Pyroceram questions....

T

Trick

Joined
Mar 3, 2001
Messages
351
Few questions about the stuff. I know I want one and hopefully can get one ordered today.

Does anyone know if it would be of any benefit to fan out some wires with a long lead and place in between the liner and the platen before it is epoxied, then run it to a ground somewhere?

If the table and platen are both precision ground steel and perfectly flat, obviously the platen would eventually become out of shape from use. Main reason for liner in first place. Ok, so the table would probably get some wear over time but obviously much less than the platen. Would there be any benefit to having a pyroceram piece cut to attach to the table or a waste of money? I could see how it might be nice to have a known perfectly flat surface for squaring up with the platen. But I could also see having the belt knock a heavy piece of steel on the table hard and break it. Thoughts? Just leave it be the way it is?
Thanks!
Ric
 
I don't know about the wire idea, but they need something. Mike Fitzgerald suggested putting a pin at the bottom of the pyroceram, sunk into the platen. Like a ledge. It could possibly provide a way for static to bleed to ground. BTW, I have only noticed the static problem when the humidity is real low.
Don't forget to round off the ends of the pyroceram to ease the belts way. Do it with a 220 grit belt, and finish it with a 400+. You are just rounding the top, and bottom corners.
The toolrest(table) does not take near the abuse that the bare platen does. It will stay flat for ages. If it does wear a bit, just face it off on a disc, or mill. I wouldn't put pyroceram on it. I only use mine for profiling, and an odd job now and then, and it is still in great shape after 20 years.
 
Thanks Mike! I appreciate it. I will stick with the table the way it is. I did get the platen liner ordered though. :D Glad you told me about rounding off the corners, I would have never known.
 
Is pyroceramic the same stuff thats used on wood stove doors and on the inner most glass of cooking ovens. If so I went the junk yard disassembled the glass broght it home and tried to cut it, first with a glass wheel, no luck there, next a carbide scribe, a shallow sratch but not deep enough to make it snap. So I ran too my dads, well drove, and borrowed his mini diamont table saw that worked. I cemented the unknown glass to the platen with JB weld, I heard somewhere it had metal dust in it(is that true? ) at any rate I ve used the unknown glass for a week, No static discharge....Weird. So is my glass pyro ceramic? And does jB weld contain metal dust? Thanks..
 
I understand that it is the stuff used on woodstoves. I can't say about the cooking oven, but it is highly probable.
JB Weld in non conductive, even though it has metallic particles in it.
 
I've heard some comment about the static, but personaly I notice no difference. In the winter I get zapped hard, glass or no. I'm not just saying this because I sell it. With glass or without I just use the heel of my hand to smack the frame every few passes to keep the spark to a minimum. I have a large wood furnace about 3ft. from my grinder so humidity is usually way low...hosing the floor helps considerably to add humidity, or even running a load through the clothes dryer in the nearby washroom.
 
You can over avoid some of the static electricity by spraying the moving belt with anti static stuff for clothes. Frank
 
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