? You could use Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax on it. That will protect the blade and you would just need to add more to the areas that were used when you're finished.

You could also patina it, clear coat it, etc. Normal paint wouldn't be my first choice as it isn't that durable. Be wary of any coating that requires heat as it could alter your blade's temper.

Personally, mine are working on a nice patina.
 
You can tell which one my user blade is int he pic below. That's a combination of a lemon juice patina and cold blueing solution. It's not quite as black anymore, but I don't think I've oiled the blade in a year, and there's no rust on it. In fact the patina/blue is very durable. I was doing some work and dropped a bit of naval jelly on a coated blade, and it ate right through the coating in no time flat. I experimented by dropping a little on this blade, and it lightened things up a bit, but even leaving it on for 10 minutes, did not remove the patina or cold blue.
100_0085.jpg
 
Patina. Just where you use something like mustard to put an acidic layer on the blade am I correct? I love cold blueing btw cpl, but didnt know how durable it would be honestly.

So did you patina then put cold blue down?
 
I was cutting fatwood and didn't clean the blade off immediately. After a day the patina started to form. I'm sure there are better ways of doing it though (I've heard of Vinegar, but not mustard.).
 
Yeah, there's lots of ways to patina -- vinegar, citrus juice, mustard, etc.

Yes, I patina-ed and then cold blued. Reason being, even though I thoroughly degreased the blade, the patina didn't take on the whole blade. I didn't want the remaining exposed areas to rust, so I rubbed the whole thing down with scotch brite, then cold blued it, rinsed it off, and rubbed it down with scotch brite again. The shiny spots int he pic above at the sweet spot are from usage and sharpening taking off the patina.
 
M-43kukhuri007.jpg



M-43kukhuri006.jpg



M-43kukhuri008.jpg




My M-43 with a quick application of Birchwood/Casey cold blue. The bluing stayed on reasonably well, but I eventually removed it.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top