Puck Vs Stone?

A

Amko

Joined
Jun 15, 2017
Messages
485
Which would you use, if at all: something like the Lansky Puck or a (whet/water) stone? I was looking at getting one of these pucks since I believe it's primarily used for axes and I'm guessing it might also be used for a Khukuri.

Then again I also like something like a Japanese Waterstone eg. King KDS. Open to getting something like this. I heard good things from experienced forumites regarding Arkansas (oil)stones.

I have tried the sandpaper/mouse pad method using various grits but had not experienced much success - probably missing something.

Anyone tried the Lansky Puck? Thanks in advance.

P S Would you recommend finishing up using a leather strop after sharpening?
 
Last edited:
Amko, what are you going to do with the khuk after you get it sharpened? If you're wanting a chopper, I wouldn't waste time putting a fine edge on the blade. If you're wanting a man-killer or just going to shave the hair off your eye lids, use a strop. If you want one of the finest edges without electricity, use honing creme on your strop. For my choppers, I only use plain ol' carborundum stones about 4" long and maybe 3/4 inches wide. No sense going too fine as the blade is gonna go through Hell on wood/trees for a while. But for my Japanese wanna-be swords, I use the not really expensive water stones from the Amazonian shopping site on the internet. You will be able to slice sheets of paper effortlessly when finished.
 
Bookie, thanks for responding.
I'm looking to put a finer edge for this Khukuri (Panchthar Chitlangi) than it is currently, so I guess I'll need to choose between a strop/creme or a Japanese waterstone. I already have an 8" combination silicon carbide (carborundum?) flat stone which doesn't quite shave paper. Actually it does but not that effortlessly. Any recommendations as to which Japanese waterstone? My budget is about 40 bucks. I read good things about the King KDS which seems to fit.
 
Last edited:
King's good and there others that are well within your budget. Get you one of the combination grit stones and double the bang for your buck. Japanese water stones will break your pocket book into teeny little pieces!! Literally hundreds of dollars. Ask me. I know already....and I NEVER loan them out!!!!
 
Thanks Bookie. Will look for a good price on a King, off Amazon, probably a KDS. The KDS large comes in 1000 and 6000 grits (combo).

I'm in India - don't plan to visit Stateside this year - but someone should be visiting in a couple months. Meanwhile I saw the Lansky Puck shipped to me for USD 19 off e*b*y. May just pick it up. It just seems ideal for field use...
 
Amko said:
Bookie, thanks for responding.
I'm looking to put a finer edge for this Khukuri (Panchthar Chitlangi) than it is currently, so I guess I'll need to choose between a strop/creme or a Japanese waterstone. I already have an 8" combination silicon carbide (carborundum?) flat stone which doesn't quite shave paper. Actually it does but not that effortlessly. Any recommendations as to which Japanese waterstone? My budget is about 40 bucks. I read good things about the King KDS which seems to fit.
Click to expand...

Carborundum is actually Aluminum Oxide. It is what the Spyderco sharpmaker grey-brown and white rods are made from. It is actually the same material as saphire.
 
Lapedog, thanks. I stand corrected.

Update: the Lansky Puck is also made from aluminium oxide.

Just bought one off e*b*y.
 
Last edited:
Update: No! It's made of carborundum, I.e. silicon carbide! Just checked with the manufacturer!
 
Bookie said:
If you're wanting a man-killer or just going to shave the hair off your eye lids, use a strop. If you want one of the finest edges without electricity, use honing creme on your strop.
Click to expand...

Bookie, question: which honing creme would you use on your strop, please?

Would neatsfoot oil do?
 
King makes some nice stones but the good ones do waste away pretty fast. Thats a good trait tho in my opinion and they are the economy stones I chose for my skill level. I have some near comparable Chinese riverstones, and others that are seriously hard and go in the category of hard Arkansas stones but they are are more suited for razor sharp touch-ups and shaving and such but not Khukris. I like the stones that give away some material so you dont have to dress them as often but the downside is you have to replace them more often. Screw oil completely and i dont think ill never go there (maybe?)yet. Too much cleanup trouble for what I want. If you go stones get you a nagura stone or a broken piece of stone similar to the grit your using and dress up the stone to get a slurry started then begin your sharpening. Theres a million ways to do it so to keep it simple just get a good slurry going and NEVER use excessive pressure to get an edge. If it aint getting sharp change your medium but never increase the pressure. Imagine your blade being made of Playdough! If you push too hard your going to roll the entire edge and dull it before you sharpen it. You want a fingernail ticking edge along the entire edge length till you switch to the other side then do the same thing and repeat to finer grains till you got what you want. Best thing I could say is read many many and many peoples opinions and techniques but if you apply too much pressure in attempt to grind away material then you will never get anything out of you efforts but frustration.
Stropping a Khuk edge? I have tried it a few times but there is no such Khuk ive found that would hold that edge long enough to justify putting that much attention to it. I dont even strop my fish filet knives. If you want to shave the hair off a fish then maybe but I just dont get it otherwise?
Just my 0.00000002 satoshis!
 
Many thanks for the feedback ndog, I will take Bookie's and your advice and stick to a combination Japanese waterstone - like the King KDS 1000/6000 then - this will be for my Panchthar Chitlangi which I'd like to get a sharper edge on. This King KDS (apparently a larger size, so better from a Khukuri standpoint?) currently costs 40 bucks on that Amazonian website...

On a side note I look forward to playing around with the Lansky Puck. So this would be for field use with my M43. The Puck is shipping to me from Taiwan and should hopefully arrive in a couple weeks provided it doesn't get stuck in India Customs. At 120/280 grit, I guess the Puck is primarily for axes, hatchets and machetes, so perhaps it will touch up the edge on my M43 as well, which is my current chopper of choice on field trips, which are sadly far from frequent.
 
Last edited:
I have one of those combo stones. They are nice. The 1000 grit I use the most. I think mine is 1000/8000 but im almost worn thru the 1000 grit side. Be careful not to gouge out the fine side sharpening your khuk on it. Its real easy to do and its a pain to get it smooth again.
 
Just got my Lansky Puck! First immersed in water for a minute till air bubbles stopped. Then used both coarse and medium sides, a few circular passes over the Panchthar Chitlangi blade. Slices paper effortlessly. I like how conveniently this took the blade to the next level. This is a good addition to my bug out bag. Recommend!
 
ndoghouse said:
...I like the stones that give away some material so you dont have to dress them as often but the downside is you have to replace them more often...
Click to expand...

To save a satoshi or two you can rub 3 abrasive surfaces together in this manner to render them flat.

1 on 2; 2 on 3; 3 on 1; 2 on 1; 3 on 2; 1 on 3
Repeat above as necessary.

There is a truly wondrous proof of this, which is unfortunately too large for this margin.

ref http://www.galleyrack.com/images/ar...7-production-of-an-original-surface-plate.pdf
 
Howard, thank you for the advice.

I did scan the pdf but confess to finding the presentation a little too technical for me.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top