Putting a 'locked closed' system on an older Opinel

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Feb 23, 2012
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31
Hey guys,


I have an old Opinel #8 I got at a hiker's lodge in the Adirondacks when I was at summer camp (well over a decade ago). It is the older model, which cannot be locked closed. I used to rely on friction to keep the blade in the handle, but years of use has loosened the pivot and now the blade falls out if you tip the knife uspide down.

The other day, as I reached into my pocket to grab it, the blade was partially out and it stabbed my index finger. It was a nasty suprise.

I tried filing a notch into the bottom of the blade where the lock ring can slide into when the blade is closed. I don't have a file thin enough to get in there though. I also tried filing off part of the lock so it can close around the blade, like on the newer models, but I live in a city apartment and I don't have access to a workshop with a vice and a good file, just the file on my Swiss Army knife. For the time being I keep it wrapped in a rubber band but this is not a satisfactory solution and I want to improvise a more permanent one.

I could just get a new one for $10 or so but this knife has some sentimental value to it and I want to keep using it. Any suggestions? If I have to hit up a real workshop with real tools and files then I am willing to do that. Thanks for reading.
 
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I'd think even if you bought a new one, you should be able to swap the locking rings between them. Assuming, of course, there are no significant differences in the blade that would make it incompatible; I don't think there are, though. That might be the quickest solution for you. And, if you haven't already, you might contact Opinel directly, and ask if they could send you a newer ring for your knife. I don't know if they can, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to ask.

For a file, you could also improvise one by wrapping some silicon carbide sandpaper (wet/dry type) around the edge of your SAK file. The silicon carbide paper is aggressive enough to abrade hardened steel. Using a coarser grit, like 220 or less, should work pretty fast. You can get the sandpaper at Home Depot/Lowe's/Walmart/etc. File a notch in the locking ring, not the blade.

There have been a few posts here from at least one member who has made some adjustments to the locking ring, using a file of some sort. I think he adapted the ring to be a little more firmly locked in the open position, but it may still be useful to you. I'll hunt around a bit, and see if I can find one of his helpful posts. If I find it, I'll link it here.

A pair of snap-ring pliers is also very handy for removing & reinstalling the locking rings. Those can also be found at Home Depot/Lowe's/etc.
 
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I'd think even if you bought a new one, you should be able to swap the locking rings between them. Assuming, of course, there are no significant differences in the blade that would make it incompatible; I don't think there are, though. That might be the quickest solution for you. And, if you haven't already, you might contact Opinel directly, and ask if they could send you a newer ring for your knife. I don't know if they can, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to ask.

For a file, you could also improvise one by wrapping some silicon carbide sandpaper (wet/dry type) around the edge of your SAK file. The silicon carbide paper is aggressive enough to abrade hardened steel. Using a coarser grit, like 220 or less, should work pretty fast. You can get the sandpaper at Home Depot/Lowe's/Walmart/etc. File a notch in the locking ring, not the blade.

There have been a few posts here from at least one member who has made some adjustments to the locking ring, using a file of some sort. I think he adapted the ring to be a little more firmly locked in the open position, but it may still be useful to you. I'll hunt around a bit, and see if I can find one of his helpful posts. If I find it, I'll link it here.
I've not been able to get just a locking ring to save my life.
 
Appreciate the responses.

I was going to call Opinel and ask for just a locking ring, but it seems I won't have much luck there.

I'm going to make this a little pet project. Guess I'll be hitting up the Home depot this weekend for some silicon carbide paper. I will post pics of the process as I get around to it, hopefully someone else will find it useful.

Thanks again.
 
I would vote for visiting a reasonbly stocked shop that comes with the owner of the shop to guide you though the modification or do it for you. I have made this modification before with two cuts from a Dremel setup with a cutoff wheel then de-burr and polish if needed.
 
Appreciate the responses.

I was going to call Opinel and ask for just a locking ring, but it seems I won't have much luck there.

I'm going to make this a little pet project. Guess I'll be hitting up the Home depot this weekend for some silicon carbide paper. I will post pics of the process as I get around to it, hopefully someone else will find it useful.

Thanks again.


Below is the answer from Opinel-USA anyway...

****************************************************

David,

I am sorry to tell you that this is not possible. Opinel does not allow the retailing of spare parts.


Frederic Camboulives
Sales Manager

NeverUnder, LLC

9 Methodist Street - Suite 1A
Niantic, CT 06357
Phone: 860-451-9010
Fax: 866-674-6749
www.Opinel-USA.com
 
Yeah, I'd go this route. Just pop off the ring, and gently tap the pivot pin while it's resting on a solid surface. It won't take much to just snug it up a bit.

Carl.

I might experiment with this a bit. I have an older Opinel fillet knife (No. 09) with the same type of non-locking ring (when closed). It's also quite loose. The possible downside to squeezing the pivot now, when it's loose, is trying to loosen it up later, if/when the wood swells in the pivot, as is often the bugaboo with all wood-handled Opinels.
 
I might experiment with this a bit. I have an older Opinel fillet knife (No. 09) with the same type of non-locking ring (when closed). It's also quite loose. The possible downside to squeezing the pivot now, when it's loose, is trying to loosen it up later, if/when the wood swells in the pivot, as is often the bugaboo with all wood-handled Opinels.

It seems like when I sharpen it, the whetstone slurry gets into the pivot joint, and as I open and close the blade, the particles wear away at the wood/metal, making it looser and looser....

I have tightened the pivot as an interim solution, but I can't have it stabbing me in the fingers ever again. I'm no shop guy, but since the Opinel was my first 'learning' knife, I figure it's fitting that it will be my first shop knife.
 
Don't "squeeze" the pivot pin. Peen it. Use a small hammer and some sort of anvil. Lightly tap one side to expand the head, then do the other side. Stop before the blade gets too tight.
 
I might experiment with this a bit. I have an older Opinel fillet knife (No. 09) with the same type of non-locking ring (when closed). It's also quite loose. The possible downside to squeezing the pivot now, when it's loose, is trying to loosen it up later, if/when the wood swells in the pivot, as is often the bugaboo with all wood-handled Opinels.

The wood handle won't swell if you just grease the pivot area. I got schooled on this by a real French guy and his father, both of who carried Opinels. Use good old Vasoline jelly, or even Chapstick if you have some. Take a toothpick and smear it around in the pivot liberally. Don't forget the exposed wood end grain at the end of the knife by the rotating bolster. Then fold a paper towel up into fours, and use the corner to gently wipe out the excess Vasoline or Chapstick. This leaves a coating of waterproof grease on the wood inside the handle. I've done this to my Opinel, and it will stand up to being dropped pivot end down in a glass of water for 20 minutes submerged, and still open and close just fine. It may sound weird, but Opinels are kind of weird knives to start with. Cut great, but a real funky old time design from the 1800's.

Just peen the rivet like Bill says, and grease the joint, and all will be fine. Trust me.

Carl.
 
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