Putting a V edge on convex ground knife? (Bravo necker)

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Oct 23, 2010
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I want to get a bravo necker in 3V, and I noticed that it is convex ground like all of their knives. I am not good at convex edges at all, tried it and sucked at it. I have a video on my YT channel to prove how bad I was, haha.

So, how well does a V edge on a convex ground knife work? Stupid idea, or will it be fine? Thanks guys.
 
the knives i used to make when i first started were all convex grinds with a convex edge. nobody knew how to sharpen a convex edge so i was putting a v edge on them. it wont make any difference so go for it.
 
...however it really is worth it to simply learn how to do it and reap the benefits over a V-edge.
 
...however it really is worth it to simply learn how to do it and reap the benefits over a V-edge.

Thanks Richard!

Also, I know how to do it, but the convex edge I can get with sandpaper and strop isn't even close to the sharpness that I can get on a V edge. Not even in the same realm.
 
You can always put a 'V' microbevel on it, leaving most of the upper part of the the grind as is. I think some manufacturers of convex blades do this anyway. Something like a Sharpmaker can make pretty quick work of that. In the last couple of days, I've been using my Sharpmaker to touch up the edges on several knives, including a couple of Buck 112 folders that I'd convexed a while back. Just made some VERY light passes on the ceramic, to put just a hint of microbevel on them. Worked great. I used the 40° setting on all but one knife, which I'd previously thinned quite a bit. I used the 30° side on that one.

I would still encourage you to keep practicing convexing in the meantime, though. I've really noticed a difference in how it performs.
 
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My take is that it would be a pity to modify a convex edge to a regular V edge.

I just posted this in another thread - I'll just paste the relevant part here:

I had an old thread that discussed convex edges -

Convexed Edge (link)

EdgeBevel.jpg


It's fairly easy to see the common single bevel - although can be sharp at the actual edge - presents a hard discontinuous shoulder at the face, so it's more resistance when cutting through.

More sophisticated sharpening sometimes sets a secondary or transition bevel - this improves things - one can obviously do more transition/intermediate bevels to improve the cutting through ability -

but ultimately with enough transition angles/bevels one basically ends up with a convex edge.

I'm no a purist - but have honed freehand for years using a fine EZE lap diamond hone which removes metal pretty quickly and does not leave too coarse a finish - I then use a loaded leather strop (I think it's jeweler's rouge - but it looks like a piece of white chalk). But because I realize I am not consistent - I then actually use a 22.5deg V-hone round crock stick very lightly to set my final edge -
- then in idle moments I strop on a piece of cardboard -

this was a piece handed out by Ken Warner (editor of Knives 'xx for years)
cardboardStrop.gif


There is also now an affordable belt grinder knife sharpener that can easily put a convex edge on almost any knife - please see:

:thumbup: Review - Work Sharp (belt grinder) Knife Sharpener (link)

Hope that helps

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cts, get with me sometime and i'll talk you through my method of hand convexing that you should be able to do. i taught another member how to do it and he did several knives himself and had good luck. get a set of the paper wheels and use the slotted wheel to maintain the convex edge. i would stay away from the mini belt sanders. i have had to repair quite a few knives messed up by them.
 
cts, get with me sometime and i'll talk you through my method of hand convexing that you should be able to do. i taught another member how to do it and he did several knives himself and had good luck. get a set of the paper wheels and use the slotted wheel to maintain the convex edge. i would stay away from the mini belt sanders. i have had to repair quite a few knives messed up by them.

Thanks everyone. I will give it another go.

Richard, I feel like an asshole for never being able to answer your calls. Weekends are best, I'm in class all day every day during the week. I only get very short breaks throughout the day. I will definitely give it another go, just need to refine my technique.
 
get with me this weekend. i'll fix up my hand convexing setup and see if a buddy will operate the camera for me sometime this week. leave the edge alone for now.

i sent you an email with some pictures of another hand convexing setup i have that might help. follow the directions in the email and make you a setup like i described and give it a try.
 
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My Bravo Necker 2 came with a pooched bevel on one side of the blade (looked like someone rolled the edge on the belt sander at a lower grit and never quite made it back to the apex on subsequent finishing passes). I put a V edge on it no problem. After a week or so I went back and convexed it. You can do it either way. It does cut better configured as a convex.
 
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