Q: How to Apply Super Glue (Cyanoacrylic)

S

Scott Free

Joined
Sep 15, 1999
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3,319
In another thead, I was adviced to use cyanoacrylic/super glue to protect bone knife scales. Rather than drag out the old thread, I thought it would be better to ask my next question here.

When I've used super glue in the past, I've just used a little dot of the stuff to hold something together. I've never used bigger quantities of it. How do you apply the super glue to the scales. Do you just glop it on and then spread it around quickly with a little wooden stick? Also, my local dollar store has four biggish tubes for a buck. Any reason not to use it?
 
I just spread it around with a stick but there may be more ways. The stuff takes quite a while to dry unless it gets sprayed with the accelerator or is a small dab with the lack of air. Chuck Bybee from www.alphaknifesupply.com sells the new odorless and the accelerator spray. The cool thing is the new odorless dries clear instead of cloudy like the original stuff when sprayed.
 
It's a cheap little dispo brush for spreading flux. Rolled tincan handle and perhaps 1/2x1/2" of bristles. I'd check for them in the plumbing section of a Lowes, where they sell the solder and flux for sweating copper pipe. The other place to look would be around the soldering irons and torches in the tool section.

Cheap artist brush would probably work just as well.
 
I have found that the easiest way to spread it around is to use my finger. It will build up like a big scab or something but cleans off easily with acetone. But since it is not good to subject yourself to the effects of acetone i put a clear plastic bag over my finger. the super glue won't stick to the bag and you can get a nice even finish with this method.
 
Scott, I'm guessing from your question, you are bit new at this. Before you go putting superglue on some bone scales on a knife you like, I'd really suggest you do a practice run first on something. You can get a cow bone from walmart in the pet department to practice on. The first time you do a super glue finish generally isn't a postive experience and I'd to see you wreck a knife you care for.
 
Several things - First,DON'T use your finger.Cyanoacrylic resin has an exothermic reaction with its catalyst agent (water).It may burn the heck out of your finger if you try to spread it that way(it can melt rubber gloves and glue the whole mess to your finger,all the while burning you).Second,the cheap,thin stuff at the dollar store works fine for stabilizing.Third,accelerator is fine on some things,but may make the super glue heat up and turn cloudy.This probably wouldn't be a problem on bone.I always test any finishing technique on some scrap or practice pieces to learn how it does.
 
There are some very thin varieties of super glue. Some about as thin as water. Better penetration which fills in those tiny areas. No problem spreading it around. Dries fast so an accelerator shouldn't be necessary. No concerns with holding ability.
 
I use it on micarta often. To spead things up a little and help make both micarta scales equal, especially where I might grind the curve at their front end, I'll super glue them together. After shaping I simply place a knife edge between the two pieces and a little rap with a hammer on the knife spine breaks the two scales apart. Does not work well with woods and some other materials since the final goal is to seperate without damage :eek:.

RL
 
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