Put the point back on the tip

T

Tomcat_AL200

Joined
Apr 6, 2009
Messages
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Over the course of usage and poor sharpening techniques :foot: I have rounded over the last 1/64" or so of my SOG Vulcan (VG-10) and SEAL Pup Elite (AUS-8). They will still pierce alright, but I want the tips as pointed as they were from the factory. Could someone tell or show me how to do that on a Sharmaker? I do have a set of stones but I'm best with the Spyderco. Thanks!
 
At the end of your stroke.......... STOP!

Don't let the tip drag off the stone that the most common cause for rounded tips.
 
Quick and easy way, depending on how rounded it is, is to lay the spine flat on a stone (or use a file or belt grinder) right at the tip and take it down enough to get the point back.
 
With the minimal damage you have to the tip I would advise against grinding the spine.
 
I do exactly what kiahs does. Just put the cover on, lay a gray stone in the grooves on the underneath of the sharpmaker (bottom) and lay it flat and sharpen. Do it lightly, you don't want to push it and chip the tip off. You can change the tip profile if you want to by changing the angle you sharpen it in. A more rounded pointy tip will make for a sturdier tip for puncturing while keeping it flat with the spine will keep a needle tip for fine cutting.
 
Just use a stone along the spine (a bench stone works best for this though the above technique with the sharpmaker will do) and take some material off from the back of the tip in order to restore a needle-like point. :)
 
I sometimes use the slot for fish hooks on a sharpmaker rod to do what's been described above. Works pretty well in my experience.
 
Heres a video that shows a pretty good example of what they are talking about. Hope this helps.

[youtube]kSG_W5BSwcw[/youtube]
 
Well, I got the point back on the Vulcan no problem, and thanks to the video, I'll keep it that way. THANKS ALL!
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
Just curious as to why you would advise against it?

Thanks!
Click to expand...


Why make extra grind marks when you don't need them, what if your blade had a coating? With normal sharpening you can fix up to 1/8 inch of tip loss.
 
Well, I just finished my stainless steel scaled Al Mar from Ebay. The tip was blunted about an 1/8 of an inch or so. I did grind the spine being careful to keep the blade shape right. I was able to tell that if I took off too much at the blade edge, the blade would have stuck out slightly in the closed position. I guess I could have ground down the stop to ensure it closed all the way. Regardless, I am really happy of the way it turned out. I took off minimal metal, reconfigured as close to original as possible, and now I can sport an Al Mar as an EDC. I profiled it at 20 degrees on my Lansky, and man the hairs just jump off the back of my hand. I really love this Seki City steel. I had a little burr left after the white stone, so I gently stropped with Flitz, and I have nice polished edge, and great looking Al Mar lockback folder. I am one happy camper. After gently grinding the spine, I also polished it on the strop, which now looks like a factory finish. I used a grinding wheel on my drill press, and the metal never got too hot that I could not touch it. Lots of fun in the garage tonight.
 
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