Putting a good edge on a hardware store hatchet (vid)

HeavyHanded · Feb 13, 2014

Hello, have been wanting to do a video showing a good way to "fix" the issues common to most less expensive hatchets and really get them working for you other than digging out roots. I use my Washboard, but 90% of this will work with any benchstone and some compound (though maybe not as well

). Most folks might be very surprised at how well this can get them chopping the hardest wood.

Taking a quick look after uploading - the sound and video part company for a minute or two - doesn't really effect usefulness of the content. I'll try to upload it again, but most likely is a file transfer issue from my old camera, is on its last legs...

Thanks for watching!

[video=youtube;zgNNBHMed1c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgNNBHMed1c[/video]

David Martin · Feb 14, 2014

It looked to be a through job, up to your usual standard of excellence. For some reason at about 14mins. in the video movement got disconnected with the sound and never reconnected itself. The two parts running separately.? Yes, most hatchets offered in stores are very convex which will split well but challenged in much else. Even the Estwing. So, removing most of this greatly affects performance. I believe it was in the book you mentioned, the early outdoorsman preferred a hatchet over a knife and even used it to skin a buck. DM

HeavyHanded · Feb 14, 2014

The video either got corrupted while filming, or when uploaded. Either way, I deleted the original off the camera so there's no hope for it and will have to do another if I want it right. Not every day I file down a chopper and finish it off, so wouldn't be quite the same a second time. Luckily all the important stuff is there, just not as nice to watch as it might be...
Yeah, most hatchets and axes are dreadful off the rack, and need a bit of care before being useful. Interesting that these observations haven't changed in 100 odd years, but these days there are fewer folks circulating that can tell you the what and why. Most will buy a more expensive tool with a strong reputation but the biggest difference is usually stuff that can be changed once you have something that work to compare it to.

David Martin · Feb 19, 2014

HH, You inspired me with this video. So, I got my Estwing out and began taking off the convex sides. I don't know what steel they use but the file was slow going. My file being used may have been some dull.
So, I took it to my belt grinder with a 150 grit belt. Then on to a 300 grit belt to smooth out the scratches left. Now, I have mostly a flat grind hatchet. Then I took it to Norton's JUM-3 stone, the coarse side first to set the bevel and on to the fine side (220 grit) to refine the edge. Then as you showed, I wiped off this swarf and put it on my strop. A 2X4 backed leather strop, so plenty hard. After some 20 passes I tested the edge. It could slice newspaper and shave arm hair with no stubble. So, your method works. It sure looks and feels like it will cut better now. I've seen old timers skin a buck with their hatchet. Deer seasons over yet I think this hatchet could now do it. Thanks, DM

HeavyHanded · Feb 19, 2014

David Martin said:
HH, You inspired me with this video. So, I got my Estwing out and began taking off the convex sides. I don't know what steel they use but the file was slow going. My file being used may have been some dull.
So, I took it to my belt grinder with a 150 grit belt. Then on to a 300 grit belt to smooth out the scratches left. Now, I have mostly a flat grind hatchet. Then I took it to Norton's JUM-3 stone, the coarse side first to set the bevel and on to the fine side (220 grit) to refine the edge. Then as you showed, I wiped off this swarf and put it on my strop. A 2X4 backed leather strop, so plenty hard. After some 20 passes I tested the edge. It could slice newspaper and shave arm hair with no stubble. So, your method works. It sure looks and feels like it will cut better now. I've seen old timers skin a buck with their hatchet. Deer seasons over yet I think this hatchet could now do it. Thanks, DM

David, I think that Estwing might be stainless and probably run a higher RC than many. You can tell mighty quickly if the file will work or not. The mud from a SIC stone is a wonderful thing!

Not only will your hatchet bite deeper for the same effort, but is now less likely to skate out of angled cuts. It will also keep going longer even when it looses its initial keenness.

This is the text I referenced:

Axes, as they come from the factories, have a decided bevel near the edge and a new axe is of no account until it has been well ground. The proper way to grind an axe is to start well back on the blade and grind it out to the edge, or until all of the bevel has disappeared then it should be well whetted with a small smooth stone. The thickest part of the blade should be not exactly in the center, but somewhat towards the outside corner, that is the corner farthest from the axeman when the tool is in use. An axe so shaped will spring the chip nicely and will not bind in the wood.
For keeping the axe sharp when in the woods, I carry a small, flat mill file of six or eight inches in length and a small axe stone. A carborundum stone with coarse and fine sides is best for the purpose.

E Kreps, 1910

David Martin · Feb 19, 2014

Thanks. It sure works better now and it has no bevel. Still, the Estwing hatchets don't have a lot of convexing just some. Also, I checked Estwings site and they may use tool steel, perhaps A2. My hatchet will rust but not as bad as 01 steel. The blade is hard yet it responded well to Norton's crystolon stone. Taking a nice edge with 3 finger sticky. DM

Chris "Anagarika" · Feb 19, 2014

Martin,

Thanks for sharing insights. :thumbup:

What it is about leaving some part thicker (the statement 'towards the outside')? Perhaps a diagram can illustrate the point better?

Not having an axe, so can't test

HeavyHanded · Feb 20, 2014

Chris "Anagarika";13222498 said:
Martin,

Thanks for sharing insights. :thumbup:

What it is about leaving some part thicker (the statement 'towards the outside')? Perhaps a diagram can illustrate the point better?

Not having an axe, so can't test

Chris, maybe a diagram IS in order...
Am pretty sure it creates a compound wedging action that lines up better with the angle the cutting edge impacts the wood. Should also decrease the amount of static contact area if the bit buries deep in the wood and the chip fails to release.
This is the first chopper I've ground using E Kreps advice, and I haven't tested it yet.

Martin

David Martin · Feb 20, 2014

I'm not sure either what Kreps advice meant by leaving the corners thicker. When I took mine down I kept it even all across the blade. I've since split some oak kindling with my Estwing and this seems to work very well. Its now cutting aggressively, biting deeper into the log. I usually cut 3 cords of wood each winter so lots of splitting opportunities will arise. I'll be watching how this hatchet performs. DM