Putting a mirror finish on a blade.

Joined
Jun 16, 2004
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Any of you guys ever tried to bring out a mirror polish on a previously black coated blade? I have a Camillus Sizzle that had enough scratches on it to warrant the attempt. I used auto sandpaper-220, 400, 800, 1000, and 1500 grit, but I couldn't seem to get rid of the 'swirls' scratched into it. So I'm wondering, is it my lack of patience and materials? Or maybe it's my technique-I used light circular motions, not any harsh back-and-forth action. One other possibility that I don't know is if AUS 8 will take a high polished shine. Any insight is of course appreciated.
 
Oops, this should be in the maintenance, tinkering, and embellishment forum...my bad.
 
I think the method commonly used is to sand in one direction, then when you up the grit go in the perpendicular direction untill you can no longer see the scratches from the lower grit, and repeat all the way up through your grits. If you just swirl you wont know when you have finished sanding off the previous grit.

I hope your arms feeling good, its gona take a good long time:).
 
Have you tried using brasso as the final polishing stage?
Used to use it in my JROTC days to get my brass SHINY!
~Corey
 
Let’s see if we can find the right forum …
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i've used some metal polish material.

It's called "Metal Glo"

don't know what's really in it though..
brings my swords to mirror shine.
 
Hand sand to 600 grit satin or higher, make sure you get all the scratches from the coarser grits out. Use a buffing wheel (6 inch or bigger usually works best) loaded with green buffing compound (chromium oxide, available at most hardware stores and online woodworking/knifemaking supply shops).

Edit: Aus-8 will take a mirror finish. You can actually get a mirror finish at as low as 220 grit but it will not be top class, in order to get the 220 scratches out with the buffing compound you'll likely have ripples and uneveness in the mirror finish. Definately make sure they're not swirls though, all the scratches need to be in one direction, this A: polishes easier and B: if you do decide to just stop at a lower grit before buffing it doesn't look as hideous.

Oh, do be careful if you use a buffer, they've been known to injure many a knifemaker who was distracted for a moment. They can grab the blade and send it flying if you aren't careful. If you don't want to use a buffer then I suggest you satin finish (the right way, no swirls!) to 1000 and then once it looks good use one more piece of paper till it's worn smooth and won't cut at all, this will leave the surface almost mirror polished and a bit of hand polishing with simichrome/flitz/metalglo will get you the rest of the way. Use a sanding block to make sure the surface is being sanded perfectly flat and if the knfie is hollow ground a large pink eraser is one of the easiest ways to keep the sandpaper backed on the hollow grind.
 
Thanks for the tips, fellas. Funny, it actually makes sense to sand the blade at right angles, alternating the sandpaper each time. I just didn't think much about it. I don't have a buffer; however, I have time on my hands, so will see what becomes of it after the holiday. Oh, the pink eraser sounds like a good idea considering it is a hollow ground blade. (And short, to boot.)
 
I'd say first do 220 again. Do it for as long as you think you should sand it, take a break, then continue sanding it with 220 for a really, really long time. Once you're done, go get some more 220, and finish it off with strong clean straight full length strokes of fresh 220. Then let it sit for a few days, and look at it closely to see if you can see any scratches at all that don't belong. If you can't see any continue with the next finer grit. If at any time you see scratches that do not belong, start over. This is why most of my refinish jobs are 400 grit!

Really, if you're interested, there is some really good info here and elsewhere on how different folks finish or refinish knives. Search on bladeforums.com for refinishing or check out Don Fogg's site.
 
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