Public domain symmetrical heavy duty lock?

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Apr 17, 2010
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Is there a folder locking mechanism with all of the following features:

1: In the public domain, or otherwise able to be freely used by any knife maker.
2: Symmetrical left to right, as in a backlock, navaja lock, or axis lock.
3: Comparable strength and wear resistance to the Tri-Ad lock or an axis lock.
 
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I changed the title to more accurately reflect my intent. I'm still looking for a decent public domain locking mechanism that is symmetrical and heavy-duty. The class of locks I'd like to compare this to would include compression, integral compression, axis, and tri-ad locks. Anything where the lock release can be actuated with the same hand motion by either hand.

The compression lock is technically asymmetrical, but the same pinching motion is used to release it with either hand.
 
As a lefty, i have become quite good at using a right handed liner lock, but its not really ambidextrous:o I love the Axis lock, it by far my favorite, but I know Benchmade really protects interests so I wouldn't even copy it for a one off personal use knife. I have been tempted to ask them if I could use it for a one of personal use knife.
 
Unky
They won't be after you for making one for yourself. It is legal to do that in Canada. Frank
 
I personally think that the lockback would be the best option. i really doubt that it is copyrighted, because of its wide use, and it satisfies all the requirements you have except the wear. that can be solved by hardening the part that is contacting the blade. I really don't know, but i think this solves the problem.
 
I personally think that the lockback would be the best option. i really doubt that it is copyrighted, because of its wide use, and it satisfies all the requirements you have except the wear. that can be solved by hardening the part that is contacting the blade. I really don't know, but i think this solves the problem.

I could carbidize the locking surfaces on a backlock, sure. I suppose I'd prefer a more one-hand-closing style of lock like an Axis or Compression lock though.
 
I could carbidize the locking surfaces on a backlock, sure. I suppose I'd prefer a more one-hand-closing style of lock like an Axis or Compression lock though.

Remove a bit of the materiel contacting so that when you pushed the lockbar you could then flip the knife closed. i don't make folders so this is just conjecture.
 
What about a button lock, like on the Gerber 06? Easily operated with either hand. I'd assume Gerber's design is proprietary as the blade is beveled to automatically adjust for wear and has a safety lock as well. But... http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=60_90_242&products_id=2026
I have a couple Benchmade autos as well with the Axis lock. It is strong, BUT I've had the Axis lock non-autos W/O the safety open in my pocket(yes... OUCH) On the other hand, my Benchmade Presidio auto was my EDC for 3 years, and I've had the safety fail 3 times(with daily, heavy use). Luckily I'm a twenty minute drive to Benchmade so easily fixed.
 
What about a button lock, like on the Gerber 06? Easily operated with either hand. I'd assume Gerber's design is proprietary as the blade is beveled to automatically adjust for wear and has a safety lock as well. But... http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=60_90_242&products_id=2026
I have a couple Benchmade autos as well with the Axis lock. It is strong, BUT I've had the Axis lock non-autos W/O the safety open in my pocket(yes... OUCH) On the other hand, my Benchmade Presidio auto was my EDC for 3 years, and I've had the safety fail 3 times(with daily, heavy use). Luckily I'm a twenty minute drive to Benchmade so easily fixed.

How do those button locks install and work, from the perspective of a home-shop knifemaker?
 
Okay, sounds good so far. One important question: Do they "wear in" like a Tri-Ad or an Axis lock, or do they "wear out?" I.e. does the fit tighten up as it wears, or does normal wear gradually loosen the fit right from the get-go?
 
They wear in. The lock part of the button is tapered. The rounded notch on the blade can be cylindrical, or have slightly tapered sides. I drill the blade and grind away the excess to make the notch. Before grinding the notch into a "C" opening, I chamfer the drilled hole. Within reason, the lock will stay tight for the life of the blade..
 
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